One vote against liquid nails.
It creeps under tension and even fails at holding paneling on walls after a few years.

I have used spray glue as a background for aluminum tape and it makes all the difference.
You see, old aluminum duct boards get a layer of aluminum oxide that peels right off. The spray glue consolidates that layer and then the new tape sticks properly.

 

"..old aluminum duct boards get a layer of aluminum oxide that peels right off."

Yes--All metals get that microscopic layer, especially aluminum.
Most steels, start rusting as soon as it's cleaned.

Clean everything on both surfaces, before gluing.

I usually use naphtha, with 7440, 3M pads; for cleaning metals and other items..

 

"..old aluminum duct boards get a layer of aluminum oxide that peels right off."

Yes--All metals get that microscopic layer, especially aluminum.
Most steels, start rusting as soon as it's cleaned.

Clean everything on both surfaces, before gluing.

I usually use naphtha, with 7440, 3M pads; for cleaning metals and other items..

Aluminum, high-strength steel (various heat treatments with high carbon), polypropylene, polyethylene and soft/flexible PVC (vinyl) are all very difficult to glue. Surface treatment immediately before bonding help but, since everyone does it slightly differently, it becomes difficult to specify strength of the adhesive.

Automotive is begging for consistently strong adhesives that do not require surface prep. The idea is that a bead of glue gives no weak points while screws and rivets loosen over time and result in a single weak point in an accident.
Also interesting, robots that extrude glue are much cheaper than robots that turn screws.

 

Any test results to share Augustin?

Here's mine:
I tested 2 products, Woodweld "Original" Contact Cement, and Loctite 200 spray adhesive for bond strength from foam to foam and from foam to bare, primed, and primed+painted "paintable" Masonite (tempered hardboard). I followed the directions on the adhesive label for both products exactly. The primer I used was Zinsser Oil Based Spray Primer and the paint was Rustoleum Florescent Yellow spray paint.

I found that both the contact cement and the spray adhesive bonded to all surfaces (foam-foam, foam-bare, -painted, -primed) strong enough that the foam would rip before the bond would fail. However, the spray adhesive would stretch up to 1/2" away from the glued surface when I attempted to peel the foam from a corner, while the contact cement had no give at all. I feel the contact cement had a better bond and more desirable for my application, however if you need a lot of flexibility the loctite may be better for you.

Also worth noting, I found that the chief retailer of this product (the "Kaizen" foam that I purchased) recommends the glue that they sell, 2P-10 2-part 10sec cure glue. If you click the Kaizen Foam link and click on the "videos" tab there are lots of helpful tips to working with the foam, including how to use the 2P-10 glue. I am going with the contact cement that I already purchased, but I think I may get some of this glue in the future as it seems to be a very versatile, very strong glue. I did research it and found nothing but good reviews. I found professionals in woodworking forums saying that it will bond wood so strong that if you attempt to separate it, the wood will separate before the glue gives. Also apparently it will glue anything to anything, stronger than gorilla glue, and cures in 10 seconds after the activator is sprayed on.

Also also worth noting, I found that using the primer I mentioned above, you can paint the foam and the surface remains flexible and does not crack and peel when you bend/mash the foam. At least it is still flexible after 18 hours; maybe after 18 months or 18 years it will be different.

 

Nom time yet to test anything, strantor.

I have just the contact cement handy. On May 1st I will check how it works and post the outcome.