My switch is a 25A 250V Nikkai toggle switch. I think I'm good to go...
Took a few pictures of it because it's so pretty!
Took a few pictures of it because it's so pretty!
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I hope you don't mean to secure the ground leads together using a bolt tightened against a wooden base. It might just about be OK to pinch the connections between some nuts on the bolt, but it is not good to rely on the tension of a bolt in wood for an electrical connection.My project is in a wooden chasis, but I'll be using a bolt to connect up everything that needs ground via wires.
I shouldn't have said bolt, because I'm not actually using one. I'm using one of those Radio Shack solderable terminal strips and I soldered all of the connections together with a piece of 12 gauge wire.I hope you don't mean to secure the ground leads together using a bolt tightened against a wooden base. It might just about be OK to pinch the connections between some nuts on the bolt, but it is not good to rely on the tension of a bolt in wood for an electrical connection.
It would be better to use something intended for securing mains electrical connections, like a proper terminal block or junction box.
Does "12V" mean +/- 12V or +/-6V?Black to Black and Red to Red is correct.
There is no way to know for sure what the secondary voltage is. It will be 6V or 12V, center tapped, but an educated guess would say 12V since we are told it is a 240 Volt transformer and the highest output voltage would be listed and can still be achieved with either 240V or 120V configuration on the primary.
Danny
However, the diagram shows two 120v windings for the primary, so it's 120v/240v.New Surplus Chassis Mount Transformer Okura LP-427
6V-0-6V CT 1A
Input: 110/220VAC 60Hz
Outputs: 12VAC @ 1A (6V-0V-6V)
Beware....this will come back thousand fold.Thanks everyone - for telling me I'm forgiven.
For those new posters; be aware. Do something right and no one remembers. Do something wrong and no one forgets.
NO!So it's alright to use the fuses after the DPST switch? In that case, that simplifies things a lot. Well of course I can. I'm acting a fool right now, so excuse me.
I think I'd like to use two fuses, for some reason. I have a crapload of nice panel mount fuse holders, so I think I'll do two.
Thank you for clarifying the fuse value, because I really never knew how to do that correctly. I'll go with a 5A fuse on the power amp, and I guess 1A for the other transformer.
Thanks.
Okay then. But can I still use a DPST switch because I already have one and it cost me over $10?I agree.fuse should come first, even though they tend to go after something blows or is melted.
Well clearly you can: even if you only want the SPST function, no-one is forcing you to use both poles. It's quite common to switch both live and neutral though.Okay then. But can I still use a DPST switch because I already have one and it cost me over $10?
Oh sorry did you think I mean't TWO fuses. One on live and one on neutral?Well clearly you can: even if you only want the SPST function, no-one is forcing you to use both poles. It's quite common to switch both live and neutral though.
The real no-no is to put a fuse in the neutral, as that can easily leave the equipment "hot" in the case of a fault. So one fuse, in the live connection.
In that case, I'll go with one fuse one DPST. I calculated around 5A for the one transformer and 1A for the other, so I'll go for somewhere around a 6A slow blow.That Rod Elliot guy is a wizard in Aussieland. I don't know if they have different standards down under or what. You'd be best to check CSA/UL standards for North America.
The fuse is to prevent a disastrous fire. If the DPST switch comes first and it shorts you would have a lot of current (15A) flowing before the house circuit breaker trips.
Sure you can use the DPST switch but put the fuse on the LIVE side first. NEVER fuse the NEUTRAL side.
I would go with one fuse first at the LIVE line.
by Aaron Carman
by Jake Hertz
by Jake Hertz
by Jake Hertz