Troubleshooting Treadmill Motor Control Board - Fuse & Mosfet keeps blowing (RESOLVED)

Thread Starter

CobraL0rd

Joined Jan 18, 2017
42
No, i am not talking about the drive belt. I'm talking about the static part that rests entirely on the motor! On top of that one, lies the drive belt (Poly-Vee timing belt).

This is what is mostly causing the noise. I can also hear something coming from the inside of the motor as well, but primarily It's that thing..
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,617
I just don't see a Static part resting on the motor.
The motor appears separate and self standing on the motor mounts?
Maybe indicate again what you are referring to.
Max.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,617
I am still not sure if you mean the LH picture I see nothing there except maybe what looks like a belt tensioner
I am not sure but think I see the problem in the RH picture looking through the Com end of the motor, it looks like one of the field magnets may have come loose, If so I have successfully epoxied them back on, observing the same magnetic polarity.
You would need to dismantle the motor to find out, be carefull when removing the rotor as it will try and cling to the magnets when you withdraw it.
Max.
 

Thread Starter

CobraL0rd

Joined Jan 18, 2017
42
Ok i will disassemble the motor today and figure it out. I won't sleep till i figure it out. So you are suggesting epoxy glue to reattach the magnet?

Anything else?
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,617
Apart from checking it out when dissembled, remember to remove the brushes first.
Also to remove the flywheel which is usually threaded on, remove the same direction as the flywheel turns, it may be a LH thread.
I used an industrial strength epoxy.
Max.
 

Thread Starter

CobraL0rd

Joined Jan 18, 2017
42
Unfortunately i cannot remove the motor from the frame. It's screws are partially oxyacetylene welded on the back. I have to figure out how to remove that, and if it's possible.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,617
If the bolts are welded to the frame I would think this prevents them turning and allow the self-locking nuts on the top to be removed with a socket wrench?
If they do turn, the you would need to slide an open end under the frame, possibly?
Max.
 

Thread Starter

CobraL0rd

Joined Jan 18, 2017
42
Well, i tried to turn the nuts at the front with a bad socket wrench (i do not have a proper one, i will go buy one tomorrow for 15Euro, i was thinking about it for a couple of months now that i will need it) as hard as i can and i could not remove them. They are very well attached. I will need a proper socket wrench so i will try again in a couple of days.

I do not know if there's another way to possibly pour a compound on the welded spots to loosen them a bit.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,617
If the bolts are inserted from the bottom as they seem and welded then it is done in order to just unscrew the self locking nuts from the top.
At least that is the way I see it.
Max.
 

Thread Starter

CobraL0rd

Joined Jan 18, 2017
42
Yes, that is exactly how it is. The bolts are inserted from the back and i have to unscrew the nuts from the top. But i can't because i don't have a proper socket wrench that fits these nuts. I will buy one tomorrow, or the day after. I will update the post when i get to it.
 

Thread Starter

CobraL0rd

Joined Jan 18, 2017
42
Ok i unscrewed and I'm disassembling the motor. By the way it weighs a ton!

I removed the brushes. But why remove these first?

Now i'm trying to remove the flywheel
 
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Thread Starter

CobraL0rd

Joined Jan 18, 2017
42
Ah i see.

So, an entire new layer of dust was formed inside. I hesitate to remove the flywheel from the motor shaft and I'm not sure i need to yet. I uploaded a video here of the motor shaft and rotor. The stator is fine.

-video removed-

How does it look? Do you see anything strange that i should attend to? Should i pour silicone oil in it? And what are those blue - green pastries around the winding? What should i do to this?
 
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Thread Starter

CobraL0rd

Joined Jan 18, 2017
42
Yes the bearing is smooth, but not as smooth as the roller bearings of the treadmill. However it still looks fine.

I also:
1. cleaned a bit the commutator, which had a fair amount of carbon deposits from the brushes and
2. used sand paper to grind the brushes a bit and straighten them out.

Just to make sure I could also..
1. pour motor varnish on the windings (which i don't have),
2. replace that bearing, but i don't have a proper puller tool to do it.
(...just mentioning these for reference, in case the motor fails again after a while..)

One more thing before i reassemble. I have specialized bearing oil (called Tarrot speed bearing oil). Should i pour a bit on the bearings (or anywhere else) with a syringe?
 
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