Is it a 4 stroke motorcycle engine with oil in the crankcase?
Is it a high quality oil?
If so, then the oil should be okay.

I have a Yamaha, I'm told only use Yamaha brand because it has a wet clutch and you may damage it.

kv

Edit: Someone may have already stated this, I just didn't want to read the whole thing.

 

Most "unit engine" bike(engine and trans in same case ) are wet clutches. But the newer Harley's (non unit) have gone to to a wet clutch too. The only oil I'm aware of to avoid was/is Pennzoil. Yamaha or any bike maker buys their oil from some one else, no matter what name is on the bottle.

 

The clutch wasn't slipping and the problem only came after changing to that brand of oil, and setting over the winter with the new oil in it. When trying to ride in the spring time, the clutch wouldn't release. Breaking the engine cases down and cleaning the friction discs in solvent and reassembling, and changing back to Castrol(my preferred oil) with the same discs and the problem was gone.

Well that explains it - a well worn motorcycle had been running fine on Halfords cheap own brand. The sales droid mentioned they had Castrol on special offer even cheaper - the main bearings failed somewhere around 600 miles later.

Castrol works fine on new engines - but there's *NOTHING* in reserve.

 

Most "unit engine" bike(engine and trans in same case ) are wet clutches. But the newer Harley's (non unit) have gone to to a wet clutch too. The only oil I'm aware of to avoid was/is Pennzoil. Yamaha or any bike maker buys their oil from some one else, no matter what name is on the bottle.

I had good results with Penzoil (in Australia), actually used to buy it in 20L drums. TBH as it was over 20 years ago I can't recall the actual formula.

Oil is a funny thing, some will recommend a "high quality oil" others will recommend a lower quality oil with lower amount of kays or miles between changes.

 

Hi, Mistakenly I bought an engine oil 1 liter bottle for a 110cc Yamaha motorcycle. But the oil case has such label: . Ops!
Is that a huge mistake?

Just thought I'd mention - the oil for modern diesel cars is fairly close to the viscosity range for most motorcycles.

Compression ignition engines knock by design - the oil for diesel engines is probably formulated for higher film strength.

 

Compression ignition engines knock by design - the oil for diesel engines is probably formulated for higher film strength

Don't know where your from, but here in the States it's the one oil that is still allowed to have some zinc(ZDDP) in it, that is what helps with high pressures. The removal of zinc is the big reason car engines switched to roller lifters on the cam shaft. The old flat tappets wore the lobe right off of the cam shaft.

 

Don't know where your from, but here in the States it's the one oil that is still allowed to have some zinc(ZDDP) in it, that is what helps with high pressures. The removal of zinc is the big reason car engines switched to roller lifters on the cam shaft. The old flat tappets wore the lobe right off of the cam shaft.

Plain alloy camshaft bearings became commonplace on Jap motorcycles - by the smell of 1 or 2 conked out cars, I assumed modern cars were the same.

What's the oil change interval on current cars? - last motorcycle I had it was only 5000 miles.

 

Plain alloy camshaft bearings became commonplace on Jap motorcycles - by the smell of 1 or 2 conked out cars, I assumed modern cars were the same.

What's the oil change interval on current cars? - last motorcycle I had it was only 5000 miles.

It isn't bearing wear but the lobes them selves. Don't know when they changed but even my old Harley's have needle bearings on the cams.

Just got a 2018 Chevy Equinox and oil change is 10K miles