Sorry just really new at this and trying to learn. So if I go with the DC option on post #4 - that would be a three connector / terminal switch (post)? So wire to the middle post (terminal) from power supply on switch "B" then out to the lights on Switch A - middle terminal (post)? then trailer wire from the other posts to the corresponding post on the other switch? Then can i use 18 gauge wire for the whole thing? Wiring in parallel okay as per drawing in the post? Not too much voltage drop? I have a 100 watt power supply.

Sorry I was never accused of being too bright...pardon the pun.

 

A switch like this...perhaps - 3 posts (terminals)

 

If the switch will handle 5 amps DC. Minimum 16 gauge wire recommended. If the power supply is 25 feet max from the LEDs the voltage drop will be 1 volt using #16 wire. It also depends on the LED module as to the minimum voltage required.
Steve G

 

A switch like this...perhaps - 3 posts (terminals)

View attachment 144098

One thing to ensure with that type of switch format is some are intended to switch a live to load (SPST), the other terminal is neutral for the indicator lamp.
Max.

 

Sorry I meant a switch SPDT that doesn't have a middle position...if that makes sense. So just on or off.

JFTR a SPDT switch is normally referred to as on-on not on-off.

Sorry for the confusion.

 

So an on-on SPDT switch. Other than that......is my post #21 correct? thanks again...a switch like this?

 

So an on-on SPDT switch. Other than that......is my post #21 correct? thanks again...a switch like this?

Use 16 gauge wire. Recommend a 10 amp switch. Check auto supply places. From your description of the wiring, I think so. Just wire it as shown.

 

Yea, it’s difficult to attach anything larger than 20 gauge to those mini switches, you want something with screw terminals or perhaps spade lugs.

Solder terminals are ok too, but can be a hassle used outside of a chassis.

 

If you were switching 120v, you could use AWG-22 for up to 5A, but at 12v the 4.5v drop over your required 50 feet of wire would not leave enough voltage for your load.

AWG-16 with 5A current will drop about 1v over 50 feet at room temperature, leaving 11V for your load.

It is usually preferable to have your long runs be high voltage, as you need less current to transmit the same amount of power, thus you can use much smaller conductors. Of course, high voltage circuits must be properly insulated and enclosed; otherwise death is an all-to-real possibility.

5A @ 12V = 60W
0.5A @ 120V = 60W.

 

If you were switching 120v, you could use AWG-22 for up to 5A,

AWG-16 with 5A current will drop about 1v over 50 feet at room temperature, leaving 11V for your load.

AWG-22 would not meet code in the USA at 120v.
AWG-16 voltage loss already stated in post #23.
SG