These are in pairs? On/off/toggle?There are in all 14 push led illuminated momentary switches...
How many positions in each rotary switch? And, what are their functions?..., 5 home brew rotary switches...
And these are on/off or on/off/on? Sounds like these won't need anything special except perhaps a reset when the master switch is turned off....3 toggles.
Danger! Danger! Weight & balance limits exceeded...(and a partridge in a pear tree)
OK, so I'm not sure where you need our help then?The main panel is built in modules and the ordinary on off functions work a treat with the 74hc74 and 4016's.
It's up to you. There would be a number of advantages to change to a CD4013, and they are not all that pricey - at least not here in the States; I have no idea what you might have to pay in the UK.I have a lot of components to hand (as I do pcb boards) and the fact of having them do make them more attractive.
Not so much that the IC is better; it's how many other parts you will have to buy to get the circuit to do what you want. Might as well just get the "easy to use" IC's in the first place, as you will have to solder everything together. The more joints you have, the more likely something will go wrong.Ok if it was just one or two then yes the few pence for the better chip is worth it ...
Well, all that "peripheral stuff" really does need to be considered.I am in fact using 74HC74's just too lazy to type it all and I was really only interested in the function of the logic than the peripheral stuff debounce/power supply/decoupling/et al.
At this point, I'm not sure of a good way to reset the 74HC74's when the master switch is turned off. Could get messy. It would be a snap with the CD4013's.
As long as the supplies all have a common ground/earth, then there isn't a lot to worry about there.I wasn't thinking so much of complete electrical isolation more just a simple way for switching an 'off board' common and input pair.
re:LEDs
Consider using PWM to control the LED brightness. A variable supply won't work so well, particularly if you have different color LEDs in the mix.Yes thanks for the heads up on that one Very good point the actual back lighting LEDs for the panel will be on a variable.
You'll need current limiting resistors regardless.The LEDs on the switches do not have to be bright so I have that covered with resistor arrays.
PWM will take care of that nicely.My real challenge (if I decide to go that far ) will be to make the 23 x 7 seg displays dim-able. A challenge because the power requirement will alter with differing sets of numbers (how to keep them all the same intensity?).....might leave that out eh?
Any chance you can post it/them in a form that is intelligible to us?I have both flow diags and schematics (of a sort....nowhere as neat as yours but I know what they mean)