Help! How to attach ic555 chip to perfboard and make connections

I am working on a 555 timer and have it all worked out and working on a breadboard. But I am having trouble figuring out how to make the same connections on a perf board. I am using an 8 pin socket. I am not sure how to make the connections/solder the small pins to the rest of the circuit.

Any help?

Thanks.

The wire is small, yes? Partly wrap it around the pins. If your perf board has solder pads use them to lay the wires on, or put the wires next to the pins.

use jumper wires where necessary to connect the IC pins to the rest of the circuit. Sometimes when doing point to point soldering, using the leads of passive components, (i.e. Resistor leads) to make connections to the rest of the circuit.

I am using 22 gauge solid wire. I have two different boards to work with, this is an example of the one I have at the moment:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103799

I am not sure whether to put the pins thru the board or flatten them on the copper layout?

Will my 40/60 solder conduct? If so how careful do I have to be to keep all 8 pins seperate?

ongreystreet said:

I am using 22 gauge solid wire. I have two different boards to work with, this is an example of the one I have at the moment:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103799

I am not sure whether to put the pins thru the board or flatten them on the copper layout?

Click to expand...

Usually, you insert DIP (dual inline pin) ICs or sockets from the top side of the board (that does not have the copper traces; the bottom side)

Will my 40/60 solder conduct?

Click to expand...

Yes.

If so how careful do I have to be to keep all 8 pins seperate?

Click to expand...

Very careful.
If you accidentally short two pins together and leave them that way when you apply power, you will get results anywhere from just plain "it doesn't work" to the magic smoke being released from the 555 timer.

Solder the socket to the board with the 555 removed from the socket. Saves finding the part being stuck in the socket.

Do yourself a favor, and buy smaller gauge wire, preferably solid, not stranded. Somthing like 26 gauge would be good.

Bill_Marsden said:

Do yourself a favor, and buy smaller gauge wire, preferably solid, not stranded. Somthing like 26 gauge would be good.

Click to expand...

For my "mashup" circuits, I like to use solid 30ga teflon insulated. No need to worry about insulation melt back near the connections. I strip off about an inch or two, solder one end, check distance to other termination, cut through insulation with stripper and slide down to the first connection. I still have the wire attached to the spool at this time. The now exposed length of wire gets close soldered to the next tie point and if not going any further, is cut with an exacto knife. If it is continuing on, the process is repeated.

I do a lot of my prototyping and one-off boards on perf-boards with solder pads and 30 gauge wire.

Look for "wire-wrap" wire like this: http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDrillDownView?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&freeText=wire%20wrap&search_type=jamecoall

Or this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062642

And a stripper that can reliably strip 30 AWG wire: http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=127871

I also find a small hemostat really necessary when soldering these small wires: http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDrillDownView?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&freeText=hemostat&search_type=jamecoall

Another trick I use for layout is to use ExpressPCB (free) to do the schematic, then do the perf-board in their PCB program. They're linked, so you can verify the wiring between the schematic and the board. Many of their components are not on 0.1"x0.1" foot prints, but it's very easy to create new ones that are. If I decide to make more, I just have ExpressPCB make do the boards.

Ken

Here is a technique I use to good advantage.

I draw the wires first, showing how I lay the leads from the parts like resistors and capacitors. You don't need every wire insulated. I finish it off using the insulated wires last. Cuts down on wiring errors, among other things.



This from this thread...

http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=10339

Many cases I touch the lead to the pad. If the solder is not cold (and I inspect using magnification) and flows between the two contacts that works well enough.