Im new here and was hoping i posted this in the right section. My daughter has a 12v dodge viper and has a few issues. First off, the relays click when i select high speed or in reverse. Im hoping to change out relays but upon taking off circuit board it looks like the relays are soldered on the board. Il post a picture.

And another issue i have is one of the motors wire leads broke off flush with the motor.... i would love to fix this but not sure how if at all possible. Thanks in advance willing to share their insights

 

Welcome to AAC!

It will be difficult to reconnect to the motor. Check the part number on your motor and find the matching replacement.

 

Yea, fixing that motor would involve opening it up and replacing the lug.

And, I would definitely clean that relay board.

 

Thank you for quick replies. Much appreciated. Have you ever come across a relay that was glued to the board?? Essentially non replaceable?? I tried to pry between the relays and the board was bending. Thanks

 

Are they not soldered to the boards?

Where are the coil connections?

 

They must be. There are two big soldered marks for each of the four relays. Do i heat them up with my gun and simply pull off the board? Thanks again, im a complete rookie when it comes to this stuff

 

Those are the coil connections.

Yes, you need to de-solder the connections.

 

They will be easier to remove if you remove the solder from the joints with a solder sucker, or solder wick.

The relays clicking is not necessarily a sign that they are faulty.

 

First off, the relays click when i select high speed or in reverse.

Are we to take it that this isn't normal? What are the relays controlling? Is there any chance that they're being opened and closed to control something (like speed)?

 

First off, the relays click when i select high speed or in reverse.

Relays click, it's what the do. Why do you suspect a relay problem? What should be looked at is what happens when the relays click? I would be looking at things like motor voltage and polarity when the relays click. Replacing faulty relays is fine but I would be making sure the relays were faulty before the torture of yanking them off the board.

Ron

 

Thanks guys. This is golden..... il make sure there no good before replacing them. I thought when they clicked they were no good....
Il troubleshoot with my tester and go fromthere. Im so glad i asked here first. The ground looks somewhat questionable as well. Il post back here after my findings. Its on my daughters pink dodge viper. Only reason why i wanna keep it is because its not all plastic, the frame is metal, its built sturdy and a quality toy unlike what walmart has.

 

The ground looks somewhat questionable as well.

That could be interrupting power to the relay coils and causing the contact chatter.

 

Had a similar thought as @dl324 has.

Relays click ON or OFF. They click when they actuate. However, your comment about clicking is unclear to me. I'm thinking of clicking like the starter solenoid on my old Ford Granada. It had a solenoid on the fender that applied power to the starter when you turned the key to start. If the battery was low it would not start the car but it would click rapidly and continuously until you either stopped trying to start the car OR until the battery was dead.

The motor will need to be replaced. I've had those units. You might be able to find one that someone is selling on one of those websites that people sell stuff. I had three of those ride on toys for my kids when they were young. I swapped lots of motors and gear boxes because kids are tough on those things. But what I found was the most common failure on the ones my kids had was the pedal switches. But back then they didn't use a board and relays.

Those relays are soldered to the board. You're not going to just pull them off. You have to remove the solder OR find a way to heat up all the solder on that relay at the same time. I've done that on other projects. Solder suckers are fairly good, but there's almost always a trace of solder still holding the lead down. You COULD pull the lead out of the relay OR you could damage the board trying to get it loose. Same is true with Solder Wick. But usually you can wiggle the lead until it comes loose from the board, then the relay should come out real easy. UNLESS they epoxied it down. Don't know why they'd do that - it's a wasted manufacturing step that adds no value to the product. So I don't think it's epoxied to the board.

Still, before performing any rework - FULLY DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM. Otherwise you may be fixing something that is not broken.

 

Murphys law..... just when i need my tester the black lead decides to quit.. i watched a few videos and w comments here, im gaining confidence that the relays are good. Im happy for that
5 yr olds dont understand broken, here dad take my plastic wrench and fix it, i wanna go for a ride... lol