Obviously the best answer is going to be to find a direct replacement.

 

It will work with 12v. Signal high on window.

I'm trying to be optimistic, but the fact is there is more to an ignition pickup than the trigger itself. You may get something to work, and you may not.

I don't have access at the moment, but I do remember some example circuits in the datasheet for the sensor you initially looked at. I believe the first one listed would give you what you want. I do however want to stress that it is only an assumption and no guarantee. I agree with lowqcab on not wanting to waste time and money, but I also believe in experimenting to find a solution.

 

"" Hi. I have a broken distributor. I opened it and find one sensor on ceramic PCB. With 3 wire.
The sensor is working at 12vcc. ""

What makes you think eveyone else is guessing? The problem is the distributor is physically broken as described in the first post. As to guessing at what may work I would say at this point it's an educated guess based on the information provided.

.
The Thread-Starter clearly states that he has a "broken-Distributor",
but does not state how he came to this conclusion,
then he goes on to state that the Sensor is working with 12vdc.

Maybe this is a language-translation-problem, I'm not sure,
and I don't think anyone else is sure about this either.

There is no explanation or discussion as to how this conclusion was made,
and no descriptive Engine-driveability-symptoms, or even if the Engine actually runs, or ran, at all,
it is therefore anyone's guess at this point, as to what the actual problem is.

We don't even know the manufacturer, or Model-Year, or any other information about the Car or Engine !!!!

One seemingly insignificant wiring mistake could smoke an Ignition-Module, or Engine-Computer,
adding even more confusion, and expense, and wasted time and Money.

Guessing is not doing anyone any favors.
.
.
.

 

@LowQCab My apologies. I guess I felt you were trying to make things more complicated than need be. If someone says they have a broken distributor my thought is they know they have a problem with the distributor and there is no need to ask a bunch of somewhat condescending questions.

I'll agree it would help immensely to have some information on what exact engine, car, boat, equipment, or whatever.

 

Here's a thought... a quick google search of the numbers on the pickup

https://www.ebay.com/itm/283506726567 if that doesn't work then we'll consider the question of the distributor solved and it's on to additional troubleshooting.

 

People come here seeking help that have experience levels from zero to designing complex-Chip-Layouts.

Most of the lesser experienced people have no idea of what, or how much, information is
required to even begin to formulate a question that can be understood by even seasoned veterans.

Everybody's got to start somewhere,
and if someone doesn't have enough experience to know what information needs to be provided
to formulate an understandable question, basic questions are in no way "condescending",
instead, asking these basic questions is the fastest and most comprehensive way to get them
the help that they are requesting.

I have found through repeated experience that people tend to automatically place blame
on the part of a device that they understand the least about.
This can create a "wild-goose-chase" of confusion that has nothing to do with
the "real" problem that they are trying to solve.
This exact scenario gets played-out at least twice a day in these Forums, sometimes more.
It's just plain-ole Human-Nature.
It requires lots of patience and perseverance, and a genuine desire to help.
.
.
.

 

Could my scheme work? If they are necessary, how do I calculate R1 and R2? What type of PNP can I use?

Ok, It works without any resistor. There's only one problem. I usually have one spark for each of the 4 windows. Sometimes, however, I have a constant spark. I mean it looks like a taser. That's not good. Is there a way to make the signal that It comes out of the transistor more stable? Maybe he need some zener or capacitor to fix the threshold. It will work better with an on/of sensor because the ss41f is linear output. If someone have some idea to improve this circuit is welcome.

 

After looking at your pictures, im guesing the ign module is a J121. This definitely uses a positive pulse. Its either driven directly with a reluctor type distributor. The vehicles here in Australia that use the Hall sensor in the dist feed the pulse from the Hall to an ECU which gives a Positive pulse to the J121 module & alters the timing. So i gues you will need to find the original type Hall sensor, or build a circuit that will give a positive pulse from a readily avalable Hall sensor.

 

problem solved. I add one resistor between emettitor and base and craisy spark gone. Now It work well. one spark for each variation of state. Thanks to all.