What kind of tool fits these knurled nuts used on switches?

My fingers just don't get them tight. I've resorted to putting the knurled backside and the hex nut on front. At least I can get a wrench on the hex.

 

Slip-joint pliers with serrated teeth that match the knurl pitch.

Use caution, don't mangle the nut or scratch the faceplate!

A lockwasher on the rear side, along with a drop of removable Locktite on the threads helps prevent it from coming loose long term, then you don't need to use as much force on the nut.

 

Surgical hemostats (surgical clamps) are perfect for those nuts. Nice fine serrated jaws. Electronic and industrial supply vendors carry them.

Ken

 

"girlie" fingers just don't cut it.

Lets see... whats the name of the tool for a fastener designed to be "tool-less" ??

 

I always thought that one should put the hex nut on first, insert the shaft through the panel, put the serrated nut on to the depth required by the panel thickness, and then tighten the hex nut against the rear of the panel. (Avoids scarring the front of the panel.)

 

I'd agree with tracecom, set the depth correctly with the knurled nut and then tighten at the back with the hex nut, can be awkward though, a right angle spanner can be handy

 

+ 1 Tracecom, that's the procedure I was taught a hundred years ago....

Edit: A right angle spanner can be a crows foot wrench..

 

Can anyone show a picture of that thing assembled as "it should"?

 

A wrench from a moped, bicycle, or bi-fold door is thin enough to make a good tool for this.

Not difficult to make one from scratch with a hacksaw and file.

 

I use large pliers with curved concave areas on the jaws that are serrated.

Good grip, good matching radius, no damage to the round nut.

 

You can normally tighten them quite well if you use a sharp, pointy thing and push it round.

 

I just used these. Work fine but I used a big pair so they are not opened to their extreme when pinching the bolts. The serrations curve at the tip to align with those of the knurled nut.

 

Before everyone started saying "there's an app for that" some of us said "there's a tool for that". In this case, there are nut drivers made for knurled nuts.

http://www.tessco.com/products/displayProductInfo.do?sku=477526

http://www.tessco.com/products/displayProductInfo.do?sku=361855

 

Before everyone started saying "there's an app for that" some of us said "there's a tool for that". In this case, there are nut drivers made for knurled nuts.

http://www.tessco.com/products/displayProductInfo.do?sku=477526

http://www.tessco.com/products/displayProductInfo.do?sku=361855

That's new to me, and I'm not new.

 

New to me too. Good to know.

 

Since there is a tool for tightening those nuts, there should be a standard for defining the number of knurls? per inch/cm. I googled around looking for such, but didn't find it. I did find the attached document and was amused by the switch picture on page 5.

 

Since there is a tool for tightening those nuts, there should be a standard for defining the number of knurls? per inch/cm. I googled around looking for such, but didn't find it. I did find the attached document and was amused by the switch picture on page 5.

Quite an old model.

 

amused by the switch picture on page
5.

3 hours later.......................................................................................................................................
........


Oh I see!!!!!!!!!!!

 

If you don't have any if these specialized tools, I use a pair of narrow needlenose pliers.

I'll put a small piece of masking tape on a piece of glass. Then, trace the knurled nut on the tape. With a razor knife, cut out the inside of the circle.

After inserting the switch and lightly screwing on the nut, I place the masking tape over the nut. Then, using the needlenose pliers doesn't scratch the face plate. Repeat as necessary.

 

A wrench from a moped, bicycle, or bi-fold door is thin enough to make a good tool for this.

Not difficult to make one from scratch with a hacksaw and file.

Same here.