What did you repair today ?

timm27

Joined Dec 11, 2020
27
I just fixed my old Pure Move portable radio. Mostly it needed a replacement battery and I found a near equivalent on eBay (as you do!), which was delivered yesterday. Its working now but still not charging unless it is actually switched on. I think there is a dodgy track on the power input circuit board, and I know I can fix this by bypassing the track with some fine repair wire - it would be much easier if a circuit diagram and service sheet was available, but I've not been able to find one.
 

joeyd999

Joined Jun 6, 2011
6,360
Changed the oil and air filter in my pressure washer, unclogged the nozzles in my rotating head. Cleaned half a sidewalk before sunset and jumped in the pool to clean off.

Oh....all the nuts I had to turn were knuckle-busters. Ouch.
 

MikeA

Joined Jan 20, 2013
449
My TV died last night. Not turning on. Tried the buttons instead of remote, worked ! Tried another remote, new batteries, nope. Today checked infrared emission with a camera, OK.
Replaced the infrared sensor canibalized from defunct equipment, fixed ! Buttoned up; Did not work at all.
I had exactly the same issue, also 12 year old, but an LG split system, not a TV.

I did test the output leg of the IR receiver while it was powered on, since it was plainly exposed, to verify that it was indeed dead.

Then in the same manner I cannibalized an IR receiver from a pile of old circuit boards, soldered it in, and it has been working just fine for 2 weeks now.

How in the world does a cool running solid state part like an IR receiver go bad 12 years in? :rolleyes:

Sucks for anyone who doesn't have a soldering iron and has the same issue, since the only physical button on the unit itself is the power button. You can't even adjust the temperature. Everything is done via the IR remote control. Without the remote it's basically unusable.

LG_IR_replacement.jpg
 
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MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
27,762
The most recent repair fixed itself: my Firefox program quite presenting the login screen a couple of weeks back, at the same time my McCaffe malware trial program expired. But just now Firefox started showing that screen and I logged into my email with Firefox. I had been reduced to using "Chrome", which is an OK browser but a lot slower loading. That fix was plain "magic".
Things I didn't fix today.
View attachment 298790
What a mess!
Clearly it has several important assemblies removed for service.
 
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MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
27,762
You will have more success by telling
I've been asked to audit that machine. I wish I could submit a one word report.

JUNK

But I'm being paid by management to submit a parts and labor estimate.
You can get a better response from telling them that it has some unsafe systems that are obsolete. Also that it generates RADON gas as an unintended byproduct.
 

nsaspook

Joined Aug 27, 2009
16,370
You can get a better response from telling them that it has some unsafe systems that are obsolete. Also that it generates RADON gas as an unintended byproduct.
They would rightly just laugh at that. I just helped their tech repair a identical obsolete sister machine that likely used parts from the Hanger Queen. RADON gas would be a lot safer than the normal byproducts generated. The only game plan is cost basis for repair vs current usage as a parts archive. Parts archive IMO is the only realistic option.
1690139250064.png

Ion implanters have five main categories of hazard associated with them. These are hazardous materials, high voltage, radiation (ionizing and non-ionizing), mechanical systems, and ergonomic issues.

Unlike many other semiconductor processes the gas cylinder and peripheral gas control equipment must be contained within the implanter due to the high voltage at which the implanter is operated. The high voltage precludes remote location of the gas box, as connecting plumbing cannot be run externally from the implanter. When using high pressure dopant gases, additional engineering controls such as the use of high pressure tubings and components, containment ventilation, toxic gas monitoring, and scrubbing are required to reduce danger to personnel from leaks in the gas system [11,15]. When the door of the gas cabinet is open, the air velocity should be about 1 meter / second (200 feet / minute) across the valves and fittings of the gas cylinder and lines. Gas cylinder installation and removal involve the highest potentials for catastrophic chemical accident. Workers involved in these procedures must be trained in the hazards of the materials involved as well as in specific safe work practices. At a minimum, these persons must be trained in and use Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) including full body chemical protective coveralls, durable rubber gloves and positive pressure, supplied air breathing systems (these inlcude air line respirators with portable escape pack, Self Contained Breathing Apparatus-SCBA, and portable, cart mounted air line cylinder systems). Other training required should include emergency response procedures, use of portable gas detecton equipment, ventilation and detection system awareness, and procedures for establishing a safe perimeter around the gas cylinder change area. Gas cylinder changes should only be performed by a team of at least two individuals, both in full protective gear.
https://datasheet.datasheetarchive....elis.com/8c72c117d6823af41574e20877e5d16c.pdf
 

cmartinez

Joined Jan 17, 2007
8,797
Fixed my coffee maker ... its small LCD screen went dead, and nothing in the circuit looked burned. Then I noticed it worked using a sort of transformerless power supply working directly from 110VAC . So after some measurements, I found that a Zener diode was dead. A WAG that I made turned out to be correct, since I replaced said diode with a 12V zener from my inventory of parts and Voilá! ... the thing was up and running and making delicious coffee again ... I was my wife's superhero for a day ;)
 
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joeyd999

Joined Jun 6, 2011
6,360
Fixed my coffee maker ... its small LCD screen went dead, and nothing in the circuit looked burned. Then I noticed it worked using a sort of transformerless power supply working directly from 110VAC . So after some measurements, I found that a Zener diode was dead. A WAG that I made turned out to be correct, since I replaced said diode with a 12V zener from my inventory of parts and Voilá! ... the thing was up and running and making delicious coffee again ... I was my wife's superhero for a day ;)
Must be a Mexican thing. Here in the land of disposable appliances, we throw it in the trash and pick up a new Mr. Coffee at Walgreens for $19.95.

