What about my dream




Naah I was going to buy a new one any way ... But the hydrometer doesn't say its have to be replaced ? ... Anyway I guess you are right because we used the same logic with cell phones batteries (Y) (Y).

Thank you very much for the great info ... and thank's everyone for all useful information. I really learnt a lot today .


Greetings ... My best wishes ... Have a great day (or night)

and be prepared for my next questions ...

Thanks ...

<3 <3 :* :*

 

For your infromation ... guys ... on that side of the battery which is bulged ... When I press it a gas comes out of two holes on the upper side of the battery. The gas have a rotten eggs smell as I feel (H2S I guess) ... The weird thing is that after I pressed it for many times and all the gas came out .. the hydrometer tuned to yellow ... as it was tottaly black ... I felt that liquid fell down so the hydro appears.

Another thing I did as what you said guys ... I removed the whole circuit and used only trans. rectifier and capacitor .. now the flowing ampere is 0.41

Since the circuit is here .. the dead battery ... so I thought to give it a shoot

Now I'm thinking to build the desulfater circuit .. Heard of it ??

Youtube it it's to remove sulfate from the dead batteries ...

and guess what I'm going to try that dead battery again ..

Thank you all very much and I will update you if anything new happens <3 <3

 

For your infromation ... guys ... on that side of the battery which is bulged ... When I press it a gas comes out of two holes on the upper side of the battery. The gas have a rotten eggs smell as I feel (H2S I guess) ... The weird thing is that after I pressed it for many times and all the gas came out .. the hydrometer tuned to yellow ... as it was tottaly black ... I felt that liquid fell down so the hydro appears.

Another thing I did as what you said guys ... I removed the whole circuit and used only trans. rectifier and capacitor .. now the flowing ampere is 0.41

Since the circuit is here .. the dead battery ... so I thought to give it a shoot

Now I'm thinking to build the desulfater circuit .. Heard of it ??

Youtube it it's to remove sulfate from the dead batteries ...

and guess what I'm going to try that dead battery again ..

Thank you all very much and I will update you if anything new happens <3 <3

I check out a desulfator a while ago but found out there is no real solid design and if they really work is unknown ..But personal I would just buy one from a quality name because I would hate to see someone build a charger or desulfater and it burns down the house or exploded in your face ... Also remember the desulfater takes time to work on the battery...

Here is a Thread I started a while ago
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=84381&page=2

 

Just to make sure it's the low voltage from the transformer you can remove the single 6A$ diode. The current should go up, but of course no reverse battery protection. If that helps you can parallel up the 4700 Ufd. cap. If your really close now you can get a schottky diode bridge.

 

I check out a desulfator a while ago but found out there is no real solid design and if they really work is unknown ..But personal I would just buy one from a quality name because I would hate to see someone build a charger or desulfater and it burns down the house or exploded in your face ... Also remember the desulfater takes time to work on the battery...

Here is a Thread I started a while ago
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=84381&page=2

Yes you are so much right ... after a long time of trying and thinking .. I guess I will finally give up and choose the easier way

Thank you very much for your help and concern ... <3 <3 <3

 

Just to make sure it's the low voltage from the transformer you can remove the single 6A$ diode. The current should go up, but of course no reverse battery protection. If that helps you can parallel up the 4700 Ufd. cap. If your really close now you can get a schottky diode bridge.

The current went up (few milli amps) when I bypassed that diode ... So from what you said I realize now they put it for the reverse connection protection ...

Thank you for your help man .. <3 <3

 

... they put it for the reverse connection protection ...

It's in the wrong place for that function. It can't do anything that the rectifier doesn't already do. You could move it to near the battery connection, and there it could indeed offer some protection.

The one thing that diode does where it is, is to prevent the battery from lighting the red LED if the transformer is not plugged in. That red LED will only light when the transformer and rectifier are working. So the diode has some small value.

 

It's in the wrong place for that function. It can't do anything that the rectifier doesn't already do. You could move it to near the battery connection, and there it could indeed offer some protection.

The one thing that diode does where it is, is to prevent the battery from lighting the red LED if the transformer is not plugged in. That red LED will only light when the transformer and rectifier are working. So the diode has some small value.

