Facebook
Google
GitHub
Linkedin
I am a new member and stumbled in here as part of a google search for some information. I am a sparky (maintenance electrician ) by trade and took electronics in high school some 20 yrs ago. I have found this place to be "brain food" I am glad to have become a member. I do have a question. I have read about the dry transfer method using a photo copier. I think that this will work for me making a "repair" board for a very costly LLP (LED light panel) I have not been able to find replacement boards to repair our water dammaged light (it is an inspection lamp on our 5 gallon line ) I work for a water bottler (DS Waters / Sparkletts in Phoenix, AZ) any input is welcome Just to give you a hint how long I've been away from electronics state of the art microprocessor back in the day was the 6500 series the Z80 and the 8088. Much before the advent of SMD componants. The board that I need to make uses the PLCC-2 LEDs and some smd resistors so small that my aging eyes can not see any values on the chips with a 10x loup...... thanks in andvance
Toner transfer
- Thread starter Lt762x39
- Start date
Greetings! And welcome to AAC!
I've moved your post into its own thread, where it will draw more responses.
Please refrain from "hijacking" existing threads with tangent or off-topic questions. You can create new threads for new questions using the "New Thread" button on the upper left of the page.
No matter what way you decide to use for the replacement PCB, making an absolutely accurate foil pattern is the most important part. How are you planning on doing this?
I've moved your post into its own thread, where it will draw more responses.
Please refrain from "hijacking" existing threads with tangent or off-topic questions. You can create new threads for new questions using the "New Thread" button on the upper left of the page.
No matter what way you decide to use for the replacement PCB, making an absolutely accurate foil pattern is the most important part. How are you planning on doing this?
Beenthere is right, making the pattern is the absolute first step. If the traces are small then you'll probably need to draw it on a computer, because copying machines loose the really fine details, worse, they tend to leave voids between the pads and the trace! Printing to a good laser printer gets around this issue.
Once you have the board drawn out then try this site...
http://www.fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm
I think it is a fair statement that almost all the old hands have this site bookmarked.
Once you have the board drawn out then try this site...
http://www.fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm
I think it is a fair statement that almost all the old hands have this site bookmarked.
Just wanted to thank you guys for your input and to answer ? as to how I intend to do the layout. I downloaded some "free software " to do the artwork with. Just in case I was into doing the layout "old school" do any of you know where I can get some drafting supplies (the thin tape and chip transfers) just in case I don't take to the software too quickly
Truth, you don't need anything fancy unless you're designing something from scratch. We are talking about duplicating an existing board, which should be almost photographic in nature, except lithographic (all black/white, no grey).
I've been known to successfully make PCB layouts using Paint.
I've been known to successfully make PCB layouts using Paint.
Just an idea, but if you have a flatbed scanner, you might be able to scan an image of the circuit board into a .png format file, edit it to clean it up and enhance contrast using something like MS Paint, reverse the image (mirror image) and print it right back out.
What are the approximate dimensions of the board?
What are the approximate dimensions of the board?
scubasteve_911
- Joined Dec 27, 2007
- 1,203
I think the biggest problem is going to be resolution. He mentioned extremely fine resistors, which could mean 0402 or 0603. I doubt that one could manufacture boards with these small features without use of better equipment. There is another issue of alignment if it is a 2-layer board. Then, finally, soldering the PCB without soldermask can be a nightmare.
My suggestion would be to have it professionally made. Using a scanner, as wookie suggests, may also work. You would need to do some serious image processing / editing to get a reliable result. There are companies that reverse-engineer PCBs, which is a route if you have the money for that.
Steve
My suggestion would be to have it professionally made. Using a scanner, as wookie suggests, may also work. You would need to do some serious image processing / editing to get a reliable result. There are companies that reverse-engineer PCBs, which is a route if you have the money for that.
Steve
Not sure how important the indicator panel, but if it's something that involves the safety of the employees or consumers, it would likely be more cost effect to have the board reproduced professionally. Hard to say, without seeing the damaged board.
