Safety & reliability: Cap as current-limiting device.

Thread Starter

ebeowulf17

Joined Aug 12, 2014
3,307
So, I'm thinking of making some solid state opto isolator modules for switching a 5V signal based on 120-240VAC input. I know this can be done with a small relay, but unless this is a really horrible idea, let's stick with the opto idea for now. Here's the current incarnation of my plan:
IMG_3771.PNG
I simmed with two separate optos because LTspice didn't have an AC input (two emitter LED) model, but my plan would be to use a single opto suitable for AC.

The question is about input current limiting. It seems I can get the LED current where I need it using just the impedance (react
 

Thread Starter

ebeowulf17

Joined Aug 12, 2014
3,307
Wow, my phone is losing its mind. Post got cut off and I can't keep the editor window open to finish it.

Anyway, the impedance (reactance?) of the caps seems to get the job done, but I often see a resistor in series with current limiting caps like this. What are the pros and cons? Should I put a real resistor where my just-for-simulation resistor is? I only hesitate because if it contributes any meaningful amount of resistance it will need to be high wattage (large and expensive,) so I'd rather not add it if it's not helpful.

As a side note, I haven't picked specific caps yet, but I'm aware of the need to choose for AC and high voltage. I seem to remember sourcing film caps rated 600VAC once before for a similar application.
 

AlbertHall

Joined Jun 4, 2014
12,346
You do need a resistor. Consider what happens if the capacitors are discharged and you switch on at the peak of the input voltage. A very large surge current will flow through the LED and the capacitor may not be too happy either.

The capacitors should be 'X' rated - suitable for continuous connection across the mains.
 

Thread Starter

ebeowulf17

Joined Aug 12, 2014
3,307
You do need a resistor. Consider what happens if the capacitors are discharged and you switch on at the peak of the input voltage. A very large surge current will flow through the LED and the capacitor may not be too happy either.

The capacitors should be 'X' rated - suitable for continuous connection across the mains.
Thanks!

Ok, I think I understand the problem - I calculated based on 60Hz impedance, but switching could create high frequency voltage components which would pass much higher currents because the impedance (reactance?) drops as frequency increases.

So then, any advice on choosing a suitable resistor value? I tried reading the datasheets for two optos I was considering, but neither gives any indication of an acceptable momentary or single-cycle current/wattage limit like some devices do. How do you know how much current limiting you need in this situation?
 

Thread Starter

ebeowulf17

Joined Aug 12, 2014
3,307
I looked at the 4N35 and in absolute max ratings it says 1A for <10uS, max continuous 50mA, so that would give some sort of a starting point.
Well, I'm still sort of guessing, but I figured the surge could easily last more than 10uS, so I chose a lower peak surge current limit of ~110mA, which is about double the continuous current rating for most of the optos I'm looking at. Based on that, I've come up with the following.

I'm feeling relatively confident about this setup now. Thanks for your guidance! Let me know if anything in the schematic or notes below doesn't look appropriate.

***EDIT: Oops! I compiled the image below from two different screenshots taken at different times. The reference designators on the wattage and current traces are wrong. Magenta is R2 and Cyan is R1.
Vulcanus_opto_07.png
 
Last edited:

DickCappels

Joined Aug 21, 2008
10,179
Make the 2.2k a fuse resistor or put a low current fuse in series with it and you won't have to worry as much about fire and smoke.

For the capacitors, check the manufacturer's datasheet to see whether they say anything about whether the capacitors can be use in series with the AC Line (some X and Y caps carry a warning about this).
 

Thread Starter

ebeowulf17

Joined Aug 12, 2014
3,307
Make the 2.2k a fuse resistor or put a low current fuse in series with it and you won't have to worry as much about fire and smoke.

For the capacitors, check the manufacturer's datasheet to see whether they say anything about whether the capacitors can be use in series with the AC Line (some X and Y caps carry a warning about this).
Thanks for both of the warnings! I'll keep them in mind, both for now and later (I want to remember everything I learn, but especially the stuff that involves safety!)
 

Thread Starter

ebeowulf17

Joined Aug 12, 2014
3,307
Looks like a good design.

R1 can be bigger, why burn 1/2 watt?
Thanks!

R1 discharges through the opto emitter LED when the switch is turned off (unless it happens to turn off at a zero crossing.) So, the larger I make R1, the longer it takes for the output to turn off.

I'm not sure how time critical I need this to be - responding within 0.1s is definitely good enough for me, but I'm not sure if I'd be equally happy with 0.25 or 0.5s. I'm definitely sure that one second lag is more than I'll accept. So, it's a balancing act; I could maybe increase R1 a little, but not far enough to completely get away from heat dissipation concerns.

*** EDIT:
Come to think of it, could I put R1 across the capacitors (in parallel with them,) instead of across line to neutral? Then the discharge path wouldn't go through the opto and I could choose a much longer time constant.

I wonder if I'm overlooking anything there. I'll have to give that some more thought.
 
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Thread Starter

ebeowulf17

Joined Aug 12, 2014
3,307
Ok, latest update. I think I'm pretty close now...

I've moved R1 and changed its value to 1Meg so that it can comfortably be 1/8W. This of course also dramatically improves the response time of the optos when switching off. The caps may take a second (or a few) to fully discharge, but I have no problem with that - I just didn't want them lingering at high voltage for minutes or hours. One less thing to worry about when servicing the machine this is being built for.

I've also updated some of the notes to reflect this change, and the capacitor safety notes so I don't forget them later when I'm shopping for parts.

Vulcanus_opto_08.png
 

Danko

Joined Nov 22, 2017
1,835
Ok, latest update. I think I'm pretty close now...
Diodes D1...D4 any low voltage.
opto-1.png
opto-2.png
Point 13 on schematic diagram means point 2.
Edit: Ground on the mains is for simulation only.
Because we need to see voltage on U1 LED.
 
Last edited:

ian field

Joined Oct 27, 2012
6,536
So, I'm thinking of making some solid state opto isolator modules for switching a 5V signal based on 120-240VAC input. I know this can be done with a small relay, but unless this is a really horrible idea, let's stick with the opto idea for now. Here's the current incarnation of my plan:
View attachment 140982
I simmed with two separate optos because LTspice didn't have an AC input (two emitter LED) model, but my plan would be to use a single opto suitable for AC.

The question is about input current limiting. It seems I can get the LED current where I need it using just the impedance (react
Some telecoms opto isolators have dual (bidirectional) IRLED.
 

Bernard

Joined Aug 7, 2008
5,784
As for reliability, my AAC illegal line operated night ( & day ) LED light has been on for 10 years, 24-7. Like
post # 7 but with a bridge rectifier & white LED.
 

Danko

Joined Nov 22, 2017
1,835
As for reliability, my AAC illegal line operated night ( & day ) LED light has been on for 10 years, 24-7. Like
post # 7 but with a bridge rectifier & white LED.
"The change of the CTR over operating time is mainly caused by a drop in the luminous efficiency of the LED. In general, the larger the LED input current (IF) and the higher the ambient temperature, the faster the CTR decreases."
https://www.renesas.com/en-eu/products/optoelectronics/technology/ctr.html
 
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