Thank you man for a great helpful information (Y) ... <3 <3

 

Hi, I've been reading your thread and I hate to say it but I think you are chasing a couple of dead horses. The first one being the battery. I know that battery very well. The hydrometer you speak of only resides in one cell out of six and is more a marketing tool than an actual indication of the battery's overall health. That one cell may be good and you may have one bad cell elsewhere with no indicator. A green indicator means the battery is 65% charged or better. A dark cell means it is discharged and needs to be charged. A clear cell indicates electrolyte is below the minimum level and in all likelyhood, the battery needs to be replaced. Secondly, the rotten egg smell you are experinecing usually comes from shorted cells or overcharged batteries, which would also explain a low level. Thirdly, if that battery is over five years old (average lifespan of car battery) the battery is on it's last legs anyways. Have you had this battery "load tested"? What is the open circuit voltage of it? (+ and - of your voltmeter to the battery)
If the battery is older, there is a good chance the plates are sulphated(I can explain that in detail if you like later)
As for the second dead horse, as was said earlier, you need a push of at least 13.8 volts and a minimum of around 2 amps to even slow charge this battery to a point where it is done in a couple of days. If it is sulphated, this is the best charge rate for that battery as slow charging tends to remove sulphation by breaking it down slowly. I feel your transformer is a little on the weak side and it would take probably about ten days at the rate you are charging to even notice it. There are better schematics out there for battery chargers and if you just want to build something, I would find a better schematic before you waste any more time.
I hope this helps you out a bit and I totally understand this project as I am an automotive/truck and coach Professor with some electronic background. In that sense, the guys that have been helping you here have a much better understanding. I only know enough to get me into trouble.

 

Hi, I've been reading your thread and I hate to say it but I think you are chasing a couple of dead horses. The first one being the battery. I know that battery very well. The hydrometer you speak of only resides in one cell out of six and is more a marketing tool than an actual indication of the battery's overall health. That one cell may be good and you may have one bad cell elsewhere with no indicator. A green indicator means the battery is 65% charged or better. A dark cell means it is discharged and needs to be charged. A clear cell indicates electrolyte is below the minimum level and in all likelyhood, the battery needs to be replaced. Secondly, the rotten egg smell you are experiencing usually comes from shorted cells or overcharged batteries, which would also explain a low level.

First of all I would like to thank you very much for all that really helpful information. I finally after all those experiments and discussions realized that I'm moving in a wrong way, but still although I spent actually some money, time and efforts in this issue but I have learnt a lot and met some awesome guys here in the forum, and this is enough for me . At least next time when my or somebodies battery dies I will know what to do right away.

Thirdly, if that battery is over five years old (average lifespan of car battery) the battery is on it's last legs anyways.

To be honest I got the car just few months ago, so I don't really know how long it have been there.

Have you had this battery "load tested"? What is the open circuit voltage of it? (+ and - of your voltmeter to the battery)

Umm what is the load test means ? you mean like testing it with a load and see it's voltage ? ... well I wanted to see the voltage while cranking as some guys advised me to do so but I live in the 6th floor and I forgot to take the DMM with me last time I think yesterday. The radio of the car works, lights (low brightness) works ... And the speedmeter .. etc also light up but it doesn't start .. Actually there is no voice for the starting motor at all like nothing is there.

About the voltage .. before I tries to charge it it was like 11.4 V but after all the experiments and yesterday when I went to test it in the car it was about 12.9 V or around that. I noticed something weird yesterday, when I first put it nothing was on at all even the radio and the clock only the voice of the key contact (alarm) was beeping. But after some tries putting in and removing out the key then the radio worked and the clock .. in lights and so on .. I mean how come will the power increases that way ? or I guess because the battery is totally messed so it do this weird stuff

If the battery is older, there is a good chance the plates are sulphated(I can explain that in detail if you like later)

Whenever you have time sir please .. go ahead

>>> to be continued

 

As for the second dead horse, as was said earlier, you need a push of at least 13.8 volts and a minimum of around 2 amps to even slow charge this battery to a point where it is done in a couple of days. If it is sulphated, this is the best charge rate for that battery as slow charging tends to remove sulphation by breaking it down slowly. I feel your transformer is a little on the weak side and it would take probably about ten days at the rate you are charging to even notice it. There are better schematics out there for battery chargers and if you just want to build something, I would find a better schematic before you waste any more time.

