Thank you for all your responses.

As I see many of you think of some different boards.

To illustrate, the pcbs I got look similar to this. You could break them out easily, but I want to automate this process, so you do not to make that by hand.


Reference: https://www.pinterest.de/pin/378302437448964118/

The cutter I describe is a modified guillotine.

I´ve tried this method with a paper cutter, principle of the guillotine and it works too.

In my opinion it would be better to apply the force vertically 90°C downwards.

 

This is what you want.
Here is a cheaper one. They list the price as "Negotiable". I wouldn't expect it to be less than $500.00 (U.S.).

 

To illustrate, the pcbs I got look similar to this. You could break them out easily, but I want to automate this process, so you do not to make that by hand.

Can you show where you want the break to occur in that illustration? It's not real clear where you want it to separate. If it is scored from the PCB company I think I have an idea for you that would be pretty simple to make. But I need to know what part your removing from the multiple PCB strip.

 

This is what you want.
Here is a cheaper one. They list the price as "Negotiable". I wouldn't expect it to be less than $500.00 (U.S.).

I have build something similiar to that, I want something different, because I don´t like the idea of getting a electrical discharge on my components.

Can you show where you want the break to occur in that illustration? It's not real clear where you want it to separate. If it is scored from the PCB company I think I have an idea for you that would be pretty simple to make. But I need to know what part your removing from the multiple PCB strip.

I need to break it at the scored lines. As mentioned, I´ve already tried the gulliotine paper cutter.


Greeting
Liako

 

All shears that I have seen have a slight angle to the blade and hold-downs are needed to prevent the target from twisting either sideways or up and down. (NOTE: The blades usually have a small gap between them so they do not touch a scissor blades do.) You have not shown your board with the fragile components, nor have you answered my question about SMD or TH components. You have said," It is also fragil and has some big components like an antenna on the edge. "

For an unpopulated board than can be clamped to a platform, shearing would still be a good option. Given your situation, one might consider a press brake dimensioned to your needs. Compared to a shear, they are easier to build:


The bottom die supports the target piece. Your PCB is already scored, so I would mill a slot in the die like this:


Of course dimensions would need to be appropriate for your board -- maybe 1/4" ( 6 mm) with a slot of 3 mm. The top die would need an appropriate taper. Press brakes give a lot of bending force and do not require the piece to be clamped as both edges are supported. I have used mild steel for the bottom die in a non-production device. For the top die, you probably want some stronger steel. It does not need to be hardened, just tough.

If the bottom of your board has no components, I would also consider a small, table saw. I have an older Micro-Mark 4" with narrow kerf blade that works well.

Finally, a mill with a V-shaped bit can deepen the groove enough so the edges come off more easily. Or, use a regular cutter to mill away the edges completely. However, a large mill will require the piece to be clamped unless your boards can be run past the cutter by hand as with a router mounted upside down in a table with a back fence.

 

I don´t like the idea of getting a electrical discharge on my components.

All metal base, slide and cutters don't produce static. As with all electronics handling equipment - grounding is the way to prevent static from becoming an issue. The links I posted must be grounded or on a grounding mat. Preferably they should be directly grounded through a 1 MEG to 10 MEG resistor. You don't ground directly because of the potential danger of an operator becoming energized somehow and then touching something that is solidly grounded.

 

1) How do plan NOT breaking/cutting the blue-circled section while cutting all the other red lines?
2) how are the green-circled sections attached to the frame, or are they actually floating unconnected? If floating, what company is making this board?

 

You have not shown your board with the fragile components, nor have you answered my question about SMD or TH components.

The board is populated on one side with SMD.
The thickness of the rigid flex is 0.65mm.

The picture shows 2 out of 8 pcbs.

1) How do plan NOT breaking/cutting the blue-circled section while cutting all the other red lines?
2) how are the green-circled sections attached to the frame, or are they actually floating unconnected? If floating, what company is making this board?

This picture was just an illustration from the web. My pcbs look similar, but still different, they do not have scored lines in the middle. In the middle you have the flex part. The next scored line is at the bottom, same like as the image showed. But my intention is to cut it only on the showed site.

The blue circled section should be also cut, I forgot to mark it.

 

John's idea is real similar to what I had in mind. But it could be made with round rod pieces instead of a milled part, I'll sketch something up and post tomorrow.

 

@Liako, Are the boards V-scored or perforated (mouse bites/stamp edge)?

 

@Liako , just noticed you said these are rigid flex boards, does the area you want to break have the flex material in it?

 

@Liako , just noticed you said these are rigid flex boards, does the area you want to break have the flex material in it?

In my previous message I attached an image of my pcb. The flex material is in the middle of the pcb, you do not have to cut there.

@Liako, Are the boards V-scored or perforated (mouse bites/stamp edge)?

It is V-scored.

I added the image again.

 

I found this video:

Could be interesting for all of us.

 

The answer is obvious, just get a "cheap" laser cutter.

As for the guillotine, the one one shown is similar to the brake I drew. At 1:11 :


That is, the bottom of the board is supported on both sides. The problem you have is that some of your components are very close to the edge, Since you seem mainly to want to remove the edges, I would consider offsetting the top die/cutter from its supports. That is, assume you use 20 (0.9 mm) or 22 (.076 mm) gauge SS for the that piece. If it were attached to the side of a 4 mm steel plate with minimal overhang , it would be quite stiff, yet allow you to get access to the score past the nearby components.

 

You need a new board manufacturer. PCBway does V-scoring so you can easily bend to separate. If all of your components are on one side, you could also consider using metal core PCB. Aluminum metal core boards are scored very deeply and a single 30° bend requires very little pressure and breaks to a perfectly clean edge. PCBway has only a very small surcharge for aluminum MCPCB - significantly higher for copper core.

 

In my previous message I attached an image of my pcb. The flex material is in the middle of the pcb, you do not have to cut there.

That answer is very misleading to me. By "middle of the PCB" what do you mean? The middle is where they put the flex material, as a center layer between two or more hard layers. Like a sandwich, with the flex being the filling. I guess the question from me should have been, is there flex material in the part that you want to break? If there is flex material all through the center of the layers the problem gets harder to solve.

Also is there a similar hard PCB on the other side of what you are showing? Why not just show a picture of the whole PCB panel? Honestly we don't care about your invention or what ever the PCB is for, we just want to help solve a problem.

 

If you have the boards, please show a photo of the whole thing, not just the score line.