Looks bad enough to me. Enough to warrant some attention anyway?
Max.

 

Agreed! Scrub it gently with a toothbrush and some alcohol, until the corrosion salts are gone, then seal the corroded legs etc by brushing with a clean grease like vaseline.

You could spray with a varnish or conformal coating but thta makes it much harder to test/repair later if needed (and you probably will need to).

 

then seal the corroded legs etc by brushing with a clean grease like vaseline.

A good one for this is keep a tube of Dielectric Grease handy!
From any Automotive parts store, couple of $$.
Max.

 

I use dielectric grease a lot, but it's conductive so I'd be reluctant to use it here. Hard to ensure it doesn't bridge those corroded pins on the IC.

 

Vaseline is fine. We used it for years as the final part of corrosion repair on remote controls that had spill damage etc. It's also great on corroded battery contacts where AA/AAA cells have leaked.

You'd be amazed at the nasty corrosive things people are always spilling on (in) remote controls like rum and coke, fizzy orange soda which is very highly acidic it's probably worse than battery acid etc.

 

Cat pee is the worst I've dealt with by far.

Corrosive, stinks, really hard to remove.

 

I use dielectric grease a lot, but it's conductive so I'd be reluctant to use it here.

Our test so far with Permatex Dielectric grease has revealed insignificant or no detectable trace of conduction, tested up to 240vac.
The prime suggested usage is inside coating of rubber spark plug boots and ceramic insulator, primarily to deter ingress of moisture, so It would be very detrimental in this application to be conductive!
Max.

 

Huh, of course you're correct. It makes sense - if it was conductive it would likely be corrosive.

Nevertheless it seems to help a lot in keeping contacts working and protected from corrosion; things like trailer light connections, battery slide switches, stuff like that. Maybe I should look for something else, but it does seem to help.