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Hope this is the correct area, if not Point me in the right direction.
Caveats: 1. I’m an old (76 base 10), Mech Engine, 38yrs practical, now impractical (I don’t get paid but I spend)
Problem: I have a battle wagon electric bike mfg in appx 2017 or 2018. Name- RadWagon, 48vdc battery spec
->I tried to put an after market battery on this big power eating big and it would work for a few seconds. Battery + was isolated from home battery but not the - (negative).
->My son (an embedded software engineer who worked on battery control systems for two vehicles currently on the road! Does he call his dad and help him out ? Anyone? Anybody? Bueller? NO!, the rest later) says that battery that came with the bike might have some simple way of identifying itself to the controller. There is a mystery voltage in the key off position that is half of the full up voltage. Batt spec = 48vdc, measured aft chrg 54.7vdc, “key off” voltage is 1/2 of measured “key on” voltage, in this case, 27.3vdc. While measuring in DC mode the voltage varies in a regular rate. When I switch to a sinusoidal measurement it showed 0 ( zero, zip, nada). My replacement battery measures just 0 or 54.? (Forgot last digit).
->In my quest to make the “THING” work I would let the HOME battery run low and then pull in the FOREIGN battery.
It worked once at the end of the season about 5 years ago. I kept the batteries in doors and charged once or twice a year and they always came to a full charge.
-> In order to predict charge condition I bought some cheap volt meters for each battery and would watch voltage drop as time progressed. I said I was a mechanical engineer, I gotta feel it, I noticed when the batts started to hit the steep part of the decline I could feel the losses and thought I would see it on the volt meter. Never got it to work that well, then a 5 year hiatus to get one knee replaced. It took 4 attempts at 5 hospitals, in 2 states and two infections that wont leave for the rest of my days. I digress.
-> in the process of trying to restore my Rad-a-sorus-wagonus operating syst something went snap, and a spark of white light similar to an electrical arc, and some charring on my fingers and some partially consumed connectors.
1. After test 1, low amp fuse in home batt blown, replace, some burned connection at my spices from original “tap in”.
I’ve soldered a lot since I was 12, I meter check all splices.
2. Symptoms: A. When I hook the fully charged home battery after replacing fuse and repairing as many splices as possible I
got nothing, zero response. No voltage across battery terminals while key was in the ON position, or any position. Could
not get batt voltage until batt was disconnected from circuit. What’s up with that?
3.Reference Data: Don’t know if this is of any importance but the “up stream” resistance of the system (controller, display,
switches,etc) is about 27 meg ohms. Seems awfully high to be causing what appeared to be shorting when hooked up.
4. Notes:
*Condition may have changed due to my two short arc welding demonstrations. The batteries never blew fuses. The blown fuse was from a by gone day, in a place far, far away.
* The after market battery has no “mystery voltage” and after several ways to hook up, including hard wire into bike harness, still no nothin.
5. If my controller can be replaced with aftermarket stuff I’d appreciate recommendations. Include something that has a display and access to a spread sheet of controllable operating parameters.
Thanks for your help.
Caveats: 1. I’m an old (76 base 10), Mech Engine, 38yrs practical, now impractical (I don’t get paid but I spend)
Problem: I have a battle wagon electric bike mfg in appx 2017 or 2018. Name- RadWagon, 48vdc battery spec
->I tried to put an after market battery on this big power eating big and it would work for a few seconds. Battery + was isolated from home battery but not the - (negative).
->My son (an embedded software engineer who worked on battery control systems for two vehicles currently on the road! Does he call his dad and help him out ? Anyone? Anybody? Bueller? NO!, the rest later) says that battery that came with the bike might have some simple way of identifying itself to the controller. There is a mystery voltage in the key off position that is half of the full up voltage. Batt spec = 48vdc, measured aft chrg 54.7vdc, “key off” voltage is 1/2 of measured “key on” voltage, in this case, 27.3vdc. While measuring in DC mode the voltage varies in a regular rate. When I switch to a sinusoidal measurement it showed 0 ( zero, zip, nada). My replacement battery measures just 0 or 54.? (Forgot last digit).
->In my quest to make the “THING” work I would let the HOME battery run low and then pull in the FOREIGN battery.
It worked once at the end of the season about 5 years ago. I kept the batteries in doors and charged once or twice a year and they always came to a full charge.
-> In order to predict charge condition I bought some cheap volt meters for each battery and would watch voltage drop as time progressed. I said I was a mechanical engineer, I gotta feel it, I noticed when the batts started to hit the steep part of the decline I could feel the losses and thought I would see it on the volt meter. Never got it to work that well, then a 5 year hiatus to get one knee replaced. It took 4 attempts at 5 hospitals, in 2 states and two infections that wont leave for the rest of my days. I digress.
-> in the process of trying to restore my Rad-a-sorus-wagonus operating syst something went snap, and a spark of white light similar to an electrical arc, and some charring on my fingers and some partially consumed connectors.
1. After test 1, low amp fuse in home batt blown, replace, some burned connection at my spices from original “tap in”.
I’ve soldered a lot since I was 12, I meter check all splices.
2. Symptoms: A. When I hook the fully charged home battery after replacing fuse and repairing as many splices as possible I
got nothing, zero response. No voltage across battery terminals while key was in the ON position, or any position. Could
not get batt voltage until batt was disconnected from circuit. What’s up with that?
3.Reference Data: Don’t know if this is of any importance but the “up stream” resistance of the system (controller, display,
switches,etc) is about 27 meg ohms. Seems awfully high to be causing what appeared to be shorting when hooked up.
4. Notes:
*Condition may have changed due to my two short arc welding demonstrations. The batteries never blew fuses. The blown fuse was from a by gone day, in a place far, far away.
* The after market battery has no “mystery voltage” and after several ways to hook up, including hard wire into bike harness, still no nothin.
5. If my controller can be replaced with aftermarket stuff I’d appreciate recommendations. Include something that has a display and access to a spread sheet of controllable operating parameters.
Thanks for your help.
