Tube Radio Info Needed.

Discussion in 'General Electronics Chat' started by ross, May 7, 2012.

  1. ross

    Thread Starter Member

    Jul 30, 2010
    Hi all,I know my way around solid state stuff fairly well,but I have recently started to restore an old Philips Radio model 168 portable ac/dc 6 Tubes and a magic eye,trouble is its hard for me to follow the schematic! Mainly because there are no corresponding numbers on the chassis to orientate myself with and some of the components are completely alien to me, :confused: so does anyone know of anywhere or any links so that an ignoramus like me can be comprehensively enlightened to this ancient craft ?LOL Ive tried the premier site in Australia but the site is more vintage than my radio.
  2. Lundwall_Paul

    Active Member

    Oct 18, 2011
    Can you post the schematic and list the tube numbers? be glad to help.
  3. bertus


    Apr 5, 2008
    #12 likes this.
  4. chuckey

    Well-Known Member

    Jun 4, 2007
    First of all, an AC/DC set normally has its chassis connected to one side of the mains. It is extremely dangerous if this is the LIVE side of the mains. Best to use an isolating transformer. Also the HT line ~250v DC is connected to the mains via a low value resistor and a rectifier so it is also very dangerous. Live old timers alway keep one hand in their pocket while poking around in these sort of sets.
    Valves were made in families, "E" = 6.3V filaments has a filament transformer. "U" = 100 mA filaments - fils all in series - no transformers. "P" 300mA fils - fils in series - no transformer. Apart from their filaments ratings, their connections were the same and the control grids were on pin 2 for a B9a base.
    So whats wrong with the set? With these sort of sets the HT rectifier (UY 85?) and or the sound output (UL84/ UCL82?) dies.
    Keep those fingers out.
  5. #12


    Nov 30, 2010
    Ah yes, one of my personal rules about electricity, "There is no such thing as an old, stupid, repairman."

    Wear dry shoes, stand on something dry like a rubber mat (concrete is not dry), keep one hand in your pocket when it's plugged in, don't let anyone touch you, don't let anyone talk to you, don't get in a position where you're going to bust your head or your elbow if you flinch, use tools with insulated handles, measure for both AC and DC voltage from the chasis to earth ground to see if it's "hot", stuff like that.