![]() |
|
|||||||
| The Projects Forum Working on an electronics project and would like some suggestions, help or critiques? If you would like to comment or assist others with their projects, this is the place to do it. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#31
|
||||
|
||||
|
Guys, guys...
Come on now... I'm super busy right now (moving to a new house) No time to provide useful input, but later on this evening I'll sit down and go over post #24 and get back to you. |
|
#32
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
|
#33
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
I haven't got the time or patience to be inventing my own tank ph and amonia monitor - I'll leave that up to them! But you are right, with more time - it would be nicer to have it all coming from one handy USB device. ![]() @strantor: Sorry - some things just spiral... it's over now! Anyway - I've attached the latest version of this project. I've added a bunch of indicators which will display what's going on... don't worry too much about them! I have also added 2 more switches - one is to start a cycle manually without needing the PC (SW4) and the other is to manually override the lights or auxilary device (SW5). Hope it all makes sense
|
|
#34
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
No reason you couldn't adjust chemicals in the conditioning tank, other than overdose. My twenty some odd tanks are stacked in one corner of the basement and the wife is pressuring me to start getting rid of them, but I'm thinking a couple more brood of angels would be exciting.
__________________
I get all the news I need on the weather report |
|
#35
|
||||
|
||||
|
@blindtrevor - you really can't put things in series man, especially lamps. Lamps are high value current limiting resistors. Your motors are probably supposed to be drawing several amps; you put a lamp in series with it, and now it's only going to get a few milliamps. Putting a lamp in series with a relay coil is going to cause the coils strength to be weak, which is going to cause your contacts to flop around all over, arcing, & burning of the contacts. Other than that, it looks like it should work.
P.S. I highly recommend you familiarize yourself with relay ladder logic diagrams. They really are the simplest, most intuitive way to draw a relay circuit. Your first drawing took me probably 10 minutes to examine; this latest one took only 5 because I was already familiar with most of it. If it had been in ladder form, I could have cut the time down to a few seconds. Actually, this thread is one of 3 in recent memory that has prompted me to make a little "Relay Ladder Logic Diagrams for Dummies" thread. But you can check out AAC's e-book on it for now: http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_4/chpt_6/1.html |
|
#36
|
|||
|
|||
|
Yeh - I know... sorry, I should have been clearer
![]() When I said, don't worry about the lamps, I meant because I had thrown them in roughly where they needed to go - they haven't been connected properly yet - I had only just started adding them in ![]() I got into a conversation with someone last night who seems to think the relay won't latch because of the voltage drop across the relay while the motor and solenoid are on... I think he's wrong - he's gone away to redesign the circuit! I'm interested to hear your and other peoples views on that? |
|
#37
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#38
|
||||
|
||||
|
I'll beat this dead horse 1 more time...
I hope you don't mind, but I've taken the liberty of converting your schematic to Ladder form. In doing so, I uncovered 2 departures from convention & one more redundant relay. I did not catch these errors in your schematic because the format is not conducive to my understanding. You'll see I've circled SW1 & SW2 - these 2 float switches are positioned between the relay coil and neutral. This is bad form. The convention is to always have one side of the relay coil connected to neutral. This is especially important in DC circuits, as the collapsing field of the relay coil will arc across upstream contacts and burn them out prematurely. I've drawn a line between RL2 coil and RL2 N.O. contact; as you can see, RL2 is not needed. You could simply go through RL1 N.C. contact, through SW3, and then to RL3 coil. BTW, Do you mind if I use this thread as part of my tutorial? |
|
#39
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
|
|
#40
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
I've had some stuff happen that's taken my mind away from this project for a short while... but I'll be back on it soon enough! |
|
| Tags |
| aquarium, change, project, relay or switch, water |
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| LED colour change when temperature rise/fall | blackstallion | The Projects Forum | 4 | 02-22-2012 04:24 AM |
| resistance of water (measuring IR in water) | strantor | Physics | 15 | 12-24-2010 11:34 AM |
| magnetic induction, electrolysis of water, and buoyancy problem | mcgregor94086 | Physics | 15 | 06-19-2010 03:07 AM |
| water level sensor using capacitors | wheetnee | The Projects Forum | 2 | 01-24-2010 07:03 AM |
| What is a Project? | jpanhalt | Feedback and Suggestions | 8 | 02-09-2009 02:17 PM |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|