Hi. I have a broken distributor. I opened it and find one sensor on ceramic PCB. With 3 wire. The sensor is working at 12vcc. Hi produce one positive signal for ignition module than ignition module give current to the spark coil. Now, since I can't find the spare parts I'm looking for one sensor to put inside the distributor. In front of the sensor is one magnet then one disc is turning between sensor and the magnet. The disc have 4 "windows" when the window is passing in front of sensor allow the magnetic field to activate the sensor.
Then the sensor produce a positive signal.
Can you help me choose the right sensor for this job?

 

What is the distributor out of? Sounds a lot like a early fuel injection Chrysler type they started using around 86 or so.

 

The question is automotive electric because so many have problems with car distributor sensors.
Parts dealers that specialize in Chrysler rebuilding and racing will know which ones are good.
A reliable distributor is smooth but a sloppy distributor is hard to sense, other vibrations should be checked.
Check the front suspension also.

 

Sounds like a distributor that uses Hall sensors is what you have. This is obviously a 6 cylinder distributor. Quite a few vehicles used these hall sensors in the late 80s to around 2000.

 

Thanks everyone for your interest. I thought about this SS40A-F Honeywell.
It can work at 12vdc and has 20mA output. What do you think?

 

I thought about this SS40A-F Honeywell. It can work at 12vdc and has 20mA output. What do you think?

It's probably not going to work for you, but not knowing the circuit it's connected to that's a guess. This particular sensor works by "grounding" a signal instead of turning on and off power.

 

thank you @geekoftheweek. Yes my distributor need a positive signal. I have to send it back. Do you know some sensor like this but with positive signal?

Please someone can kindly find a sensor with positive output for me?

 

I am very sorry and ashamed to bother you but I really don't understand why it is so difficult to find a sensor with a positive output. So much so that I'm considering a Reed relay. Is there a way to convert the signal from negative to positive while preserving the duration of the original signal?

 

There's no need to feel sorry or ashamed,
You simply need to understand that the Engine was made with a particular Ignition-System-Design.

There is nothing "generic" or "universal" about your Ignition system.
There are hundreds of different Ignition-Pickup designs,
and none of them are compatible with each other.

If it is completely impossible to obtain exact-replacement-parts, it "may" be possible to
replace the original parts with some "other" types of parts that "may" also work.

Custom fabrication may be required.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following questions must be answered completely ..............

1)
While it's certainly possible that I missed certain important parts of this Thread,
I have not seen a full description of your Car,
or any pictures of the Ignition-parts that You "think" need to be replaced.
The problem may be somewhere else entirely, for all anyone knows.

2)
Did You physically break the Ignition-Pickup ?
There is a remote chance that it can be repaired with Epoxy-Glue, or by some other means.

3)
How do You know that the Ignition-Pickup is bad ?
Have You followed the manufacturer's instructions for testing the Ignition-System ?

4)
When working on older Cars,
there is always a chance that a seemingly "simple" repair
may eventually cost more than the entire Car is worth.

How valuable is your Car ?

5)
Are You working on a "Hobby-Project" Car ?, ( for entertainment ),
or are You desperate for simple transportation, ( I've been there ).
.
.
.

 

Thanks @LowQCab, you're right. I'll post some photos that might help you understand what I'm looking for. I need to replace the sensor that gives the signal to the ignition module. look at the yellow line that goes from the sensor (inside the circular piece) to the ignition module which is one with the ignition coil. The operation is as follows. When the rotary plate turns it passes in front of the sensor. when the opening in the rotary plate passes in front of the sensor it allows the magnetic flux to activate the sensor which sends a positive signal to the ignition module which is attached to the ignition coil. Today I received the Honeywell SS40A-F sensor but as already suggested it is not good because it has a negative output. I was wondering if you know of a sensor that emits a positive signal when hit by magnetic flux? I was wondering if there is a way to reverse the signal from negative to positive in real time. This afternoon I was thinking about an optocouple. what do you think?

 

Could my scheme work? If they are necessary, how do I calculate R1 and R2? What type of PNP can I use?

 

I think that You did not bother to answer the numbered questions that I presented.

If those questions are not answered in a complete manner,
then there is probably no one here that can help You.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following questions must be answered completely ..............

1)
While it's certainly possible that I missed certain important parts of this Thread,
I have not seen a full description of your Car,
or any pictures of the Ignition-parts that You "think" need to be replaced.
The problem may be somewhere else entirely, for all anyone knows.

2)
Did You physically break the Ignition-Pickup ?
There is a remote chance that it can be repaired with Epoxy-Glue, or by some other means.

