But who wouldn't want to flush their toilet via their laptop!?I don't think I'll ever understand the obsession of people to power stuff off their USB port.
There's an app for cr.... well never mind.
But who wouldn't want to flush their toilet via their laptop!?I don't think I'll ever understand the obsession of people to power stuff off their USB port.
There is no obsession! Sometimes you want to control something via a computer and USB is a handy way of doing it?! I eventually want this to be unattended, so I will write an application that sets it off on an event timer.I don't think I'll ever understand the obsession of people to power stuff off their USB port. It has to be the worst idea to ever come down the pike, especially with reactive loads like a relay coil.
BTW, when you get this all working I think it would behoove you to have a failsafe backup to shut the fill pump off in case of float switch failure.
Hi,Could you provide a text explanation for that circuit?
because, As I see it...
1. I don't know how long your pulse is, but if you're expecting RL1 to latch, there's no provision for that.
2. during the brief time of the pulse, your pump & solenoid will be active, but they are in series which will give unpredictable results at best.
3. RL2 will latch, & keep your pump running (maybe) if the level is high (good there), but why not send the pulse straight to RL2? RL1 is pointless.
4. The low level switch will keep an open circuit for RL3 coil if the level is high, but if the level is low, it will connect both sides of RL3 together (electrically common) and RL3 will never switch.
5. Since RL3 never switches, RL4 never latches, and your tank never fills.
6. If RL3 were to switch, I think the rest of the circuit would work.
No need to get yourself all out of joint over of my statements. I'm not questioning the wisdom of controlling hardware from your PC, that's a typical application of a PC. I've re-read this entire thread, to make sure I didn't miss it and I found no details regarding the box on your schematic marked PPUSB-RLY02, which I assumed are merely relays. If they are then that's where my issue is.There is no obsession! Sometimes you want to control something via a computer and USB is a handy way of doing it?! I'm not an idiot!
Complained about it? Not really. Questioning something vs complaining about it are hardly equivalent. This is the first time you've provided any information regarding that interface, which appears more than adequate for your application.I know that's where your problem lies - but you offered no alternative... you just complained about it - that's where my problem lies.
I'm not interested in getting into a lengthy debate about it though - if you want more information on that little device, it's available here: http://bit.ly/HPXaqh
You should have mentioned that from the start. Using something like a LabJack or a DATAQ, you could collect all your data inputs and control a range of outputs all with one USB-connected device and your PC. Soooo much easier.I also monitor the temperature, amount of free ammonia and PH levels in my tank using the PC...
You're probably right... I probably have a short fuse! (If only you knew me, you'd see how far wrong you are!). Please don't bother replying - it will only serve to prove that you are petty minded and desperate to have the last word.BTW, considering your extremely short fuse I'm looking forward to your first exchange with our senior member AudioGuru.
Someone please PM me when that happens. I really don't want to miss it.
I'm using a Seneye. I've been talking to the dev's and they're hoping to make some sort of API so I can tap into the raw data from it... but it means I don't have to build my own circuit for it - why bother when someone's done the leg work already!You should have mentioned that from the start. Using something like a LabJack or a DATAQ, you could collect all your data inputs and control a range of outputs all with one USB-connected device and your PC. Soooo much easier.
Hmmm, that device appears to only monitor (input) a few parameters and has no outputs that you could use to control relays and such. I thought maybe you were using something more versatile, like the other devices I noted. The Seneye probably wouldn't help much with your flushing project. Those other devices can control all sorts of outputs from your computer, programmed as you like.I'm using a Seneye. I've been talking to the dev's and they're hoping to make some sort of API so I can tap into the raw data from it... but it means I don't have to build my own circuit for it - why bother when someone's done the leg work already!
http://www.seneye.com/
Yeh - it basically monitors my tank for me... and if there are problems it emails and sends me a text... What I was discussing with the developers was for them to ALSO send some sort of API command that I can use to fire off a water change.Hmmm, that device appears to only monitor (input) a few parameters and has no outputs that you could use to control relays and such. I thought maybe you were using something more versatile, like the other devices I noted. The Seneye probably wouldn't help much with your flushing project. Those other devices can control all sorts of outputs from your computer, programmed as you like.
after years of splashing around in aquaria, I settled on siphon draw filtration. I bore a port into the side of the filter canisters to allow high flow to run off to drain (sourced from below filter media to prevent fry going down and rising media that could obstruct the port). My original conditioning tank was level and continously siphoned to main tank as fresh was added. I did not attempt to adjust chemicals, only to let it 'age'. A line from main filter returned some flow back to the conditioning tank. My last setup had the conditioning tank flowing into a live breader tank (guppies), then into the angel rearing tank. No pumps, no hassle, just a good air stone in the conditioning tank.Then it wouldn't be automatic. The end goal is to have the outlet going into a drain and the inlet coming from some sort of hidden sump that fills itself with water and aquasafe chemicals... but that's another part of this project!
Also - I didn't mention that there will be a solenoid valve on the outlet that will be connected to the same power source as the outlet pump. That way, once the outlet pump turns on - the valve will open, when power is removed - the valve will shut preventing accidental syphoning.
@strantor - I'm not 100% sure on the ladder logic! (at least I'm honest!)
Can you draw it in a standard schematic circuit diagram at all? Many thanks everyone
It will latch. These holding circuits have been used in conjunction with motors since relays & motors existed. If your relay coil was in series with the motor, then you would have a problem, but it's not. How does he propose to redesign the circuit in such a way that the "theoretical" dropping out of the relay will not happen? Any way he does it will require a relay to latch at the same time the motor is running.I got into a conversation with someone last night who seems to think the relay won't latch because of the voltage drop across the relay while the motor and solenoid are on... I think he's wrong - he's gone away to redesign the circuit!
I'm interested to hear your and other peoples views on that?
Oh yeah because everyone understands relay/ladder logic diagrams..
Well they should; it's about the most elementary way to draw it short of filling up a page full of relay symbols and playing connect the dots.
@strantor - I'm not 100% sure on the ladder logic! (at least I'm honest!)
Can you draw it in a standard schematic circuit diagram at all? Many thanks everyone
The comment by wayneh not withstanding, (it's true) I find this funny! It certainly gets your ladder vs conventional schematic point across vividly.
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=69884I'll beat this dead horse 1 more time...
... Do you mind if I use this thread as part of my tutorial?
Oh - sorry... feel free!!