Hi,
I am in a search of a microscope for SMD soldering. The one I currently possess is from Amazon.com : 2K LCD Digital Microscope 1200X, Dcorn 7" 24MP HDMI Microscope, Soldering Coin Microscope with Lights, Extension Tube & 32GB Card Included, Coin Magnifier with Light : Electronics , but it doesn't provide clear visibility for soldering joints, especially for 0201 parts. Despite searching on Google, I haven't been able to find a more suitable option. I am not interested in digital microscopes due to a previous negative experience.
I would greatly appreciate your assistance if you have the time. Thank you in advance!

 

What I use.
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/camera-for-taking-pcb-pictures.169736/post-1511842

 

It's kind of "old school", but I prefer the Bausch & Lomb (Leica) "Stereo Zoom" series of microscopes with a ring light. I have used several variants, but my preferred choice is the 0.7X to 3.0X head with 10X eyepieces, mounted on the boom base. It will typically have about a 2.5" working distance depending on the exact magnification used. (Lower magnification = greater working distance.)

The big advantage of a stereo microscope over a monocular microscope is your ability to judge depth, which is really handy when you are trying to carefully place a part or solder the part. While it is usual to remove eyeglasses when using a microscope, I found that you can still use one with glasses on, but the eyepieces have to have the correct separation, which is easily adjustable with these microscopes. It also takes a little bit to develop a fine eye-hand coordination because of the typically 10X magnification really shows up any hand shake. After using one for a while, the hand shake will reduce by about 10X. Of course the ring light gives very even illumination without shadows. On the rare occasions where you need some shadowing to increase the contrast, a separate point-source light can be added.

 

A whole bunch of people don't know how to properly focus the zoom feature. They tend to crank down the ocular lenses then use the focus to focus on the work piece. But when you zoom in (or out) the focus drastically changes. The right way to set up a stereo zoom is to first focus on a piece, then zoom to the max setting, then focus again. Then zoom out but not touch the focus, rather adjust the ocular lenses till the image is properly focused. This allows for each eye to have its own focal range. Now when you focus, zooming will not change the focus. One of my pet peeves.

 

Then zoom out but not touch the focus, rather adjust the ocular lenses till the image is properly focused. This allows for each eye to have its own focal range. Now when you focus, zooming will not change the focus. One of my pet peeves.

Agreed about the misuse of the zoom/focus. Usually, only one eyepiece (ocular lens?) is adjustable; the other is fixed focus. When I first sit down to a new microscope, I gently close my eye on the adjustable eyepiece and adjust the main focus at maximum zoom. I then gently close the other eye and adjust the adjustable eyepiece for the best focus. I check overall focus and repeat if necessary. I emphasized gently closing the eye because if you close your eye under muscle strain, you are likely to change the shape of your eyeball slightly for a short period of time after opening your eye again, thus changing the normal focal point of your eye for a bit.

 

For a good optical magnifier check Edmund Scientific. Not at all cheap, but quite honest as to what they are selling and what it's specifications are.They used to sell a fantastic lens and camera combination that would fill a screen with your 0201 component, along with the fiber optic cable to illuminate it. I bought that camera/lens/ F/O cable for $10 at a swap from somebody who had no idea what it was. Best gamble ever.

 

While the digital camera based microscopes are pretty good value for the dollar, I have found that for SMD work a binocular scope is critical. The stereoscopic view makes interpreting the image considerably easier.

The "standard" for the industry is the Mantis. It's a stereo microscope but it used a large, ground glass projection screen instead of oculars (eye pieces). It's not cheap (~$1200), but it's very, very good. If you've used one you will know what I mean.

plus, you can look like some kind of futuristic inspection zombie doing... something​

I have an AmScope, which I like. They are a very good value with a range of options. I definitely recommend the sliding boom mount, which is a bit more expensive but much better.

​

 

When I first sit down to a new microscope, I gently close my eye on the adjustable eyepiece and adjust the main focus at maximum zoom.