BTW, Cuban espresso ground is much better in a drip coffee maker than Folgers.
 

joeyd999

Joined Jun 6, 2011
6,360
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MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
27,762
I did need to repair, or temporarily replace, the programmable thermostat for our heating/cooling system. The initial guess was a weak battery pair, although they checked OK. Replaced them and no fix, the replacements measured 1.62 volts. Same symptom. Cleaned tha battery terminals and bent them for a higher pressure seemed to be the fix for a day, then the failure returned.
It may be time for "open heart surgery" on this programmable Honeywell HOME (RTH7560E1001) assembly.. It may be a snap-together designed for assembly product, intended to be serviced as an assembly, not repaired.
So I did a quick substitution with the previous device that has far fewer memory locations.
 

richbrune

Joined Oct 28, 2005
126
Insinkerator.
Haha Insinkerator. Use extra care and putty, the provided gasket disintegrated after a few month, leaking so badly I worried about the wire caps, which luckily were well sealed, but the leak propagated to the plug and opened the breaker. Looking to install a GFCI there somehow.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
27,762
Haha Insinkerator. Use extra care and putty, the provided gasket disintegrated after a few month, leaking so badly I worried about the wire caps, which luckily were well sealed, but the leak propagated to the plug and opened the breaker. Looking to install a GFCI there somehow.
When installing any brand of grinder in a sink, the only failure-proof seal on the joint is silicone RTV. That goes on the upper surface before the stainless part goes in. That rubber gasket goes below the sink to hold the clamping pressure long term. There must be enough RTV to completely fill all of the irregularities and gaps in the joint. Do not wipe off the excess squeezed out until the assembly has been fully installed. Doing it correctly there will never be moisture at the terminals.
Using "plumbers putty" is the way to assure leakage, eventually, every time.
 

richbrune

Joined Oct 28, 2005
126
When installing any brand of grinder in a sink, the only failure-proof seal on the joint is silicone RTV. That goes on the upper surface before the stainless part goes in. That rubber gasket goes below the sink to hold the clamping pressure long term. There must be enough RTV to completely fill all of the irregularities and gaps in the joint. Do not wipe off the excess squeezed out until the assembly has been fully installed. Doing it correctly there will never be moisture at the terminals.
Using "plumbers putty" is the way to assure leakage, eventually, every time.
Yes, thanks I'm going to go with RTV since I've used it on other stuff and I have a tube.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
27,762
Yesterday I got a call that the temperature control on a cooler at a business partner's restaurant was suddenly freezing the stuff that just needed to be kept cool. I investigated and it certainly was the electronic thermostat. So I reset it to 36 degrees and switched it back on and it held within a degree of that for quite a few hours. But then it again malfunctions and chilled down to 10 degrees.
Given the very small size of the controller it is not likely to be much more than a processor and a display and a power switch circuit.

Does anyone have an idea as to what would provoke such a failure? That is simple to temporarily fix??
 

cmartinez

Joined Jan 17, 2007
8,797
Yesterday I got a call that the temperature control on a cooler at a business partner's restaurant was suddenly freezing the stuff that just needed to be kept cool. I investigated and it certainly was the electronic thermostat. So I reset it to 36 degrees and switched it back on and it held within a degree of that for quite a few hours. But then it again malfunctions and chilled down to 10 degrees.
Given the very small size of the controller it is not likely to be much more than a processor and a display and a power switch circuit.

Does anyone have an idea as to what would provoke such a failure? That is simple to temporarily fix??
I'd start by changing the thermocouple.
 

MrChips

Joined Oct 2, 2009
34,958
I have an HP Pavilion Slimline PC running Win 7 which I use for music practice and running Band-In-A-Box.
The audio output failed a few months back and every attempt to get it working failed. So I thought of getting an audio card to replace the on-board audio device. After searching for a card I found such a thing as an audio device in a USB stick and it was inexpensive. Plugged it in and it worked first time, no installation required.

Not exactly a repair but a work-around. Now I can get back to music practice.
 

joeyd999

Joined Jun 6, 2011
6,360
I have an HP Pavilion Slimline PC running Win 7 which I use for music practice and running Band-In-A-Box.
The audio output failed a few months back and every attempt to get it working failed. So I thought of getting an audio card to replace the on-board audio device. After searching for a card I found such a thing as an audio device in a USB stick and it was inexpensive. Plugged it in and it worked first time, no installation required.

Not exactly a repair but a work-around. Now I can get back to music practice.
I build Digital Audio Workstations for my daughter's friends out of old boxes I have lying around. Not that this is related directly to your post, but it came to mind when I read this.
 
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