I actually bought one very similar to the one shown. I drilled a lage hole in the bottoms of a 3-pound coffee can and smaller holes for the mounting screws. I then put two single-gang switch boxes (one on each side). It is not pretty but I consider it safe and functional.In the process of building a Hi-pot device, [ among other delinquent projects ] and using a couple of hefty Ohmite creamic rheostats for the variation controls...
The face of the cabinet is 1/4 " dark grey "lexan" for its insulation...
The type of brush as used in an automotive starter, copper impregnated...or I believe they refer to it as sintered copper/carbon... or a piece of the positive electrode from a D cell battery might be less abrasive on the coilsAlso, a piece of carbon that looks like it contacts the coiled wire as the dial is turned is broken and partially missing. Can I use a DC motor brush to replace that?
How exactly did you "cement in a custom sized replacement"? If the "cement" is separating the two parts, there will be no electrical contact and it will not work at all. What kind of "cement" did you use? How did you glue it in place?I found a terminal strip to replace the broken box.
I filed away the broken brush and cemented in a custom sized replacement.
Now I'm looking to wire it up to power.
Please see the attached .bmp.
I need to understand where to wire my inputs, common and hot, and my outputs.
I am also curious about the reversable dial (referred to in the .bmp.
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