Every stereo zoom scope I've ever used have had both ocular pieces adjustable. Not so on my binoculars. Usually the left lens is fixed and the right is adjustable to make up the difference between the eyes. One place I worked someone super bonded the eye pieces fully tightened down. You couldn't make any adjustments. And if your eyes weren't a perfect match - using that scope was straining and resulted in headaches. Plus the zoom and focus were never tracking parallel. You always had to adjust the focus every time you did any zooming. And if you held parts in hand, the difference between 0.7X and 40X was staggering.

If you've used one

I have. Found it a bit uncomfortable for working on the table while looking straight ahead. At least with the scope you had some muscle input in relation to your hands and tools. Yes, the Mantis IS a fantastic tool. But IMO it's not good for solder work.

 

What I use.

Do you have the Image Mate 4 software? I just bought an LX-1 on ebay. The manual says to download the program, but they don't seem to have it available for download.

I downloaded ELMO Interactive Toolbox.

 

Do you have the Image Mate 4 software? I just bought an LX-1 on ebay. The manual says to download the program, but they don't seem to have it available for download.

I downloaded ELMO Interactive Toolbox.

Try here: https://www.elmoeurope.com/en/download_software_de-de/
ImageMate4 version 4.05 – Slim software for camera settings and for displaying the image in windows. *Only compatible to ELMO visualisers

 

I tried many USB microscope models and them sucks all - simply objective must stay so near to the soldering place, that there are no place for hands. Other thing is photographic scanner sold under 1/2 second per scan label. It indeed allow about 25 cm distance to pcb and have real-time video regime, but at maximum magnification the resolution is not enough. Thus I fell back to old but effective optical choice. Just buy at the chinch market one old russian binocular microscope for some 25 dollars, and eliminate the lower lense. The effect of that is the focal distance changes from 3 mm to 15 cm and magnification degrades from 3000 to about 20-50, what is absolutely enough. By the way, in the picture microscope is adjusted on natural working height.

 

My LX-1 from ebay was delivered today. Very Nice condition.



USB to Linux image viewer.

 

My LX-1 from ebay was delivered today. Very Nice condition.

I thought you already had one. Mine arrived yesterday and I just tested it. Didn't come with a power source and it took me a day to find a plug adapter...

 

I thought you already had one. Mine arrived yesterday and I just tested it. Didn't come with a power source and it took me a day to find a plug adapter...

I have one at work that I use for most things, this is a personal one. Mine came with all the parts, thanks for the info on a good deal.

 

I need a new scope. I have one of these KKMOON G1200 12MP 1-1200X Digital Microscope. The bottom ring has adjustable LEDs but something isn't right with it and I can't get good surface lighting even with external lighting. Something in the camera itself is wonky and adding light just makes it black out the image. It does connect to my camera software on Win10 and has a SIM card as well to record on. But it just doesn't work as it should or as I would like it to. It is compact and I could replace the camera/display on the base if needed to. If it displayed the image in the advertising, I'd be very happy! Open to suggestions, new or used.

Here is a typical of what I get from it which is way too dark to be useful!

 

Open to suggestions, new or used.

I bought an Elmo LX-1 on eBay for $48. Think it was shipped (free) from your neck of the woods.

 

I see them without cables or power supplies. But is it only a USB cable and a 5V barrel plug PSU? Do they have illumination or depend on external lighting? I guess I should look up the manual PDF...

Edit Got one from eBay for 49USD w/o cables or PSU. Got plenty of both...

 

Illumination from the TT-L1 lamp in a dark room. Guvcview screen capture.

 

But is it only a USB cable and a 5V barrel plug PSU?

The power jack isn't the more common 2.1mmX5.5mm. It's 1.3mmX3.5mm.

The unit has VGA, HDMI, and USB outputs. You have more functionality with USB and the Image Mate 4 mentioned in the manual.

 

I also have a bunch of power plug adapters or I can rewire one in the two buckets full of wall warts... I am such a packrat! I already downloaded the manual and the software. Arghh 7W spec and all mine are 1A. Ordered 2A. Thanks for the heads-us Dennis!