Breadboarding technique and fast op amp integrator

Thread Starter

Zeeus

Joined Apr 17, 2019
598
Please how TS can breadboard efficiently/quicker?

Copper clad suggestions please (love it and have a bunch)

Please, what is making that integrator fast?

Thanks thanks

TO be clearer, will be trying to do a circuit with 4 op amps and some transistors.
How can he do it efficiently to be able to make changes without much stress. (use one DIP IC? how to get the space around the pins?)
 

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crutschow

Joined Mar 14, 2008
25,255
How "fast" do you need?
That will tell us how critical the layout is.
The LM101 is an ancient op amp. Suggest you use a newer device.
 

jpanhalt

Joined Jan 18, 2008
10,079
On occasion, I use copper double-sided perf board like you have. There are various ways to remove the copper so you have pads and strips. One way is by grinding a #11 X-Acto knife to a hooked awl and scrape it. I have a miniature bench saw with a narrow kerf carbide blade. That works great. I set it slightly above table level and pass the board over it. It removes a nice narrow strip of copper. Somewhere, I have a picture but couldn't find it.

One tidbit about 0.1 spacing. That is perfect for 1206 SMD devices.
 

Thread Starter

Zeeus

Joined Apr 17, 2019
598
On occasion, I use copper double-sided perf board like you have. There are various ways to remove the copper so you have pads and strips. One way is by grinding a #11 X-Acto knife to a hooked awl and scrape it. I have a miniature bench saw with a narrow kerf carbide blade. That works great. I set it slightly above table level and pass the board over it. It removes a nice narrow strip of copper. Somewhere, I have a picture but couldn't find it.

One tidbit about 0.1 spacing. That is perfect for 1206 SMD devices.
Thanks
You think TS should make the boards like pcb?
Draw the traces, chemical. Will there be much chance for improvement on the circuits?
 

jpanhalt

Joined Jan 18, 2008
10,079
No. In fact, having all the holes may make a mess of anything you try to etch. When I do those boards, I use the "Manhattan" or dead bug technique. Everything is connected in various sized squares that are made with my saw. I made a passive filter a few years ago. If I can find it, I will post pictures as an edit here.

EDIT: Here you go. Top and bottom views.

1594774064881.png

I forgot to mention that if I want to clear around a hold, like in this case, I just use a drill bit (about #30). Typical American drills are 118° included angle. "Aircraft" (sheet metal) drills are 135°. They work a little better and don't go so deeply into the pcb. That's what I use. Either or anything in between will work.
 
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