On / Off switch without cutting voltage supply (project pics)

Thread Starter

Ziggler

Joined Jun 2, 2019
23
Having a hard time in my head on how to explain this. This is an overhead computer readout that had the tiny 168 sockets for lights. LED's in them still weren't bright enough.
So whipped up this reflection box to hold two 'Festoon' 500 lumens / 10000k per led LEDS. Refraction covers still go on them :p

Anyways, on wiring, can be simply tied into the existing 12v that turn on / off when opening the door and dimmer control. But the old light style had a 'push cover' that turned on / off each light when needed, independently from the door opening . - Not anymore.....

So how do I wire a switch so that they are always getting their voltage for when the doors are open and turn off when closed. (like factory)
But - when I want to flip the switch, both lights can be turned on manually at the same time - independent from when the doors are opened. Like turning them both on / off without having to open the doors.
Is it a switch with a third pole or something?
I really hope this makes sense.
Thank you!!!

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scorbin1

Joined Dec 24, 2019
45
You should be able to wire up a switch connecting +12V from battery(through a fuse of course) and wire that in parallel with the switched 12V from the doors. When the switch is on the lights are on, regardless of the door status. If the switch is off and the doors are open, the door switches should turn the lights on.
 

Thread Starter

Ziggler

Joined Jun 2, 2019
23
You should be able to wire up a switch connecting +12V from battery(through a fuse of course) and wire that in parallel with the switched 12V from the doors. When the switch is on the lights are on, regardless of the door status. If the switch is off and the doors are open, the door switches should turn the lights on.
I did over think it, I think hehhe.
So its just constant / separate voltage to the switch, then to the lights. So if the switch is off and the door is opened, lights still come on.
If the doors are closed and switch is turned on, the LED's get their own 12v. I did over think this, Thank YOU!!

Found a 4 pole stainless that can be wired so the LED ring is always on too.
Thanks Scorbin!

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Reloadron

Joined Jan 15, 2015
5,667
Just keep in mind, when you parallel two or more switches. Any switch will power your load (lights) but for the lights to be off both switches need to be off. When any switch is On the lights will be on. As long as that scheme works for you.

Ron
 

Tonyr1084

Joined Sep 24, 2015
5,260
Old school dome lights had constant power. The door switches applied ground when doors were open. If this is what you have then this circuit works. It just has an SPST switch that will also provide ground when thrown. In the position shown the lights would be on. WARNING: Leaving the lights on means killing your battery.
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Thread Starter

Ziggler

Joined Jun 2, 2019
23
Just keep in mind, when you parallel two or more switches. Any switch will power your load (lights) but for the lights to be off both switches need to be off. When any switch is On the lights will be on. As long as that scheme works for you.

Ron
Thanks Ron. I was thinking simply, just run dedicated 12v (from bat or fuse block) separate from the voltage on the door pins straight to the switch. As though the other wiring wasn't there.

Thanks!
 

Thread Starter

Ziggler

Joined Jun 2, 2019
23
Old school dome lights had constant power. The door switches applied ground when doors were open. If this is what you have then this circuit works. It just has an SPST switch that will also provide ground when thrown. In the position shown the lights would be on. WARNING: Leaving the lights on means killing your battery.
View attachment 218352
Thats right, applies the ground, not the voltage after the pin is closed, forgot about that heheh. Nice diagram, I'll use it! Thanks a bunch Tony!!
Nice name, Tony here too... I dont think Illl be forgetting to turn off when manual 'on'. Its four 500 lumen 10000k led's each. ;)

Yikes, just found out before ordering that light switch was momentary (push and hold for voltage).
Better, switched, and can be wired for LED always on:

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MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
7,327
It looks like there were lights of some kind in those positions before. Why not use the power wires that fed them? And if the door switch also controls other lights then grounding the door switch wire will light all of them.

That very nice looking switch we see looks a lot like the very recent ad for a vandal resistant switch that I saw yesterday.
 

Reloadron

Joined Jan 15, 2015
5,667
Thanks Ron. I was thinking simply, just run dedicated 12v (from bat or fuse block) separate from the voltage on the door pins straight to the switch. As though the other wiring wasn't there.

Thanks!
That should work. Just be sure, as mentioned, there is fusing behind anything you add or modify.

Ron
 

Thread Starter

Ziggler

Joined Jun 2, 2019
23
It looks like there were lights of some kind in those positions before. Why not use the power wires that fed them? And if the door switch also controls other lights then grounding the door switch wire will light all of them.

That very nice looking switch we see looks a lot like the very recent ad for a vandal resistant switch that I saw yesterday.
Yes, indeed there were lights there before with the wiring, I thought about it yesterday too, tap off the same damn wires :D Mentally I had to quit thinking (habit) that the 12v was switched, as mentioned above, its not, all the 12v supply wires are constant, and in the dome lamp in the middle of the cab - its the ground thats switched ;)
Got lucky on that switch, had it over nighted, tomorrow it goes in.

I'll post pictures - I haven't seen anyone with five of these 10000k, 500 lumen LED's in the interior.
Did a custom fit festoon socket holder and reflective tape in the center dome lamp. Two in the over head console, and did two custom brackets for under the dash, passenger and drivers side (no factory lighting there). Ran the wiring up the A pillar (parallel) , tomorrow first light up and the switch!

Should light up the interior of my truck something fierce hehh.
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Tonyr1084

Joined Sep 24, 2015
5,260
Drove a van for a company called "Lighting Services" in Connecticut. That was back in 83. Had a bank of maps (paper). At night the little dome light was not sufficient for lighting up the maps. So I took the remnants of an emergency lighting fixture that had been removed because of failure and I wired the flood light (12V) from that into the dome light.

One night driving out of Virginia, trying to get out of town before a hurricane hit - I was all alone on a rain soaked highway. Speed limit was 55. I was driving 55. Use of Radar Detectors was illegal. Didn't know it but I passed a cop who saw me come, doing 55, pass doing 55 and maintaining 55. So he came after me with his lights OFF. No, I didn't misquote myself, I said ALL his lights were off. Pulled up along side me on the highway. After looking in my truck for signs of a radar detector and saw none he turned his lights on. Seeing him there - I flipped on my interior "Flood" light and illuminated the entire cabin. Me, eating doughnuts while driving. He left me alone.
 
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