So what you're saying is I should do everything you said with regards to the single supply on the opamp, and at the output of my class AB transistor I should put a capacitor in series with the load (the speaker)? What about the transistors themselves heating up, should I put a capacitor at the output of the opamp as well to block the upper transistor from heating up too??

 

The output of the opamp is connected to the diodes (or the Vbe multiplier transistor)between the bases of the output transistors.

The upper transistor would have a high DC current all the time if the speaker was connected to it and to ground without a coupling capacitor to the speaker. Then the upper transistor and the speaker would get hot.
With a coupling capacitor feeding the speaker then there is no DC current.

Also with a dual polarity supply there is no DC current.

 

So here's what I will do:

I will ground Vee, supply half the positive DC power supply to non-inverting pin of opamp, and the other half to Vcc. Then, I'll feed the output of this opamp to class AB power amp, and then add a capacitor in series with my load to block the upper DC. Am I missing anything?

 

Don't forget to set the gain with negative feedback.

 

Ok. I just wanted to say that in the last dual-supply amplifier I made, those input coupling capacitors didn't work...my output was zero when I had them in. Any idea why??

 

It's very much a matter of personal preference, as all of the op-amps have their own "personality". Their characteristics may appear the same, but they actually present audible differences.

My personal favourite is the Burr-Brown OPA134-series.

 

Ok. I just wanted to say that in the last dual-supply amplifier I made, those input coupling capacitors didn't work...my output was zero when I had them in. Any idea why??

You never showed the amplifier with an input coupling capacitor and never said it didn't work. Maybe it was missing the 100k input biasing resistor.

 

5532 used to be the best audio gain block back in the 80's, it's still pretty good.

 

I want to build my own amplifier for home and I want to use top-of-the-line stuff...what is the best opamp and transistors I should use? I will be using +/- 15V DC power supply for my amplifier, and my speakers are 60W, 4Ohm speakers.

Here is a design of a stereo amp for +/-15V usage. You can upgrade the output transistors to higher current devices if you want to deliver more continuous power. You can also use a "better" op amp, but the one shown is more than adequate for amplifying line-level audio signals (where 0 dB is 550 mV RMS). I use this to drive 4 Ohm headphones.

 

Bounty: Thanks, but how come there's only one output? Isn't there supposed to be two outputs for stereo??

You never showed the amplifier with an input coupling capacitor and never said it didn't work. Maybe it was missing the 100k input biasing resistor.

Well I placed the input coupling resistors & capacitors on my actual circuit and I was getting no output. It works on my simulation model (that is, nothing happens when they're there or not there) but on my actual circuit it would just totally turn off the circuit some how and i would get not output. As soon as I pluck them out the circuit starts working again...

 

Whenever you have an amplifier that doesn't work then you should measure the DC output voltage (before the output coupling capacitor if there is one).
The DC voltage should be half the total supply voltage (0V if it has a dual polarity supply). Then the output can swing equally up and down making AC at the speaker.