I have a new 80amp, 120v stick welder, using 3/32 6011 electrodes and it is having trouble maintaining an arc. It is very erratic which obviously results in bad welds. I am curious if the issue is a bad machine or if something is wrong with the electrical in my garage that would cause this.

It plugs into a 15a outlet on a 20a circuit which also serves the garage lights and door opener. After taking the outlet off, i believe it also has an open neutral. The outlet still works and powers other devices. Would any of this result in low power to my welding machine?

 

ALL Welders need a dedicated Circuit, no exceptions.
Wire-Length, and Wire-Gauge, will also have a substantial effect on Welder performance.
Premium-Quality, Inverter-type Welders, may cover-up this situation to some degree, but not always.
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Which settings does this happen on? All? Try the lowest setting on a small test coupon and post a picture.

Also, you said the 80amp welder is plugged into a 20amp socket, am I reading this correctly? If this is the case, you only have 25% of the amperage you need. You might be able to do some welds that's only if the work-piece gets hot enough for welding to occur at the lower current. My guess is it's cutting in and out because of internal current limiting designed to not throw the breaker.

 

An "old-school" type Welder is a large Step-Down-Transformer with built-in Current-Regulation of some sort.
The Output-Voltage may be quite low, ( ~20 to ~50-Volts or so ).

A "Flux-Core" Wire-Welder is probably a better choice for a beginner.

"Stick-Welding" has almost become a specialized "niche" for specific types of welding-jobs.
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An "old-school" type Welder is a large Step-Down-Transformer with built-in Current-Regulation of some sort.
The Output-Voltage may be quite low, ( ~20 to ~50-Volts or so ).

A "Flux-Core" Wire-Welder is probably a better choice for a beginner.

"Stick-Welding" has almost become a specialized "niche" for specific types of welding-jobs.
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At my job we have pipe fitters and iron workers that use stick welding all the time, it’s useful because you can do it in the field rather than just in the shop.

 

Which settings does this happen on? All? Try the lowest setting on a small test coupon and post a picture.

Also, you said the 80amp welder is plugged into a 20amp socket, am I reading this correctly? If this is the case, you only have 25% of the amperage you need. You might be able to do some welds that's only if the work-piece gets hot enough for welding to occur at the lower current. My guess is it's cutting in and out because of internal current limiting designed to not throw the breaker.

It happens on all settings, from 40 to 80 amps. And is that how the amperage thing works? This welder’s manual says it needs a 20amp circuit…

it’s currently on a 20amp circuit but a 15amp outlet.

 

The Outlet being rated for 15-Amps is only significant in that you may actually melt the Outlet.
20-Amp-rated-Outlets have MUCH more Heavy-Duty-Construction
than a Standard-15-Amp-rated-Outlet,
which are usually really cheap garbage, barely adequate for a Table-Lamp.

The big question is ...........
did someone just swap-in a larger Circuit-Breaker on 15-Amp Circuit wiring,
meaning that the wire is actually only 14-Gauge, which is definitely not adequate when pulling 20-Amps,
especially if there is a long Wire-Run from the Electrical-Panel to the Outlet,
and especially, if there are multiple other Devices installed on the same, under-sized, Wire-Run.

Like I said earlier, a Welder must have it's own "Dedicated-Outlet",
and, at the very least, 12-Gauge-Wiring, ( 10-Gauge would be better ).

12-Gauge wiring is the minimum Wire-size required when using a 20-Amp-Circuit-Breaker.

Until these things are established, there is nothing wrong with the Welder.

And, please don't say that You are using an Extension-Cord between the Outlet and the Welder,
that would make this post a classic, breaking all the rules at once.

A Welder is a very serious Electrical-Load, it must be treated as such.
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The Outlet being rated for 15-Amps is only significant in that you may actually melt the Outlet.
20-Amp-rated-Outlets have MUCH more Heavy-Duty-Construction
than a Standard-15-Amp-rated-Outlet,
which are usually really cheap garbage, barely adequate for a Table-Lamp.

The big question is ...........
did someone just swap-in a larger Circuit-Breaker on 15-Amp Circuit wiring,
meaning that the wire is actually only 14-Gauge, which is definitely not adequate when pulling 20-Amps,
especially if there is a long Wire-Run from the Electrical-Panel to the Outlet,
and especially, if there are multiple other Devices installed on the same, under-sized, Wire-Run.

