What tool to tighten?

Metalmann

Joined Dec 8, 2012
703
Since there is a tool for tightening those nuts, there should be a standard for defining the number of knurls? per inch/cm. I googled around looking for such, but didn't find it. I did find the attached document and was amused by the switch picture on page 5.



There is a standard for all knurls.

I ran millions of knurled pieces, of all sizes, on six-spindle screw machines in the 60s.
Some of our biggest orders were for circular saw blade, inserts. The knurl was on the O.D., smooth, reamed, bore at 5/8" on the I.D.
 

#12

Joined Nov 30, 2010
18,224
I have my best results with Loc-tite blue. It's advertised as a temporary hold chemical, but it stays in there permanently. The "lock washer" is supposed to keep the nut from un-screwing but one drop of Loc-tite is a very secure method.

I used the (red) "permanent" type, once. I had to hacksaw the nut off!
 

THE_RB

Joined Feb 11, 2008
5,438
Before everyone started saying "there's an app for that" some of us said "there's a tool for that". In this case, there are nut drivers made for knurled nuts.


...
Smarty pants! ;)

Seriously, you finger tighten the nut all the way down, then it takes 2 secs with some type of pliers to "nip" it tight. Setting up the size on that tool would probably take more than 2 secs as the nuts are all different.

But it might be good in a production environment with a heap of identical nuts. Thanks for posting.

BTW the last few batches of toggle switches I have seen all came with dual hex nuts, no round nuts. I expect round nuts are more expensive.
 

Gdrumm

Joined Aug 29, 2008
684
Most of the switches I've seen have a groove vertically through the threads, then a special washer with a tab on it. The washer often serves as the "On-Off" indicator as well, so you can only assemble it one way (poka-yoke).
I put the hex nut on next, and tighten it with a very thin profile open end wrench (a cheap set of tune up wrenches on the internet, and probably less than $10.00. I got mine for free). Anyway, I put the knurled nut on last, usually finger tight, or if extra tightness is needed, I carefully use the surgical pliers. I've always assumed the knurled nut went on last, because of it decorative effect; shiny brass, and all that.

I like the tool, I think I may need one.
 

Gdrumm

Joined Aug 29, 2008
684
Here is the one I got off of eBay, it's plastic, so it shouldn't mar.

With shipping, and Tx sales tax, it was a bit over $10.00.

It has Std., and Metric ends.

Gary
 

Attachments

I have the actual tool made for this, but you do not tighten the knurled nut. You tighten the back nut.

I had or still have a thin very short wrench that is bent. It's about 3" long has different sizes on each end and is bent in a 90 and then another 90 about a 1/2" later.

It's a wrench similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Offset-Timing-Tension-Wrench-Porsche/dp/B00AFZ2UDK but smaller and has a different size on each end.

Finding one is probably as hard as finding a cut and clinch tool.
 
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strantor

Joined Oct 3, 2010
6,782
I've always used hemostats as described in the 2nd reply, works beautifully, doesn't scratch, and it saves me from having to buy and carry around one more singular purpose tool (although I must admit I didn't know the special tool exists, but now that I do, I think it's cool, but not cool enough to buy it).

Thinking about this special tool, and what was said earlier about the a switch being sent with two hex nuts (I've gotten some like that too), wouldn't it make more sense to put the knurled round nut on the back side as shown in the amusing page 5 pic (still not sure what the amusing part was) and the hex nut on the front side, and then tighten the hex nut from the from with a deep well socket? I've never done it that way, but maybe next time I will, just to see.
 

tracecom

Joined Apr 16, 2010
3,944
...wouldn't it make more sense to put the knurled round nut on the back side as shown in the amusing page 5 pic (still not sure what the amusing part was)...
The amusing part to me (maybe ironic would have been a better word to choose) was that a manufacturer of nuts (both hex and knurled) for use in such applications would post a photo of the nuts arranged in the wrong order.

In answer to why one shouldn't do this, it is strictly a matter of appearance. Some people (me included) think that the knurled nut looks better on the front of the panel.

Having done quite a lot of home-brewing radio equipment as a "ham" in the 1970's, I can attest that, for the sake of avoiding damage to the front panel paint and labeling, it is much better to assemble the switch as I have previously described, i.e., put the hex nut on the back of the panel and the knurled nut on the front, and then tighten the hex nut with a wrench on the back of the panel. And, call me old fashioned, but I still think that's the correct way.
 

KJ6EAD

Joined Apr 30, 2011
1,581
Thinking about this special tool, and what was said earlier about the a switch being sent with two hex nuts (I've gotten some like that too), wouldn't it make more sense to put the knurled round nut on the back side as shown in the amusing page 5 pic (still not sure what the amusing part was) and the hex nut on the front side, and then tighten the hex nut from the from with a deep well socket? I've never done it that way, but maybe next time I will, just to see.
Most people who go to the trouble of buying the special knurled nut driver do so because they have to protect the finish of what they're attaching the switch to (guitars are a common application) and they can't easily access the rear nut to tighten it.

Sockets usually don't work well on the hex nuts because the nuts are thin and don't rise far enough above the entry chamfer on the socket. You can grind away the chamfer to make a socket work but nut drivers often work well as they have less chamfer to begin with.
 
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