Yes you are so right what made me think about posting the thread in first place the charging rate as with simple calculations and from the battery data if it needed to be fully charged from zero power to full at this rate ... wow .. I would have grand children and still waiting it to charge ... The transformer thing I think everybody agrees on it, but also to be honest the transformer is not the cheapest piece in the circuit that's the first thing .. also there is no car I can go anywhere anymore so I have to wait for somebody to take me and etc .. that's another problem. About the schematics I saw many of them but never know which is good and guaranteed to work. I choose the more recent one's and maybe the more colorful . Any way now I have more components that is common in most circuits maybe if I found more guaranteed circuit I will not be hesitated to build it .. If you have some better schematics I will appreciate sharing it with me ... (some guys here suggested some schematics on here you may look at them)

I hope this helps you out a bit and I totally understand this project as I am an automotive/truck and coach Professor with some electronic background. In that sense, the guys that have been helping you here have a much better understanding. I only know enough to get me into trouble.

Nice to meet you sir and nice to have this discussion with you like I said I appreciate this more than the main problem it self, because sooner or later the problem will be solved .. easy way or hard way .. but at lease I had the chance to meet such awesome helpful people

Thank you <3 <3 <3

 

Hi Hesham, First of all you are not the only getting educated by this post or this forum and that is the beauty of Forums, to share knowledge. I get educated every day and am thankful for the people who try to help. So going forward with your problem you have to remember there are three parts to any electrical equation, volts(pressure), amps(flow) and ohms(resistance). You have mainly been dealing with voltage. The battery may show 11.4V or 12.9V or anything in between, but it may not have the ability to actually do the work being asked of it. A radio, speedometer cluster, small lights etc require very little amperage in comparison with a starter motor. We may be talking about 10 amps in comparison to 150-200 amps to crank an engine over. So in comparison, it is like taking a weak 90 year old man and asking him to carry a sandbag up a hill. Taking the same sandbag and give it to a young healthy strong guy/girl and its no problem. I fear your battery is the first of these two scenarios but to find out, we move on to the load test.
The first thing is to test the battery open circuit voltage which is basically what you are doing now. The minimum it can be to do a load test is 12.4 Volts. Once you have that, you place a carbon pile load test across the battery and load it down for 15 seconds at 1/2 CCA. I believe yours is around 350 CCA so you would perform this at 175 Amps. After 15 seconds, your battery should be no lower than about 9.6 Volts at 70 degrees F. If lower, it fails.
If you do not have a load tester, you can use your cars starter. Crank the engine for 15 seconds while monitoring the voltage. At 15 seconds, you need the same result.
This thread may get removed because now we are talking about actual car issues but I hope the moderators will allow you to see this through.
If your car is a no crank, this becomes another issue.
Good luck

I want to point out that only trained personnel should perform a load test on a battery using proper equipment and procedures because of the gaseous and explosive nature of a lead-acid battery. If you are using the vehicle starter to perform this function, you should pay close attention to the battery, starter and wiring for signs of overheating during cranking. Failure to follow the above instructions may result in damage to the vehicle and injury or even death to the person(s) attempting to perform the procedures stated above.

 

Hi Hesham, First of all you are not the only getting educated by this post or this forum and that is the beauty of Forums, to share knowledge. I get educated every day and am thankful for the people who try to help. So going forward with your problem you have to remember there are three parts to any electrical equation, volts(pressure), amps(flow) and ohms(resistance). You have mainly been dealing with voltage. The battery may show 11.4V or 12.9V or anything in between, but it may not have the ability to actually do the work being asked of it. A radio, speedometer cluster, small lights etc require very little amperage in comparison with a starter motor. We may be talking about 10 amps in comparison to 150-200 amps to crank an engine over. So in comparison, it is like taking a weak 90 year old man and asking him to carry a sandbag up a hill. Taking the same sandbag and give it to a young healthy strong guy/girl and its no problem. I fear your battery is the first of these two scenarios but to find out, we move on to the load test.
The first thing is to test the battery open circuit voltage which is basically what you are doing now. The minimum it can be to do a load test is 12.4 Volts. Once you have that, you place a carbon pile load test across the battery and load it down for 15 seconds at 1/2 CCA. I believe yours is around 350 CCA so you would perform this at 175 Amps. After 15 seconds, your battery should be no lower than about 9.6 Volts at 70 degrees F. If lower, it fails.
If you do not have a load tester, you can use your cars starter. Crank the engine for 15 seconds while monitoring the voltage. At 15 seconds, you need the same result.
This thread may get removed because now we are talking about actual car issues but I hope the moderators will allow you to see this through.
If your car is a no crank, this becomes another issue.
Good luck

Ummmm I will do this yes by god willing maybe tomorrow or after ... I think I need some one with me .... as soon as I do this I will come and tell you ...


again Thank you very much for all the useful information and help <3 <3 <3