Nobody's angry,
it's just that You don't seem to be interested in benefiting from multiple, very experienced sources,
who are all basically telling You the same thing.

You seem to have had your mind made-up before you posted a question here.

Oh-well .........
You are certainly free to do as You please,
but it can sometimes be frustrating to attempt to help someone,
who then completely ignores that help.
Like I said, Oh-well .........
I certainly won't be wasting any more time in this Thread.
.
.
.

I am not really thinking the system will short out on me as is. It has been ok since 1970. But now that I have a 300 amp fuse, I want to try it.
If it does not work, I am out the $14 for a fuse, if it does work, then the starter wires are protected. If not, I can certainly find another purpose for the fuse holder.
I am waiting for a double battery box to put the two 6vdc golf cart house batteries in and I need to rework the battery tray before putting in the ANF fuse.

The starter battery box is much longer, about 3 inches than the battery, so since ABYC has a 7 inch rule which many people ignore of the fuse having to be less than 7 inches from the battery terminal (or you can sheath the wire for (40 inchs ), I am going to slide battery box all the way back and put a wood block in front of battery and mount fuse block to that. Then run a copper bar to the fuse holder.

ABYC has many rules that my boat would flunk, their rules keep changing and my boat is still floating. Honestly it is about hopeless endeavor to keep up with, for my boat you would have to completely start over. So as time has allowed me, I do common sense things. Like I changed my square D breakers to GFCI - AFCI combo breakers, which gives seriously good protection, but of course none of that is good enough for ABYC, they would reject the Square D old box completely even though I have no shared neutral buss bar in it. it is not a 'marine electric box', but it came with the boat and it works fine and has for decades.
Other examples are soldered and crimped connectors not marine rated, non tinned electrical wires, just about every wire in the boat was not tin coated when made. Coarser wire stranding more of an automotive grade versus super fine stranding, they dont like anything but super fine strand tin coated marine wires such as made by Ancor.

And anytime someone says, they are done with me, that sounds like either disgust or anger or both, just because I did not do it their way, or totally agree with them, definitely unnecessary emotions coming out.

 

This is part of a discussion, are you angry?

And anytime someone says, they are done with me, that sounds like either disgust or anger or both, just because I did not do it their way, or totally agree with them, definitely unnecessary emotions coming out.

I am not angry with you, kind of disappointed with myself though. you are well known for doing stuff like this on this forum. Post a question and refuse to listen to the answers. So I should have known better than to engage in trying to help, help some one that doesn't want the help. A troll will always troll.

 

I am not angry with you, kind of disappointed with myself though. you are well known for doing stuff like this on this forum. Post a question and refuse to listen to the answers. So I should have known better than to engage in trying to help, help some one that doesn't want the help. A troll will always troll.

"Well known troll on these forums"
I hardly ever post on these forums
Maybe you're the troll.

Who is Nigel Calder? He wants every one's marine starter wiring fused, says no excuse to not do that, so Nigel Calder is a troll too.
Meet the Guru of Sailing Systems | Cruising World
Nigel Calder is a well-known onboard-systems specialist, marine author and cruising family man. We visited him at his Maine home to find out how he balances his business with time for cruising

I better warn him not to post here.
Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual: How to Maintain, Repair, and Improve Your Boat's Essential Systems: Calder, Nigel, Calder Nigel: 9780071432382: Amazon.com: Books

Anyone of a different opinion is a troll. Burn all witches. If someone does not agree with you and submit, go on the attack. defend the dogma.
I wont respond here again until after I have the start battery fused and some time goes by on what happens. Then I will post what happened and if it is still working a cranking video.

 

Maybe you're the troll.

You caught me, my picture.

 

Updating with a video of it cranking on the 300 amp fuse.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gU9bhMx3ubQ5Yybq6
Worked fine, fuse does not get warm at all. I test cranked it multiple times.
ALL you want to protect on a start bank is start wires from a dead short, not temporary wire overloading.


Link to album of related rework of battery banks and box.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VfXSFDv7jDpos1KV6

Link to a neat video of even a 300 amp fuse protecting a lithium battery bank against a dead sort with only 8 gauge wires
Marine Rated Battery Fuse Trip - YouTube

OK, I am done with the thread. Bye.