Like I said earlier, a Welder must have it's own "Dedicated-Outlet",
and, at the very least, 12-Gauge-Wiring, ( 10-Gauge would be better ).

12-Gauge wiring is the minimum Wire-size required when using a 20-Amp-Circuit-Breaker.

Until these things are established, there is nothing wrong with the Welder.

And, please don't say that You are using an Extension-Cord between the Outlet and the Welder,
that would make this post a classic, breaking all the rules at once.

A Welder is a very serious Electrical-Load, it must be treated as such.
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No extension cords. I think I’m going to get an electrician in here to properly set this garage up for work.

 

And is that how the amperage thing works?

No, this is not how the amperage thing works.

The welder transformer is stepping down the primary voltage to a much lower output voltage.

So, if the input is 15 amps at 120 volts the wattage is...1800 watts, therefore the output can be 80 amps at 22.5 volts and also be 1800 watts.

Losses notwithstanding.

 

Stick Welding (SMAW) starts with a secondary high voltage of ~ 100v AC or DC, once struck, the arc voltage collapses to ~ 30V or so.
Typically the transformer has a crank in/out shunt secondary in order to vary the level of the collapsed voltage.

 

Stick Welding (SMAW) starts with a secondary high voltage of ~ 100v AC or DC, once struck, the arc voltage collapses to ~ 30V or so.
Typically the transformer has a crank in/out shunt secondary in order to vary the level of the collapsed voltage.

Max,

how does that relate to my set up with the 15amp outlet on a 20amp circuit? Sorry I’m pretty new at this.

 

I agree with post #7, you need to wire or supply the welder with sufficient size supply, the Initial striking current of the arc is fairly considerable,

 

Hi,
What are you welding, is it decent metal? 6013 rods might be a better choice, 2 mm diameter.
Are you an experienced welder? Its a steep learning curve.
Good luck..............

 

I agree with post #7, you need to wire or supply the welder with sufficient size supply, the Initial striking current of the arc is fairly considerable,

I’m able to strike the arc. The arc just cuts out after a couple seconds and I have to re-strike. I know my technique is good.

 

It happens on all settings, from 40 to 80 amps. And is that how the amperage thing works? This welder’s manual says it needs a 20amp circuit…

it’s currently on a 20amp circuit but a 15amp outlet.

I’m able to strike the arc. The arc just cuts out after a couple seconds and I have to re-strike. I know my technique is good.

What are input specs / model # of the welder? I goofed and assumed this was an 9600W unit but from your description it's 2400W. I was trying to say the quality of the weld is proportional to the settings on the welder. It's a useful diagnostic to run a bead using each setting and compare visually. Also, why not take it to your workplace and test it on their circuit? Be sure to take your test coupons so you can show them what really happened!

 

What are input specs / model # of the welder? I goofed and assumed this was an 9600W unit but from your description it's 2400W. I was trying to say the quality of the weld is proportional to the settings on the welder. It's a useful diagnostic to run a bead using each setting and compare visually. Also, why not take it to your workplace and test it on their circuit? Be sure to take your test coupons so you can show them what really happened!

This is the welder. Also, I’m a civil engineer so it would look very strange for me to show up with an inverter welder lol.

https://www.harborfreight.com/80-am...NYkNmsTdVwnZmAcNNQFFc5iJ-100hecoaAiSKEALw_wcB

 

Please re-read my post #7,
and ask about anything that You don't fully understand in that post.

There is no use in going any further in this Thread
until You understand, and implement, every point outlined in post #7.

There is probably nothing wrong with the Welder.

Electrode selection is irrelevant at this point.
Your technique is irrelevant at this point.
The preparation of the Metal to be welded is irrelevant at this point.
The settings on the front of the Welder are irrelevant at this point.

The Welder will never operate satisfactorily without a very stout Power-Supply.
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I believe it also has an open neutral.

What exactly do you mean by this? To me an open neutral would mean it's not connected and if that is the case nothing should work on that outlet no matter what it is.

 

The NEC allows 15 amp outlets on 20 amp circuits. No problem there. But what you probably are experiencing is voltage drop over the length of the circuit. Plug the welder into the receptacle closest to the electrical panel and see how it performs.

 

CHICAGO ELECTRIC 80 Amp Inverter Arc Welder
Is not a quality welder and is very light duty.
The welder may be faulty.
You said you are new to this.
You may have to modify your technique.
After you strike the arc, go very slow with a 3/32”, 6013 welding rod.
You can go up from there when you get used to it.