What can I make from a generator?

Thread Starter

stanman11

Joined Nov 23, 2010
228
Bought a 1000w coleman at a yard sale for $5. doesnt produce power but runs very good.
I Lokked for loose wires and fiddle around. I found a black wire with 2 female connectors on the ends. just sitting in it. not sure if it fell in there or came off it but I cant find a place for it.

What would you do with it?
 

elec_mech

Joined Nov 12, 2008
1,500
doesnt produce power but runs very good.
Can you look up the model and get a schematic? There may be troubleshooting steps in the manual. If the engine is running fine, but the voltage is low or non-existant, then the issue is in the generator. Is there any output voltage? Is there a frequency on the output regardless if voltage is present?

It could be:
  • A bad or missing regulator - not use if they use one in something that size
  • The windings could be shorted - can check to see if there is a short between the stator windings (wires going to outlet) and the chassis of the unit.
  • Generator may need to be flashed (unlikely)
Let us know what voltage and frequency, if any, there is at the output using a meter. If you can provide the make and model, we can help look up the manual and schematics.
 

BMorse

Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,675
If you can't get the original generator head to work (I'm sure with everyone on here that's willing to help, with a few pictures and some multimeter readings the issue can be sorted out)....

You could always buy a generator head from Harbor Freight or something and replace the one in it they have a 10KW one for $399.00 :)....

Or find a PM DC Motor large enough to use as a generator.....

or use it to drive a log splitter hydraulic pump....
 

Thread Starter

stanman11

Joined Nov 23, 2010
228
Can you look up the model and get a schematic? There may be troubleshooting steps in the manual. If the engine is running fine, but the voltage is low or non-existant, then the issue is in the generator. Is there any output voltage? Is there a frequency on the output regardless if voltage is present?

It could be:
  • A bad or missing regulator - not use if they use one in something that size
  • The windings could be shorted - can check to see if there is a short between the stator windings (wires going to outlet) and the chassis of the unit.
  • Generator may need to be flashed (unlikely)
Let us know what voltage and frequency, if any, there is at the output using a meter. If you can provide the make and model, we can help look up the manual and schematics.
sadly theres no manuals for it online as its discontinued and coleman sold the rights to some one else
I tryied to check but 2 of my meters passed of old age.
I will check again i have 2 more meters.
I also tried to slash it with a 120v drill that i attached to another drill to spin it faster. nothing happened.

i'll get back on the output
 

Thread Starter

stanman11

Joined Nov 23, 2010
228
Ok so I tested with a meter and the output was 0.
I then tested the dc charger port and it was running at 15v.
Then tested the the ac again and it was fluctuating around.
on the 500v setting on the tester it was fluctuates around 120.
but some times fluctuates erratic or just doesn't work
 

shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
10,045
Sounds like magnets got too hot and lost magnetic charge. Some magnets can be recharged, some can't. Find a lawn mower repair shop that been in business for a long time, they should have a magnet charging machine. The old mower magnetos did this all the time and it was common to repair the flywheel magnets.

Or you could do it yourself with this book - http://www.lindsaybks.com/dgjp/djgbk/magneto/index.html
 

Thread Starter

stanman11

Joined Nov 23, 2010
228
found this thing in the corner.
not sure what its for or what it does but its prnt. could this be an issue?
I think its a ceramic resistor. does any body have one of these?
 
Last edited:

Sparky49

Joined Jul 16, 2011
833
A resistor, like anything that is burnt, it probably doesn't do its job properly.

I would be suprised if that was the problem though.
 

debe

Joined Sep 21, 2010
1,390
If there is sliprings & brushes on the Rotor, check they are not wornout. If they are ok, its probably a votage regulator problem. Some decent pictures of the Voltage reg & the brush assy would be a help if you want to try & fix it.
 

Thread Starter

stanman11

Joined Nov 23, 2010
228
If there is sliprings & brushes on the Rotor, check they are not wornout. If they are ok, its probably a votage regulator problem. Some decent pictures of the Voltage reg & the brush assy would be a help if you want to try & fix it.
I dont think this one is made with a VR.Or with brushes
 

tester272001

Joined Aug 24, 2012
18
Looks like a wirewound resistor. I'd replace the resistor, since most restistors are not 20% tolerance (yours is off by 25%). Usually those wire wound ones are like 1% or 5% (I think the J is the tolerance). Thats an easy thing to try before tearing the generator out and bringing to a mower shop.
 

debe

Joined Sep 21, 2010
1,390
If it doesnt have a VR board, then what is the purpose of the circuit board in the picture? Most of these generators have some form of regulation. Either an AVR board or they use a Capacitor & reactance winding.
 

Thread Starter

stanman11

Joined Nov 23, 2010
228



need close ups of anything or need more information? Let me know.
And thanks for all the help so far guys. I really appreciate all of you taking the time to help me out.
 

panic mode

Joined Oct 10, 2011
2,751
before looking closer at PCB, i would try to determine if windings are ok.
as for PCB i'd first clean it, probably give it a rinse with warm water and use brush too, then dry it, replace 1.5k 5w resistor and check surrounding components. specially do careful check on anything that is on or near heatsink, and power resistors. if you are ordering resistors, it would be good idea to get more than one as it may smoke again until you find true reason for it's condition. i don't see any partnumbers of components in TO220 form, but they would have to be checked carefully including verifying that each is really functional and isolated from heatsink (should be because i see white sink compound around the tab). next i would check all diodes and then connect PCB back and try to run the thing again...
 
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