Hi
Posting the method I use here in the workshop for prototype PCB.
Ended up using this procedure after years of trial and errors
Results are excellent for prototype ,consistent , and quite quick, My average start to finish is about 1 hour
Just make sure you keep everything spotless throughout the procedure.

All the best
Dave

 

Just to let you know, I personally wouldn't download your document because usually I expect the details to be in the actual post. If necessary, the post might include some images. But when the content is all in an attachment, there is a risk of opening a .pdf file that I will not take.

IMHO

 

Welcome to AAC!

There are many variations for toner transfer you just have to pick something that works for you.

I have only used a clothes iron for transfer because I can monitor the transfer process and apply heat and pressure where it is needed. You can't do this with any opaque transfer medium, but I use inkjet transparencies and I can monitor the transfer of all objects. Because I can see through the medium, I can apply the necessary heat and pressure to close drill holes enough to make drilling easier and prevent traces from expanding enough to cause shorts.

 

Hi.

Results are excellent for prototype

You should at least have included a picture. If not in your post so definitely in the attachment.

But when the content is all in an attachment, there is a risk of opening a .pdf file that I will not take.

One interesting thing. He puts the PCB in the freezer for 30 mins after the PCB, with artwork has been through the laminator 10 times. That's a new one. In the freezer.

 

He puts the PCB in the freezer for 30 mins after the PCB, with artwork has been through the laminator 10 times. That's a new one. In the freezer.

Probably overkill. I just let my board cool so it's not too hot to handle.

 

Probably overkill. I just let my board cool so it's not too hot to handle.

Me too. I put in a bowl of water the second I'm done ironing. Then I let it soak for a few minutes before I start peeling.

He is using waxed paper, thou... Never tried that.

 

Interesting method, I'm not sure as I'd like to use waxed paper in my laser printer though, if it melted to the inside of the printer, it would be goodbye printer.

I use glossy magazines or the blue transfer paper if I'm being lazy and want to ensure perfect results first time.

After I have the board and artwork prepared I put it through a modified laminator... I added a pot to crank up the heat a bit and also swapped out the motor for one which runs at half the speed. A couple of passes is usually good enough. Once complete I soak in a tray of water. If you leave it a couple of minutes the paper will rise off the PCB on its own. Then I use an old toothbrush to clean off any paper thats still stuck and remove any loose toner. I then fill in any bits with an indelible pen before etching. I find an old plate warmer is sufficient to warm the ferric chloride to about 40c.

I use acetone to remove the toner, then drill the board using a dremel with a drill stand and tungsten carbide bits.

After a good clean I then tin plate.

 

Interesting method, I'm not sure as I'd like to use waxed paper in my laser printer though, if it melted to the inside of the printer, it would be goodbye printer.

.

I use waxpaper all the time and no issues. It is an excellent way to go. So easy to line things up as the paper is very translucent.

I am now looking at printing direct.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Pantum-2502W-for-Direct-Laser-/?ALLSTEPS

 

I am now looking at printing direct.

Didn't you buy a cnc machine?

 

Didn't you buy a cnc machine?

First glad to see you are back! Haven't seen your posts in a while.


Yes I did. I am back up and running again after a long break. Moved from one house to another, plus all kind of other things going on.

So I had to relearn everything, pretty much. One lesson I learned from my past experience is, even under the best of my millings, I did not like the results of what I was getting. Just too hard to get a level pcb for one. So I decided to just use the CNC for drilling and then use conventional transfer for the etchs.

I might revisit it later, maybe look at some leveling software. But the drilling for me is huge. My hands shake a bit and my hand eye coordination is not great.

I just turned this out. No way could I get those holes that straight and evenly spaced. I would need to make my holes larger to allow for slack.

 

Thanks. Been quite busy myself. Bough another boat.

With my DIY CNC, I had the same problem with perfect level. The solution was to mount a plywood plate on-top of the "bed", and level that with the CNC router. It was a tremendous help, but I guess you've already though of that.

Does your CNC take g-code? If so, what program do you use to make the g-code.

I hardly use it nowadays. It's too noisy, take long time, and I'm not quite satisfied with the result... For PCB I'm most of the time using the toner transfer, with clothes iron, method. The paper I get the best result with, is Canon Glossy Photo paper.