MisterBill2

The switch is very stiff and she has to come to a full stop before changing direction. it also has to pass through an open (middle) position to get to the other direction. I do not believe switching under power is the source of my burning Mosfet problem

Stephen

OK, and thanks for the clarification. Knowing is much better than guessing.

 

The third controller sent to me from X-Pro is built a lot better than the YK31C. It has an aluminum block with 4pcs of ST 110N8F6 Mosfets bolted to it and an onboard 40 amp relay, also a bigger case and thicker wire. There is no brand name, controller simply is marked as "Intelligent anti runaway controller" 24V Current Limiting:15A, Off voltage 20.5V Power: 350W. I opened it up and I didn't see or smell any smoked parts, but it only pulses motor now a little bit (no other movement) but when it worked there was a slow ramp up to speed, less power overall than the previous controller. The board has a label on it XRL20200101-A, but on the Internet I couldn't find any info on it. I wish I knew someone in San Diego with a test bench and an Oscilloscope to help me fix this and also release some of this controller's capability. Getting 500 watt should be no problem with this design. The replacement NTE Mosfets have not arrived from NJ in the mail yet. I'm at a loss on how to proceed.

Stephen

OK, and thanks for the clarification. Knowing is much better than guessing.

 

I found one issue, The charge cable was frayed, just fixed that and now the battery will fully charge. The controller is probably still good, we'll see.

Stephen

The third controller sent to me from X-Pro is built a lot better than the YK31C. It has an aluminum block with 4pcs of ST 110N8F6 Mosfets bolted to it and an onboard 40 amp relay, also a bigger case and thicker wire. There is no brand name, controller simply is marked as "Intelligent anti runaway controller" 24V Current Limiting:15A, Off voltage 20.5V Power: 350W. I opened it up and I didn't see or smell any smoked parts, but it only pulses motor now a little bit (no other movement) but when it worked there was a slow ramp up to speed, less power overall than the previous controller. The board has a label on it XRL20200101-A, but on the Internet I couldn't find any info on it. I wish I knew someone in San Diego with a test bench and an Oscilloscope to help me fix this and also release some of this controller's capability. Getting 500 watt should be no problem with this design. The replacement NTE Mosfets have not arrived from NJ in the mail yet. I'm at a loss on how to proceed.

Stephen

 

In the photo with the thumb showing there is an area with a problem of some sort. Somethingbhas been very hot and blasted smoke out. That is the yellow stain around the screw hole. That might be what is described in post #63, I am not sure. BUT something in that area does not look quite right. But I guess that we need to wait until the battery is charged to see. GOOD LUCK!!

 

MisterBill2,

I suspected that too, but measuring the diode, it is working perfectly. It is mounted a little askew true, but looks like it was added during production runs, what is also added is a yellow wire that goes from the top of the board to the bottom of the board, some after thought patch I believe. Nothing has the tell tale stink of a failed part though! battery is charging tonight, we will see tomorrow .

Stephen

In the photo with the thumb showing there is an area with a problem of some sort. Something has been very hot and blasted smoke out. That is the yellow stain around the screw hole. That might be what is described in post #63, I am not sure. BUT something in that area does not look quite right. But I guess that we need to wait until the battery is charged to see. GOOD LUCK!!

 

MisterBill2,
I charged the battery and now the 350 watt controller works. I did some noise protection and tried to increase this unit's power a few amps. reading about shunt modifications to "trick" the controller to put out more power I beleive I added about 3 amps but with out my ammeter in yet I don't know. I also added the snubber across the DPDT reverse switch.

MisterBill2,

I suspected that too, but measuring the diode, it is working perfectly. It is mounted a little askew true, but looks like it was added during production runs, what is also added is a yellow wire that goes from the top of the board to the bottom of the board, some after thought patch I believe. Nothing has the tell tale stink of a failed part though! battery is charging tonight, we will see tomorrow .

Stephen

 

Masterbill2,

Still no Mosfet parts from NJ. But maybe I should just stick with the 350 watt controller and raise it's current limit, the ST 110N8F6 Mosfets (4 of them) has some pretty high limits:

Vd3 Darin-source voltage 80v
Vg3 Gate-source voltage +/- 20v
Id Drain current (continuous) @ 25C 110a
Id Drain current (continuous) @ 100C 85a

Stephen

MisterBill2,
I charged the battery and now the 350 watt controller works. I did some noise protection and tried to increase this unit's power a few amps. reading about shunt modifications to "trick" the controller to put out more power I beleive I added about 3 amps but with out my ammeter in yet I don't know. I also added the snubber across the DPDT reverse switch.

 

I got my Ammeter in but it does not show amps in forward or reverse. It shows voltage only under throttle and reaches a peak of 18 volts under load at full speed. I contacted the seller, waiting for an answer. I know my diagram shows Shunt on the positive motor lead but polarity changes with reverse switch.

Stephen

 

I was actually thinking of one of those cheap mechanical ammeters, not a digital one. Shurite or similar quality. Or, if you can find one, an old zero center type, 30 amps charge and discharge, used in older automotive applications.

 

MisterBill2,

I got the NTE Mosfets and put them in, the YK31C controller has no output. Another project to figure out. I'm too busy with house construction, Architect, city building Inspector, financing, Contractor negotiations, yada, yada. I did make some progress with the better built no-name 350 watt controller and the ammeter setup. By soldering the shunt in stages, started stock 15 amps, then 20 amps now I get at least 31 amps @ 26 volts! 806 watts! The case wasn't even warm! put the ATV back together and the family is loving it. Mission accomplished for now. Next to install a reverse contactor and brush noise suppression parts to the Razor Dirt Quad 500 DLX. Thanks for your time and expertise, you too dendad!

Stephen

I was actually thinking of one of those cheap mechanical ammeters, not a digital one. Shurite or similar quality. Or, if you can find one, an old zero center type, 30 amps charge and discharge, used in older automotive applications.

 

The X-Pro ATV has been working faithfully for now for over a month. When moving it with my weight (220 lbs) I witnessed a peak of 36 amps until it started coming up to speed. No one in my family is complaining about it now, but to be fair the newly purchased Razor 500 DLX has taken center stage. I modded the new ATV, blew up the controller (upgrade throttle miswire fiasco), upgraded the 3 batteries to 10 Ah (were 7Ah) added a reverse relay and a kill switch. The OEM Razor replacement controller was $15 delivered with tax and shipping from eBay. There seems to be no current control on this cheap Razor controller, larger Ah batteries added more torque, no other change, maybe controller has a bypass mode? The new Razor 500 DLX has taken center stage in my family, both Quads run at 10 mph +/- , Razor 500 has a gear reduction motor and X-Pro is direct drive, below I made a diagram of my upgrades to the new ATV