No, it is completely wrong. Both impedance and wattage rating are important. Impedance tells you the average "resistance" of the speaker when powered by the amplifier. Wattage rating tells you the maximum RMS power that the speaker can accept without getting blown. For sure you don't want to hook up a 10W speaker to a 100W amplifier. It will burn at high volume, and worse, you can short out the output of the amplifier in the process, rendering it unusable (though most amplifiers have short circuit protection).Wattage ratings on speakers means absolutely nothing. The impedance tells you important information.
The power rating on a speaker expresses the power through the coil upon which full deflection of the speaker cone occurs in one direction or the other. This is directly related to the strength of the magnet inside the speaker that the coil surrounds, as well as the coil inductance/resistance/capacitance (impedance). If too much power is inputed, the coil may overheat or the cone may fracture/rip.I have a speaker which has 8ohms and 0.5W written at the back. What does that mean? From this can I calculate the max or min voltage or current the speaker can take?
OK, let's not go there. You have to have something to go by. I would not install a 1W speaker if I'm looking to pump out 100W. I play bass and my speaker is rated at 400W and I believe it!If you think speaker's printed watt ratings are anything besides pure BS, I have a bridge I'll sell you.
The speaker power handling ratings that you often see advertised are among the most misunderstood and often exaggerated specs you will find in the consumer electronics world.
So, how important are power handling ratings for speakers anyway? Not very important at all, as it turns out. There are a few ways that speakers are commonly damaged. When driven by too much power, a woofer can reach the mechanical limits of the travel of the cone, or more specifically, the voice coil. The voice coil is suspended in a magnetic field and moves piston-like to move the cone. If it travels too far, it will bottom out on the magnet, which can cause permanent damage. Physical damage to the voice coil can then blow your amplifier.
Back in the early days of hi-fi, the way manufacturers came up with performance specifications varied widely, making it difficult if not impossible to compare products. The industry then came up with standard test methods and criteria for publishing specifications. Participation from manufacturers is voluntary//
Speakers, however, can be an exception. Test methods and standards are not as cut and dried. One manufacturer might rate the power handling across the full spectrum of frequencies that the speaker reproduces, while another may look only at one particular frequency. Now try to define the maximum that the speaker can handle. Does it handle that much power when driven continuously, or just for a fraction of a second? Is the maximum the point just before the speaker is physically damaged? How many speakers do you blow in order to determine that point? There are just too many variables.
Its all already said right there.. Just like anything that's knocked off/copied,etc.. The ratings printed on the "fakes" are typically just as "fake" as the product itself.. But if you purchase the "real thing" you can usually count on there being some "sound" (no pun intended) reasoning behind the printed/stated ratings.Cheap speakers have fake power ratings. High quality speakers have detailed and true power ratings.
As people have said these numbers have limited use. I think on the surface it is supposed to be *claiming* that this speaker has 8 Ohms of Impedance. And can *handle* 1/2 watt of power. As everyone is pointing out, that is probably debatable.I have a speaker which has 8ohms and 0.5W written at the back. What does that mean? From this can I calculate the max or min voltage or current the speaker can take?
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