I have always been a little leery of making electrical connections that claim 'Quick Connector' but what is the general take on the T-Tap types touted for use in automotive work?
Do they generally do a decent job?
Max.

 

They are the spawn of Satan. I would reject any job using them. Sharp cutting edges on soft copper, regular vibration on that exposed by the blade cut surface that will eventually be a oxidized, corroded, soon to be brittle wire is a recipe for a connection failure.

 

I hate them, never use them myself, but accept that they are used. I have finally accepted IDC for small stuff, and I guess there is not much difference. What really bugs me, is when a mechanic uses a pocket knife to slice the insulation diagonally to make a test connection. Then, just leaves it.

 

I think I will pass and resort to my original methods, but on IDC connectors, which have been around for ever, I must say I have never had a problem, and also these are typically very low current applications.
Max.

 

I try not to use them, but. How can they be any worse than the insulation displacement type connectors used in things like ribbon cables? The big thing is to use the correct size for the gauge of wire, so the connector metal "bites" into the wire. The few times I did use them I put "automotive Goop" over them to make them some what water resistant.

 

I think I will pass and resort to my original methods, but on IDC connectors, which have been around for ever, I must say I have never had a problem, and also these are typically very low current applications.
Max.

A important factor to IDC connector reliability is cable strain relief. Any movement at the actual electrical connection point will lead to a mechanically unstable condition at the gas tight contact with possible connection failure when you have several pounds of force versus hundreds of pounds for crimps.

 

Agree with shortbus. Ribbon cables in my PC don't get exposed to salt spray. Connections in my trailer brake-light circuit do.

 

You can also improve their reliability by loading them with dielectric grease before crimping and covering with shrink tube or self-vulcanizing tape after.

 

You can also improve their reliability by loading them with dielectric grease before crimping and covering with shrink tube or self-vulcanizing tape after.

Sounds like:

 

The correct size of T connector for the gauge of wire has 'strain relief' built in, or at least the 3M ones do. But doing this type of connection in anyway even soldering gets back to a problem of strain relief. The way this type of connection is done at the "factory" is with a special crimp type connector then wrapped with a tape that looks like duct tape, called splice tape. Then it gets wrapped with electrical tape a couple of inches on either side of the splice and the splice tape. Or at least that is the way GM does it.