I though I'd report back since anyways my back is not allowing me to move very far from the computer...
Due to me being cheap, I did not buy new fancy toys to do it...
I need a back transplant now...
Due to me being cheap, I did not buy new fancy toys to do it...
I did a variation of this cloth pin, I had a little metal clip that I used to hold the connector and by some kind of magic, the weight balanced the connector straight... Not sure why this anti-Murphy event happened to be but I'll take it. Soldered pin 1 using that clip then removed it.It holds the wires in alignment with the header. You might also consider using a hot-air gun and spring clip to strip the wires evenly. Described in post #9 here:
http://www.electro-tech-online.com/threads/how-would-i-strip-ribbon-cable.147010/#post-1248668
I learned that I have a bad quality IPA soluble flux which would make a bee colony feel at home... I fluxed the pins and tried this method which ended up working fine but made a total mess because of the shameful abuse of flux... It was most probably the fasted thing I tried but, I was not good enough with it and ended up doing a lot of rework which led to losing time overall.If you use a good water soluble flux, you can float solder with a broad tip on your soldering Iron. You'll want a good soldering station, you can get a good thermostatically controlled one around $89 here in the U.S.
The principle is to float a bubble of solder from the tip to header pin in a straight line and the excess will stay on or near the tip of the Iron and only what you need is left behind.
Yeah... well... you won this round against fancy toys mcgyvr, I did bite the bullet and soldered that in 5 hours straight which is way less than I thought it might take... I only did the 12 pin though, still have to do the 6 pins and the modules...In the time spent on this post you would have hand soldered them all by now..
I need a back transplant now...