I'm starting to see leaking, or all-out failed polypropylene capacitors, in the horizontal sections and pincushion section of CRT monitors. I'd like to start to stock replacement parts and want to ensure I'm replacing the correct ones, or better.

The ones that are currently in the monitors are the "brown" fat kind, which I don't see exact modern one-to-one replacements. Seems what's available from mouser/digi-key are the "box" polypropylene. Besides the capacitance, working voltage, type (polypropylene), tolerance, and lead spacing, are there any other specifications I need to be aware of?

An example I pulled from the Wells Gardner K7500 parts lists have the specifications of PP in that circuit area:
C718 - Polypropylene, 680pF 1600V 2%
C723 - Polypropylene, 11200pF 1600V 2%
C724 - Polypropylene, .027uF 400V 2%
C720 - Polypropylene, 1000pF 630V 10%

As always, I appreciate the help and education I get from this community.

 

Polypropylene, ???pF 1600V

I probably have 100 pounds of Polypropylene caps. New. Mostly WIMA. Some from Japan.
I used them for "flyback caps" and "S corrections" caps. I designed TV and monitors.
I also have some used in power supplies.
If you can't find what you want, I could go look to see what I have.

11200pF 2% no not that one. Common values 5% 1600V yes.

 

I probably have 100 pounds of Polypropylene caps. New. Mostly WIMA. Some from Japan.
I used them for "flyback caps" and "S corrections" caps. I designed TV and monitors.
I also have some used in power supplies.
If you can't find what you want, I could go look to see what I have.
View attachment 364115
11200pF 2% no not that one. Common values 5% 1600V yes.

Thank you, this is helpful. Is it ok to go to 2kV if I can't get 1600V exactly?

Since you're a TV/Monitor guy, I heard that if the flyback goes bad, it's a good idea to go ahead and replace the saftey/snubber caps. I've not done that unless I've tested it bad, meaning capacitance testing. Not sure if this is overkill or good practice, but love to get your thoughts on it.

Also, I'm thinking of either buying or building a leaky cap tester. I've seen some that run up to 600V and another one that uses low voltage but has sensitive circuits to test for leaks.

 

Is it ok to go to 2kV if I can't get 1600V exactly?

That is good.

I heard that if the flyback goes bad, it's a good idea to go ahead and replace the saftey/snubber caps.

I think you are talking about what I call the flyback caps. Across the horizontal transistor and diode.
I don't see a reason to replace the caps. Measure the value. If the value is smaller than it should be that will increase the voltages. Maybe to a leakage test.

either buying or building a leaky cap tester.

Testing a 1600V cap at 1.5V from an ohmmeter sounds odd. LOL But better than no test.
Sounds like you know how to make a 100V or 600V power supply. You need only micro Amps or something very small. Limit the current with a resistor! No need for a large storage cap! You can get hurt if there is much current.
It would be nice to test the caps at 1/2 rated voltage or 100% of rated. But don't over voltage the cap! Even 100V is better than 1.5V.

 

As always, I appreciate the help and education I get from this community.

Where I live, a CRT has negative value. You have to pay to get rid of it.

So I'm curious, why would you spend time and money on a CRT? Any e-waste dump has flat screen monitors free for the taking.

 

So I'm curious, why would you spend time and money on a CRT?

Working 1947 Rare Antique RCA Victor TV Originally Restored. Mint.,

 

Where I live, a CRT has negative value. You have to pay to get rid of it.

So I'm curious, why would you spend time and money on a CRT? Any e-waste dump has flat screen monitors free for the taking.

could be different reasons. lots of people find retro stuff interesting / nostalgic. some products like arcade games just don't look right on modern monitors - if they even work.