# 32amp weres it should be 16amp

#### Deathbyfridgefreezer

Joined Mar 29, 2022
3
Could the electricians in science community explain to me how a 32 amp fuse on a circuit board which my fridge freezer is plugged into is safer than a a 16 amp fuse have I got it wrong the fuse rating is safe if because the dump from on the Neutral from 32 amps into the cleaner system doesn't mean that the Earth system is charged at 32amp does it

Joined Jul 18, 2013
25,212
Not really clear what your issue is?
What is the 'circuit board' ?
Your domestic fridge freezer should not normally require a 32amp fuse?, If it is wired for 15a and the breaker is 15a then you should have protection?
The Earth GND normally does not carry current, only in the event of a fault.

#### ThePanMan

Joined Mar 13, 2020
367
Welcome to AAC.

Where did you get "32A" from? Is that what's on the board? That IS possible. If you have a 240V 16A service and somewhere in the system the voltage is transformed from 240VAC to 120VAC then yes, 32A would be reasonable. However, without clear information we're just going to be guessing. And when it comes to safety devices NEVER TRUST A "GUESS".

The reason why I say 120V 32A is the same as 240V 16A is wattage. Actually when discussing power in terms of AC circuits and power - VA is the correct term. In DC it's Watts.

240V x 16A = 3840VA
120V x 32A = 3840VA

The power is the same, just using different voltage and amperage.

#### Suncalc

Joined Mar 23, 2021
5
First it is important to realize that the amperage rating of a fuse is simply the maximum continuous current rating of the fuse. It is not an indication of how the fuse will act in situations where this rating is exceeded. Fuses are rated by their (I^2)*t value (literally current squared times time). It defines a curve of time vs. current. This tells you how fast a fuse will open when you exceed the continuous current rating. The terms "slow blow" or "fast acting" are just rough groupings and not specific characterizations. Likewise, the voltage rating of the fuse is the maximum voltage rating for which the fuse will extinguish the flash over when it blows. Exceeding this voltage risks the formation of a conductive plasma within the fuse which will interfere with how it opens the circuit.

See the document located here for more complete information on fuse ratings: https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/.../littelfuse_fuseology_selection_guide.pdf.pdf

Now in your particular situation, I am assuming that there is a circuit board in your appliance with an on-board fuse. And that this fuse has the ratings printed on it of "32A @ 250V". It is not a good idea to try and equate this to power. That's not what the numbers mean as I explained above. The fuse is placed upon the board to handle a specific fault condition under which excessive current might be drawn. Unless you have more information about the fault condition and the OEM fuse specification, the fuse should only be replaced with the same OEM P/N. If the fuse has blown, that means that a fault condition exists on the board and that fault condition must be cleared (i.e. repaired) before replacing the fuse and putting the board back into service.

Joined Jul 18, 2013
25,212
What function or section of the fridge-freezer does the fused circuit operate?
Any conductors connected to such a fuse have to be able to carry this current, as per code.

#### Deathbyfridgefreezer

Joined Mar 29, 2022
3
That should reafuse boardd

Not really clear what your issue is?

What is the 'circuit board' ?

Your domestic fridge freezer should not normally require a 32amp fuse?, If it is wired for 15a and the breaker is 15a then you should have protection?

The Earth GND normally does not carry current, only in the event of a fault.Sorry

#### Deathbyfridgefreezer

Joined Mar 29, 2022
3
First it is important to realize that the amperage rating of a fuse is simply the maximum continuous current rating of the fuse. It is not an indication of how the fuse will act in situations where this rating is exceeded. Fuses are rated by their (I^2)*t value (literally current squared times time). It defines a curve of time vs. current. This tells you how fast a fuse will open when you exceed the continuous current rating. The terms "slow blow" or "fast acting" are just rough groupings and not specific characterizations. Likewise, the voltage rating of the fuse is the maximum voltage rating for which the fuse will extinguish the flash over when it blows. Exceeding this voltage risks the formation of a conductive plasma within the fuse which will interfere with how it opens the circuit.

See the document located here for more complete information on fuse ratings: https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/.../littelfuse_fuseology_selection_guide.pdf.pdf

Now in your particular situation, I am assuming that there is a circuit board in your appliance with an on-board fuse. And that this fuse has the ratings printed on it of "32A @ 250V". It is not a good idea to try and equate this to power. That's not what the numbers mean as I explained above. The fuse is placed upon the board to handle a specific fault condition under which excessive current might be drawn. Unless you have more information about the fault condition and the OEM fuse specification, the fuse should only be replaced with the same OEM P/N. If the fuse has blown, that means that a fault condition exists on the board and that fault condition must be cleared (i.e. repaired) before replacing the fuse andfuse board putting the board back into service.