This board is for moving the backstop on our 1982 Challenge 37" hydraulic cutter. The backstop still moves forward and backward, but it's extremely slow moving forward. The schematic say the toasted resistor at bottom right is an 8KΩ. I'm assuming the other two are 1K. The length of all three is approximately 8.5mm.
QUESTIONS
1. Because of it's size, would that mean it is a 0.5W?
2. The Arc Suppressors are QUENCHARC 504M02QA47. Is there a way to test them with a basic multimeter?
3. I'm guessing the "black components" are capacitors. All I can read off them are "WEP", "170" and what looks like a "W" logo (Wiltronics?).
How can I determine what they are and test them to see if they are good?
Not that it helps any, but the other components I've been able to identify are:
RY4V-U 120V relay
Vishay VS-16RIA60 SCRs
The TRIAC is labeled "GE SC1600 8552"
Not shown but connected to the board:
OHMITE 2Ω 55W F503 8631
DALE .5Ω 55W HL-55-09Z Y8513
Needless to say, this board is no longer available (EOL was 2005) and I've only found one place that claims to repair such. They want $250 to "maybe fix it" and another $250 to simply replace everything. Before I go that route, I figured I could just replace the components that test bad, starting with the 8K resistor.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

QUESTIONS
1. Because of it's size, would that mean it is a 0.5W?
2. The Arc Suppressors are QUENCHARC 504M02QA47. Is there a way to test them with a basic multimeter?
3. I'm guessing the "black components" are capacitors. All I can read off them are "WEP", "170" and what looks like a "W" logo (Wiltronics?).
How can I determine what they are and test them to see if they are good?
Not that it helps any, but the other components I've been able to identify are:
RY4V-U 120V relay
Vishay VS-16RIA60 SCRs
The TRIAC is labeled "GE SC1600 8552"
Not shown but connected to the board:
OHMITE 2Ω 55W F503 8631
DALE .5Ω 55W HL-55-09Z Y8513
Needless to say, this board is no longer available (EOL was 2005) and I've only found one place that claims to repair such. They want $250 to "maybe fix it" and another $250 to simply replace everything. Before I go that route, I figured I could just replace the components that test bad, starting with the 8K resistor.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
