I have a radio with a touch power button and the lead to the main board appears to be a 13 pin FFC with 'static drains' (according to The AI). It doesn't appear to be working. If I fiddle with it the power button lights up occasionally. I have not yet removed it completely becasue the other end is glued in.

How can you make one of these (or buy one)?
I assume that the silver tape wrapped around the FFC is conductive.
Where do the extra-long traces that are folded back come from? It looks like they are a second layer (zoom in closely).

I can probably just get an unshielded one, but I figure the shielding is important!

 

An "FFC" ??? I am not familiar with that abbreviation for whatever it might be.
If somehow manipulating the connection can cause the system to momentarily function, then a very good guess is an intermittant connection. That could possibly be a failed solder joint, or a break in a conductor in the cable.
It looks like the connector portion suffers from an oxide buildup, which may require a bit of cleaning to remove.

 

FFC - Flat Flex Cable

 

hi Hal.
That folded back track grounds that screen covering.
This link is what a Google image source displayed.
E
https://www.google.com/search?vsrid...subts=1785917448901&biw=1163&bih=611&hl=en-GB

Added a link. @HAL2100
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Unifizz-Flexible-Ribbon-Opposite-Direction/dp/B09Q8CF44K

 

Thanks. I did the same, but the responses are general FFCs. I could see a couple with what looks like silver tape stuck to one side, but not the folded-back connectors. They're the tricky bit.

 

Hi Hal.
Closest I can find is this, it has the same part number as your cable.
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Added FFC shielding link, @HAL2100
May help if you have to make up your own cable.

https://uk.farnell.com/wurth-elektr...-ROAS&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22875652989

 

hi Hal.
You may find this flexible aluminium shielding tape helpful if you have to make your own cable screen.
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https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=self+adhesive+aluminium+tape

 

Thanks. I have some copper adhesive tape that I can use for the shielding, but I still don't understand how the 2 outside tracks that are earthed to the shielding are formed. I'm sure I can add a very small bit of copper tape, or maybe scrape off the protection over top of those two tracks further back to allow only those two to connect to the shield.

 

Duplicating the flexible printed cable is not a hobby-class possibility. Being able to purchase a replacement at a reasonable price is even less likely.

 

Hi All, Thanks for the suggestions. I have solved the problem.
Taking a punt that the problem was the end of the FFC going into the socket, I cut off about 5mm from the end of the FFC with a pair of sharp scissors, leaving the two peeled back 'earth' connections in place. I then used a scalpel to scrape off the plastic over the leads to uncover another 5mm of 'new' connection. I then reattached the plastic support with superglue to the back of the cable. Et voila! It works perfectly.