Many, if not most of you already know this, but for those who don't I really want to point it out.

When I was younger, soldering was not only all about large, through hole components, but my vision was nearly perfect. In my 30's I developed a noticeable astigmatism, and as components sizes shrank, my ability to resolve details also diminished, particularly when dealing with highly specular objects like solder joints.

I use magnifiers and they helped, but SMD was a serious struggle and, while I had access to a Mantis at work, I really shied away from trying to solder what seemed like grains of sand to my PCBs.

Well, when I decided that I really needed to be able to do it, I got a decent, though not very high end, stereomicroscope. Let me tell you, it is a game changer. The picture below shows the tip I've been using, very successfully, thanks to the scope. If you want to do SMD, and you can afford a couple hundred dollars, this will change how you see (pun intended) rework and new board building.

I've included a 5mm LED for scale.

I really never would have believed I'd have a use for something so small, but, there it is.

 

Many, if not most of you already know this, but for those who don't I really want to point it out.

When I was younger, soldering was not only all about large, through hole components, but my vision was nearly perfect. In my 30's I developed a noticeable astigmatism, and as components sizes shrank, my ability to resolve details also diminished, particularly when dealing with highly specular objects like solder joints.

I use magnifiers and they helped, but SMD was a serious struggle and, while I had access to a Mantis at work, I really shied away from trying to solder what seemed like grains of sand to my PCBs.

Well, when I decided that I really needed to be able to do it, I got a decent, though not very high end, stereomicroscope. Let me tell you, it is a game changer. The picture below shows the tip I've been using, very successfully, thanks to the scope. If you want to do SMD, and you can afford a couple hundred dollars, this will change how you see (pun intended) rework and new board building.

I've included a 5mm LED for scale.

I really never would have believed I'd have a use for something so small, but, there it is.

View attachment 173849

Brand/model?

 

The color of that photo is misleading. There is no oxidation on the iron nor on the caliper jaws, though it looks like there is.

 

Brand/model?

Mine is an AmScope: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C75IVM/

It is a very good value, much better than I had hoped.

I am seriously considering upgrading to the zoom version with the better boom arm. It's much more costly, but if I was buying today, I would buy it.

 

Mine is an AmScope: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C75IVM/

It is a very good value, much better than I had hoped.

I am seriously considering upgrading to the zoom version with the better boom arm. It's much more costly, but if I was buying today, I would buy it.

Nice! Very inexpensive and from what I can tell from the reviews worth every penny. I don't actually do any EE anymore (my six month or so stint was just for the sake of curiosity) but something like this would be perfect just to have around the house for whatever, repairing a watch or what have you.

 

Nice! Very inexpensive and from what I can tell from the reviews worth every penny. I don't actually do any EE anymore (my six month or so stint was just for the sake of curiosity) but something like this would be perfect just to have around the house for whatever, repairing a watch or what have you.

I used it to remove an otherwise invisible fiberglass splinter from my thumb yesterday.

 

I used it to remove an otherwise invisible fiberglass splinter from my thumb yesterday.

I learned the hard way as a youth just how dangerous fiberglass can be. Spent several weeks removing splinters after playing around with the stuff with a cousin of mine. What a nightmare that was...

 

One of the offices where I contract has a slightly fancier but very similar microscope, and it is most definitely worth every penny IMHO. Side note; I find that I do not use the highest magnification. "Big enough" (for lack of a better term) is perfect, too big is actually more difficult.

 

One of the offices where I contract has a slightly fancier but very similar microscope, and it is most definitely worth every penny IMHO. Side note; I find that I do not use the highest magnification. "Big enough" (for lack of a better term) is perfect, too big is actually more difficult.

This has 10x and 20x eyepieces. The 20x i rarely useful, the 10x is great. The working distance is impressive.

 

...Side note; I find that I do not use the highest magnification. "Big enough" (for lack of a better term) is perfect, too big is actually more difficult.

and

The 20x i rarely useful, the 10x is great.

I agree, sometimes the higher magnification limits the field of view. This can be dangerous if you're holding a part with your finger and trying to locate the soldering iron in the microscope.

 

I used it to remove an otherwise invisible fiberglass splinter from my thumb yesterday.

I use tape to remove small splinters. Any type handy. Has worked every time I've tried it; so far...

 

Many, if not most of you already know this, but for those who don't I really want to point it out.

When I was younger, soldering was not only all about large, through hole components, but my vision was nearly perfect. In my 30's I developed a noticeable astigmatism, and as components sizes shrank, my ability to resolve details also diminished, particularly when dealing with highly specular objects like solder joints.

I use magnifiers and they helped, but SMD was a serious struggle and, while I had access to a Mantis at work, I really shied away from trying to solder what seemed like grains of sand to my PCBs.

Well, when I decided that I really needed to be able to do it, I got a decent, though not very high end, stereomicroscope. Let me tell you, it is a game changer. The picture below shows the tip I've been using, very successfully, thanks to the scope. If you want to do SMD, and you can afford a couple hundred dollars, this will change how you see (pun intended) rework and new board building.

I've included a 5mm LED for scale.

I really never would have believed I'd have a use for something so small, but, there it is.

