Hello, I'm hoping to get a schematic showing the electrical flow through a pump voltage switch . It has 3 of the 4 wires off and no direction / schematic on the equipment. Tech support/ pump specific resources know absolutely nothing about how it's normally wired. I'm currently using the 230v option and would just as well direct wire vs. Use the switch. Can anyone give so.e direction?

 

You will need to post pictures and more info as your question is almost impossible to answer with out that.

 

Here are 2 more pics. I can get more, but literally no diagram on unit. I know there are 2 line voltage wires, a wired in capacitor. I do not know how the switch managed the neutral leg in 230 v option

 

I just did a Google search and found the user manual.

 

The instruction book is rather useless as far as even changing the connections from 120 to 240.Woorse yet, I think that wiring diagram may have been for the pressure switch, not for the motor.

 

Here's the front picture

Here are 2 more pics. I can get more, but literally no diagram on unit. I know there are 2 line voltage wires, a wired in capacitor. I do not know how the switch managed the neutral leg in 230 v option

The instruction book is rather useless as far as even changing the connections from 120 to 240.Woorse yet, I think that wiring diagram may have been for the pressure switch, not for the motor.

 

There is 0 info on that part of the electrical circuit. Tech support viewed it as the motor assembly(1) on the part breakdown but don't even have the ability to order it. I have seen some basic images of how this could be wired online, but the image doesn't designate the wire purpose

 

If you want to run it with a switch you need a two pole switch rated for motor control. It would need to be HP rated to be legal for the us electric code at least. What I mean by two pole is it breaks and makes both (in this case hot) legs at the same time. I don't know what you typically order parts through but I use McMasterCarr a lot. https://www.mcmaster.com/7657K33/ is a two pole (DPST) rated for 3hp. Thats what you're looking for. As far as the rest of it, it doesn't look like the pump is set up for anything but to pump, so no reversing I saw. Unless I missed it in the manual. Wiring the hots to the controller, do as the instructions say to do and run your supply through that DPST switch.

 

Honestly I need to know the wire function. The pump will always be 220 . Not sure what load wire should have the capacitor in line.

 

It's a 1 direction pump for a water haul customer. Supplies water to home from 2 1500 gallon tanks

 

If the wires are still CORRECTLY connected to the switch, and IF the TS is able to adequately record which terminal of the switch each wire is connected to, and IF the TS has an adequate means of checking continuity across switch contacts, THEN it should be safe to measure resistance and learn what the connection scheme is, without any additional information. But looking back at post #1 I see that is not the situation.
Are there other wires present in that area that were not connected to the switch??
So now it is time to think a bit: For a dual voltage motor there are two conditions, which for the higher voltage the two windings would be in series, while for the lower voltage they will be in parallel. And I see no mention of any capacitor, either as part of the motor or as external to the motor.
If the resistance is measured then it will be obvious which wires go to each winding, and that will leave only one unknown, which is the phasing. And the question about other wires and the power connections becomes rather vital. If all the 4 wires went to the switch, then where did the mains feed connect???
So what I can guess is that one of the series connections will work and the other series connection will be a non-starting connection. AND that the power supply connections were not part of the switch connection scheme.
AND I HOPE that a lesson has been learned.

 

How well do you know the staff at your local Tractor Supply? Do you think they'll be amenable to opening up a similar pump to see how it's wired?

 

If the power input connections are still able to be identified so that power could be applied correctly, then the resistance check can probably work. BUT if those connections have also been completely then finding another unit is your main hope. Assuming that it was wired correctly initially for the 220 volt mode..

 

Well the installation instructions shows how all 4 wires are connected to the terminal strip. Not sure of the confusion. You say 3 of the 4 are unwired. I show 4 connections in the manual. two should come from outside the machine and two go to the motor.

 

Well the installation instructions shows how all 4 wires are connected to the terminal strip. Not sure of the confusion. You say 3 of the 4 are unwired. I show 4 connections in the manual. two should come from outside the machine and two go to the motor.

If you look closely, that diagram is for wiring the pressure switch between the supply wires and the motor wires. It does not help much with connections inside the motor.

 

Can I get a pic inside the peckerhead.

I need more information cause I apparently don't get it, please. So I'm straight, the pictures you have are of the pressure switch, that is attached to the peckerhead, correct?

 

On all oof the several well installations that I have seen the pressure switch is not at the pump. It is near the pressure tank that can be quite distant from the pump.

 

The OP sounds like they're looking for the motor wiring not the pressure switch wiring. The manual shows the pressure switch on the side of the peckerhead of the motor, it looks like. I think the confusion is the 120/240v switch on the pressure switch is throwing the OP off while they look online. And from the sounds of it they're fixing a borking. Someone else started unwiring and they have to fix it.

 

Certainly the TS needs the switch connection wiring.
It might be that the motor manufacturer can provide the correct information.
If there are actually only four connections to the switch , then it seems that the effect will be to put the two windings either in series or in parallel. For 240 volt operation they must be in series. But polarity matters, and so there is a challenge, because half of the series connections will be wrong.
The first thing to try is to call the manufacturer and as for assistance with the switch connections.
AND, is the TS able to use a meter to check the connections??
Does the motor actually have a capacitor?
AND the correct term is "Junction Box" NOT "peckerhead"

 

the industry term is peckerhead. Ask any electrician for the location of the peckerhead and they will know. And according to the OP the manufacturer won't give them the information.