TMASCO,

Communication has never been one of my strengths so misunderstanding is probably a guilt best shared.

You have stated quite well how it is that you believe that your objective would be/should be accomplished. It is, however, your ultimate objective that I am still not quite sure of...

Is it that you are attempting to regulate water temperature once the tap has been openend? (If so, doesn't your water heater have a variable temperature adjustment? Just set it to 130 degrees and forget it?)

If you could just state the objsective...

My Goal
Flow sensor (located on hot water heater out pipe) to trip relay once it senses flow of water. The flow will be a result of a hot water tap being open.

Relay will start 10 sec count down,(reason for count down is if someone opens the faucet in the kitchen that was left on the hot side and is moved to the cold side) - once count down has elapsed current will will flow from relay to aquastat - If aquastat is closed (becase loop temp has fallen below 130 deg) power will be sent onto pump which will start (if aquastat is open current will not flow any futher) - pump is used to move water quickly to open faucet- (I am aware of the 10 sec delay) - pump will continue to run even if call for hot water has stopped (pump flow will keep the sensor open) - Once loop temp reaches 130 deg aquastat will break the current flow to the pump - pump stops - flow over sensor stops therefore causing the flow sensor and relay to reset - system waits for next call for hot water at open tap at which time the process will start all over again

I want hot water faster or I want more hot water pressure at the tap... etc.

I want hot water faster to open tap (still aware of 10 sec delay). Preasure is not an issue it has already been taken care of. I should have never mentioned it

In an earlier post you wrote...

Result = when water moves through the flow sensor - FS 5 will close and make contact with FS 4 therefore FS 5 will send current into RLY 5 (**What does FS 4 and RLY 6 do because 110 passes through FS 5 with FS 4 acting as a neutral “A.C. White wire”**) It looks like the box between FS 4 and RLY 7 is supposed to have a fuse therefore I would assume FS 4 is + A.C. Black power.

"Initiation" voltage (RLY pin 5 to RLY pin 6) is provided internally from the Timing Relay. (it may or may not be the same as line voltage (110V A.C.)) By routing through FS pin 4 and FS pin 5 you connect RLY pin 5 to RLY pin 6 intiating timer sequence, neither FS pin 4 nor FS pin 5 is routed to Line (110V A.C.) or Neutral.

I took the liberty of translating your last attachment to a ladder diagram format. (see attached)

I will review attachment to see if I understand it.

I beleive it would function as described except for one thing... there was no connection from Line to TR pin 1. (I made the connection in the ladder diagram) TR pin 1 feeds voltage to TR pin 3 once timing sequence is complete and the normally open contact closes. Without that connection AQ would never have any voltage to run the pump.

As shown, the pump will only run when FS senses there is flow 'and' AQ senses that water temperatur is below 130 degrees.

Yes

Hope this helps.

wiliamj

I have made comments above for the issues addressed.

Thanks again!

 

williamj - I have tried to lay the wiring diagram out (on top of the water flow diagram) as I think you have indicate. Please take a look and tell me what you think. Hopefully it's not too confusing!

 

TMASCO,

By jove I think you've GOT IT!

If your components aren't already in place I do whole heartedly recommend a simple test board. Simple switche can be use to simulate the normally open contact actions of the flow sensor and the Aquastat. A test board lets you find the problem areas before things "can't" be changed. In the long run it saves time and the pulling out of the hair when difficulties occur.

I'm a firm believer in "Murphy's Law", 'If something can go wrong, sooner or later it will!' When you actually do wire your project, do it as neatly as possible and label your wires. So when something actually does go wrong with it, it will be much easier finding and repairing the problem.

Best of Luck and let me know how it all works out,

williamj

 

TMASCO,

By jove I think you've GOT IT!

If your components aren't already in place I do whole heartedly recommend a simple test board. Simple switche can be use to simulate the normally open contact actions of the flow sensor and the Aquastat. A test board lets you find the problem areas before things "can't" be changed. In the long run it saves time and the pulling out of the hair when difficulties occur.

I'm a firm believer in "Murphy's Law", 'If something can go wrong, sooner or later it will!' When you actually do wire your project, do it as neatly as possible and label your wires. So when something actually does go wrong with it, it will be much easier finding and repairing the problem.

Best of Luck and let me know how it all works out,

williamj

I was thinking of putting together a model to test things out.

Don't worry about neatness, I am known to be extremely anele in what ever I do. I am not sure if that is good or bad!


Once the system is complete I will post a picture and you can be the judge about my neatness. People have told me not to go into business for myself. They tell me I won't make a dime in profit!


I can't thank you enough for the help and patience in working with me!


WOW - I hate to see this thread end it was a great learning experience!

 

TMASCO,

If you're as smart as I think you are the "learning" never stops. It just keeps on keeping on.

Just because we have, what I believe to be a working citcuit, doesn't mean we have the "optimum" circuit. I see two coils that are continuously consuming electricity. Not a whole lot of electricity granted, but can things be switched around some how to make it a little more efficient? That's for you to explore and play around with. <grin>

enjoy,

willimj