Problem NOT solved. Have a temp controller for a swamp cooler with pre-soak time. Want to change.

Thread Starter

Tonyr1084

Joined Sep 24, 2015
5,070
Problem NOT solved.

Have a temp controller for my swamp cooler (Evaporative cooler). It has a preset period of time where it will soak the pads for 4 minutes (P4), 2 minutes (P2) or zero minutes (P0). There's supposed to be a way to enter programming mode (see post #3). But when I follow the instructions (and tried alternate settings as well as doing a reset) I still can't get into the programming mode. The unit is approaching 10 years old, so my unit may pre-date the instructions.

Initially I was asking if anyone had experience with this controller and knew of a modification (internally) that can change the timing of the presoak. What I WOULD like is to be able to leave it with the four minute presoak but install an override button that will trigger the fan immediately. This is a function that will largely be unused. But it's use will primarily be for when the wife is cooking. OK, stop laughing. She sets off the smoke detector at least once a month. Sometimes on a weekly basis. And until someone invents a smoke detector that can be put on standby by yelling "I'M JUST COOKING!" I either have to put a fan on the floor blowing up at the detector or get a ladder and push and hold a button for three seconds. Then the smoke detector is "SUPPOSED" to be canceled for 13 minutes (but it seldom does). Hence, the desire to start the swamp cooler fan immediately. So there IS a practical side to it.

Here's a couple pictures:
1599877514806.png 1599877559882.png And again, here's the link:
 
Last edited:

dl324

Joined Mar 30, 2015
11,530
Can't you delete your own threads? That is, before anyone responds?

I don't know because I can count the number of threads I started on my fingers.
 

Thread Starter

Tonyr1084

Joined Sep 24, 2015
5,070
I tried but couldn't find a delete button for the initial thread.

Funny, I found the solution but it's not working. According to documentation I got off the web I'm supposed to set the control to "SYSTEM OFF" and set the fan to "FAN ONLY", press and hold the two temperature buttons for 5+ seconds and the unit will go into the programming mode from where I can select one of three options: "P4" (four minute presoak), P2 (you can guess) or P0. P0 is what I want but it comes factory set to P4. And after power failures it will reset to P4 every time. But when I do all as prescribed I can't get it to go into program mode. So I can't change the presoak settings (we're talking about a swamp cooler controller. Section "ADJUST TIME OF PRE-START MODE (change Pad Pre-Wet Time)"
 

Thread Starter

Tonyr1084

Joined Sep 24, 2015
5,070
Sorry y'all for the back and forth with this one. I thought I found the solution. It may be time to buy a new unit.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
7,021
You could add another connection to only switch the fan on. Then use a spring wound timer to operate the fan for a while. Simple and easy and no risk of messing things up.
 

Thread Starter

Tonyr1084

Joined Sep 24, 2015
5,070
Can you contact the manufacturer?
No phone. Only email. Reached out to them last night. Probably won't hear back for a few days - if ever.
You could add another connection to only switch the fan on. Then use a spring wound timer to operate the fan for a while. Simple and easy and no risk of messing things up.
Spring wound timer might work for those times when I want to run the fan immediately, but that means adding another J-box on the wall. The cooler is roof mounted and ceiling vented. Not like it's a window unit. Given that the motor is 1/2 horse adding a switch capable of handling that power would be required. But there ARE times when I want the unit on full speed.

One problem comes to mind is that the motor is two speed. If I have it set on high AND have the bypass switch on the high - that may be OK. But if the fan is on low and someone (say - my wife) doesn't check and just switches it on, now the motor is being powered on both High AND Low. I foresee a problem like that happening. I'd rather have the unit control the fan.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
7,021
OK, to have the unit power the fan you will need to open it up and connect wires to the button to bring outside to an external switch. AND, for a solution to the dual speed oops, use a spdt relay to select one speed or the other, with both not being possible.
 

Thread Starter

Tonyr1084

Joined Sep 24, 2015
5,070
Well, I think I'm going to buy a new unit. This one is 10 years old. Still works, but having one that is more user friendly will be best. And while I have the other (older) control, perhaps I can discover a way to use the "Fan Only •", "• Fan/Pump" switch to achieve the very functionality I want. Hopefully the hardware stores haven't put all their swamp cooler accessories away for the winter yet.
 

Thread Starter

Tonyr1084

Joined Sep 24, 2015
5,070
Initially I thought that the time function was a simple RC circuit. Using a push button to bypass the resistor would charge the capacitor and trick the fan ON with the simple push of a tiny PB. But I haven't opened the unit yet, so that's only speculation.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
7,021
It was probably cheaper to include it in the temperature controller software on the dedicated CPU. Hard coded in a flip-chip and then buried under a glob of black epoxy, all on a thin paper-phenolic circuit board. the replacement will use a SMT processor that at least you will be able to see.
If it does not have a dual speed option, my suggestion will still work. I am sure that the blower in the roof portion uses a pilot relay and only 24 volt wires connect them.
What I mean by that is that while the blower and water valve are mains powered that the control connections to the inside portion are 24 volt circuits. Otherwise there would be four heavy AC lines going to the inside control, and I really doubt that.
 
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Thread Starter

Tonyr1084

Joined Sep 24, 2015
5,070
I am sure that the blower in the roof portion uses a pilot relay and only 24 volt wires connect them.
Actually, no. It has full line voltage. One line goes to Fan High, another to Fan Low and a third too Pump. You can turn the pump on and off from the controller. You can have the controller turn the fan on either via the "High" circuit or the "Low" circuit. All is 120 VAC. No control voltages, no relays. I believe the manual (linked above) shows the wiring.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
7,021
OK, O used the link and read the instructions for installation. I am totally amazed, because that is totally different from the normal scheme of things. A royal pain to have to run all of those #14 wires through the wall and attic or wherever.
 

Thread Starter

Tonyr1084

Joined Sep 24, 2015
5,070
A royal pain to have to run all of those #14 wires through the wall and attic or wherever.
Even worse. It's on a 20 amp breaker that also powers a bedroom and a bathroom. All 12 gauge wiring. Had to stay with that. Also a pain because the manual switch was located directly beneath the air outlet, meaning installing a thermostat right there would result in frequent short cycling. I moved the t-stat around the corner to get out of the direct air stream. The unit will run on hot days almost all day long. But at night it still cools the t-stat and short cycles. Conditions like that facilitate the need for replacing the motor every 5 years (approximately). The centrifugal start switch on the motor shaft is where the motors often fail.
 

Thread Starter

Tonyr1084

Joined Sep 24, 2015
5,070
Heard from the manufacturer. Here's what they have to say:

Tony,

Thank you for reaching out to us.

The 7617 (7619A) was created about 4 years ago and is an upgrade to the old 7619.

If you have had this unit for about 10 years, you have the 7619, which does not have the feature to change the pre-wet. You will need to upgrade to the 7617 if you want this feature.

I apologize for the confusion.

cid:image001.png@01D4991F.54686270

Evaporative Cooler Parts &

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