View attachment 173849

My experience was similar. I picked up a couple of stereo microscopes from the TRW facility when they went out of business, along with a couple of MetCal stations, and those are perhaps the two single best investments in equipment I have every made.

When we have adequate visual feedback, it's amazing the accuracy and precision we are able to bring to our work. I've soldered 0201 parts with those tools, despite barely being able to see them with the naked eye (at least my naked eyes).

I use them even for soldering 100 mil pitch through-hole devices, too. Not because I can't solder them without it, but because it is much more comfortable and I get much better results. What looks acceptable under magnification looks pristine without it.

 

I use them even for soldering 100 mil pitch through-hole devices, too. Not because I can't solder them without it, but because it is much more comfortable and I get much better results. What looks acceptable under magnification looks pristine without it.

I concur, I use the scope for through hole because I love the perfect joints that a are possible. I also have a 5 diopter LED magnifier light of decent quality and sometimes use that, and, I can very highly recommend them, a set of Donegan OptiVisors which are really very good.

 

I use tape to remove small splinters. Any type handy. Has worked every time I've tried it; so far...

This one was really hard to deal with. It just wouldn't come out. I could hardly see it, even under the scope, but I finally found it and even though the tweezer tips make it look like I was trying to pull a hair with tree trunks, I got it out.

 

Many, if not most of you already know this, but for those who don't I really want to point it out.

When I was younger, soldering was not only all about large, through hole components, but my vision was nearly perfect. In my 30's I developed a noticeable astigmatism, and as components sizes shrank, my ability to resolve details also diminished, particularly when dealing with highly specular objects like solder joints.

I use magnifiers and they helped, but SMD was a serious struggle and, while I had access to a Mantis at work, I really shied away from trying to solder what seemed like grains of sand to my PCBs.

Well, when I decided that I really needed to be able to do it, I got a decent, though not very high end, stereomicroscope. Let me tell you, it is a game changer. The picture below shows the tip I've been using, very successfully, thanks to the scope. If you want to do SMD, and you can afford a couple hundred dollars, this will change how you see (pun intended) rework and new board building.

I've included a 5mm LED for scale.

I really never would have believed I'd have a use for something so small, but, there it is.

View attachment 173849

I share your pain... oh man. I wear glasses,and I have a clip-on triple magnifier (lets me adjust magnification by using1-3 lenses with one another or flipped up out of the way if not using a lens). But it makes my heavy glasses heavier, and tends to slide down my nose and isn't ideal- can still be really hard to see super small joints or soldering issues unless I turn the board 'just so' in the light. I've even used an old 50mm Cannon zoom lens and I look through it in reverse.

I'm definitely going to check out the steroscope- Thank YOU for posting.

 

I share your pain... oh man. I wear glasses,and I have a clip-on triple magnifier (lets me adjust magnification by using1-3 lenses with one another or flipped up out of the way if not using a lens). But it makes my heavy glasses heavier, and tends to slide down my nose and isn't ideal- can still be really hard to see super small joints or soldering issues unless I turn the board 'just so' in the light. I've even used an old 50mm Cannon zoom lens and I look through it in reverse.

I'm definitely going to check out the steroscope- Thank YOU for posting.

If it actually helps you, that's the reward for talking about it. Also, look at Donegan OptiVisor as a replacement for your clip on. The best head worn magnifier, very old school and every jeweler and machinist has them.

 

Have you guys ever tried this type of thing, like what dentists and surgeons use? In my head I imagine being able to see those small parts clearly, but from a comfortable distance away. But I've never had the opportunity to try one due to the price.

Edit --> I've got this cheap $15 amazon version of the OptiVisor and the magnification is great, unfortunately the focal length is so short that you've basically got the soldering iron inches from your face. So I find it very useful for inspection, but less than ideal for actually working on boards.

 

Have you guys ever tried this type of thing, like what dentists and surgeons use? In my head I imagine being able to see those small parts clearly, but from a comfortable distance away. But I've never had the opportunity to try one due to the price.

Edit --> I've got this cheap $15 amazon version of the OptiVisor and the magnification is great, unfortunately the focal length is so short that you've basically got the soldering iron inches from your face. So I find it very useful for inspection, but less than ideal for actually working on boards.

The dentist type magnifier has a working distance just too long to be useful to me. It's designed to work at about arm's length, I need it about 60% of that.

The magnifier working distance on the OptiVisor is inversely proportional to the number of diopters of the lenses. Lower power will get you more distance, but of course, it might not be enough to help you at that point.

 

By the way, you can get those surgical loupes at startlingly cheap prices on Amazon with lots of reviews from dentists and dental students saying they are very good.

Might be worth trying if you think you can use the working distance.

 

Just following up- I was not wow'ed by some of the reviews I read on Amazon regarding AmScope, and their shipping practices or return practices. I would definitely look around given the price, if for no other reason but to gain a little education on options and objectivity on pricing. There are several outfits offering good pricing (or more, but steeply discounted for what I suspect is higher quality gear), with lifetime warranties or 5 year warranties at least but excellent reviews.

A couple possibles--

bolioptics.com
microscope.com

For certain though, I know what my birthday present for myself is going to be this year...