3)
How do You know that the Ignition-Pickup is bad ?
Have You followed the manufacturer's instructions for testing the Ignition-System ?

4)
When working on older Cars,
there is always a chance that a seemingly "simple" repair
may eventually cost more than the entire Car is worth.

How valuable is your Car ?

5)
Are You working on a "Hobby-Project" Car ?, ( for entertainment ),
or are You desperate for simple transportation, ( I've been there ).
.
.
.

 

I think that You did not bother to answer the numbered questions that I presented.

If those questions are not answered in a complete manner,
then there is probably no one here that can help You.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following questions must be answered completely ..............

1)
While it's certainly possible that I missed certain important parts of this Thread,
I have not seen a full description of your Car,
or any pictures of the Ignition-parts that You "think" need to be replaced.
The problem may be somewhere else entirely, for all anyone knows.

no the problem is the distributor.

2)
Did You physically break the Ignition-Pickup ?
There is a remote chance that it can be repaired with Epoxy-Glue, or by some other means.

It doesn't work (electrically). It's not broken, I mean you can't use glue to fix it.

3)
How do You know that the Ignition-Pickup is bad ?
Have You followed the manufacturer's instructions for testing the Ignition-System ?

I tested ignition module and spark coil and they are working fine.

4)
When working on older Cars,
there is always a chance that a seemingly "simple" repair
may eventually cost more than the entire Car is worth.

How valuable is your Car ?

The car itself is not costing to much but I want to fix this problem. in the future I can fix the same problem on other car. the spare parts it's not available at the moment. Lower price 50€ on aliexpress.


5)
Are You working on a "Hobby-Project" Car ?, ( for entertainment ),
or are You desperate for simple transportation, ( I've been there ).

I am professional mechanic


.
.
.

I hope it's enough

 

Could my scheme work? If they are necessary, how do I calculate R1 and R2? What type of PNP can I use?

It is entirely possible the circuit will work. One of the problems with ignition systems is you need a little background information. Many modern ECUs use 5 volts for sensor inputs. Do you need 5 or 12 volts? Does the signal need to be high or low in the "window"? There is the possibility of false triggers on both the leading and trailing ends of the window many pickups are designed to filter.

 

I think that You did not bother to answer the numbered questions that I presented.

If those questions are not answered in a complete manner,
then there is probably no one here that can help You.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following questions must be answered completely ..............

1)
While it's certainly possible that I missed certain important parts of this Thread,
I have not seen a full description of your Car,
or any pictures of the Ignition-parts that You "think" need to be replaced.
The problem may be somewhere else entirely, for all anyone knows.

2)
Did You physically break the Ignition-Pickup ?
There is a remote chance that it can be repaired with Epoxy-Glue, or by some other means.

3)
How do You know that the Ignition-Pickup is bad ?
Have You followed the manufacturer's instructions for testing the Ignition-System ?

4)
When working on older Cars,
there is always a chance that a seemingly "simple" repair
may eventually cost more than the entire Car is worth.

How valuable is your Car ?

5)
Are You working on a "Hobby-Project" Car ?, ( for entertainment ),
or are You desperate for simple transportation, ( I've been there ).
.
.
.

The first three were basically answered minus the description of the car and pictutes by a simple description of the insides of the broken pickup.

The last two are irrelevant. The op just wants to try to fix a distributor

 

The first three were basically answered minus the description of the car and pictutes by a simple description of the insides of the broken pickup.

The last two are irrelevant. The op just wants to try to fix a distributor

.
Nothing more needs to be said.
.
.
.

 

It is entirely possible the circuit will work. One of the problems with ignition systems is you need a little background information. Many modern ECUs use 5 volts for sensor inputs. Do you need 5 or 12 volts? Does the signal need to be high or low in the "window"? There is the possibility of false triggers on both the leading and trailing ends of the window many pickups are designed to filter.

It will work with 12v. Signal high on window.

 

.
Nothing more needs to be said.
.
.
.

Interaction on the forum is voluntary so no one can ask anyone to respond. However, I have answered all your questions. Please if you can, help me and the people Who may have the same problem in the future.

 

I have extensive experience in automotive electrical systems,
everyone here is merely guessing at what may be the problem and what may work as a solution,
I try to avoid guessing as much as possible.

It is irresponsible to "guess" with someone else's time and Money.

I wish You success with your project.
.
.
.

 

everyone here is merely guessing at what may be the problem and what may work as a solution,

What makes you think eveyone else is guessing? The problem is the distributor is physically broken as described in the first post. As to guessing at what may work I would say at this point it's an educated guess based on the information provided.