Wiring help needed

Thread Starter

Ian 1

Joined Oct 27, 2013
14
I just pulled this motor from my garage door opener, and would like to use it on a pottery table i have built. All i need is a single direction use, but just want to make sure i have it wired right, as I will be splicing straight to a wall plug. Any comments or help is appreciated. IMG_1398.jpg
 

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Thread Starter

Ian 1

Joined Oct 27, 2013
14
was having problems uploading photo. its 120v. are you able to see the picture of the motor now?
 
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MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,576
It would appear to be White (N) and Black (L1) are AC in and L1 would also supply either Red or Blu depending on direction required.
Max.
 

Thread Starter

Ian 1

Joined Oct 27, 2013
14
Is there any reason that the black (L1) is silver instead of copper? i connected the motor wires to a small battery. White to Negative, and the Black and Red to positive, but no actual movement from the shaft. So now about to connect white to white, black and red to black, and ground to ground on a wall plug.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,576
Is there any reason that the black (L1) is silver instead of copper? i connected the motor wires to a small battery. White to Negative, and the Black and Red to positive, but no actual movement from the shaft. So now about to connect white to white, black and red to black, and ground to ground on a wall plug.
Yes, you need 240vac.
By "silver instead of copper" are you talking about the conductor itself or the insulation colour?
If it the conductor colour, then ignore it and go by the insul. colour.
It sounds like you have the right terminations.
Max.
 

Electric Al

Joined Nov 6, 2013
55
was having problems uploading photo. its 120v. are you able to see the picture of the motor now?

Looking at the poor image of the wiring diagram , I would say the black of the 120 volt power goes to the blue and red on the motor , and the white (neutral) of the power goes to the white of the motor.

Just touch it on for a split second ,to test . OR .

You can ring out the motor with a multimeter.

BEST SOLUTION ... Call the manufacturer of the motor and get the spec sheet .

B T W , connecting to a battery does absolutely nothing . A battery is DC .
And also , a battery is not 120 volts !

Another Best Solution .... Take the motor to a motor shop , or to an electrician .

When you took it off the door opener , which wires were connected ?
 

Thread Starter

Ian 1

Joined Oct 27, 2013
14
So i connected the White from power to White on motor, Black from power to Black and Red wires on motor, Ground to Ground. Just trips breaker.

I disconnected the motor from the garage door opener in such haste, i forgot to take a picture of the connections. All wires had a connection, a couple going to a capacitor.

The battery i was using would at least cause the shaft to seize and prevent it from turning, and released when disconnected.

and when i mentioned silver instead of copper, i was talking about the conductor, not insulation.

Couldnt i also incorporate a bridge rectifier and convert it from ac to dc?
 
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Electric Al

Joined Nov 6, 2013
55
So i connected the White from power to White on motor, Black from power to Black and Red wires on motor, Ground to Ground. Just trips breaker.

I disconnected the motor from the garage door opener in such haste, i forgot to take a picture of the connections. All wires had a connection, a couple going to a capacitor.

The battery i was using would at least cause the shaft to seize and prevent it from turning, and released when disconnected.

and when i mentioned silver instead of copper, i was talking about the conductor, not insulation.



The capacitor is required to start the motor . Please take the motor to an electrician and don't forget the capacitor too .
 

Electric Al

Joined Nov 6, 2013
55
In further inspection of the motor tag plate , I see that that specific motor is for intermittent use.

1500 R P M .

I do not think it will suit to operate a pottery wheel . I M O .

The blue and red wire should maybe go to the cap.

I e mailed A O smith Co. The manufacturer . If they get back to me I will inform you !
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,576
I disconnected the motor from the garage door opener in such haste, i forgot to take a picture of the connections. All wires had a connection, a couple going to a capacitor.

The battery i was using would at least cause the shaft to seize and prevent it from turning, and released when disconnected.
As already stated, it won't run on DC, what you did was to make the stator an electro magnet, and the iron rotor aligned itself to the field, just like the iron keeper on a horseshoe magnet.
You definitely need the cap, if you left that on the door!
Max.
 

Thread Starter

Ian 1

Joined Oct 27, 2013
14
Yes, I kept the capacitor. I try and utilize as much as possible and recycle what I cant. I knew a DC motor would be easier to set all of this up with, but was hoping I could use what i had.

And all of this help is very appreciated. Thank you.
 

Electric Al

Joined Nov 6, 2013
55
This is the E Mail I received from the manufacturer . .>> ..

This motor was obsoleted many years ago, and the information was purged from the system. The opener may have a schematic diagram.
Dennis Bush
Regal Beloit America, Inc.
Tipp City, OH 45371
x6209

Sorry !
 

Thread Starter

Ian 1

Joined Oct 27, 2013
14
So I take it I might as well move on and just use the DC motor out of my treadmill? I was hoping I could have used a bridge rectifier, and possibly even the capacitor if i had to, but not if its going to be this much trouble.

Guess ill just put the motor back into the garage door opener. haha
 

Electric Al

Joined Nov 6, 2013
55
Where would you have used the bridge rectifier ?

I am getting totally confused !

I thought the motor was powered by 120 volts A C !

As far as I know , most overhead garage doors use A C motors !

Just an aside question , what is operating your garage door now ???
 

Thread Starter

Ian 1

Joined Oct 27, 2013
14
I had purchased a light/fan dimmer to use in between the power and the motor to control rotations.

That side just lifts up with ease, but i just have all of my bikes and what not on that side and drive out the other. There was a small crack in the piece of plastic that held the motor shaft up to the pulley shafts so it never lifted right. Its only a small piece that is probably cheap to replace but just never really used that door to begin with.
 

Electric Al

Joined Nov 6, 2013
55
I had purchased a light/fan dimmer to use in between the power and the motor to control rotations.

That side just lifts up with ease, but i just have all of my bikes and what not on that side and drive out the other. There was a small crack in the piece of plastic that held the motor shaft up to the pulley shafts so it never lifted right. Its only a small piece that is probably cheap to replace but just never really used that door to begin with.


Please call an electrician , before you hurt yourself ! :eek:
 
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