Well, rhen we know the door is functional when running on mains voltage which is a pretty pure sine wave. We know that a 1/2 HP motor running on 120 VAC will draw just about 6.5 Amps so if we multiply that 6.5 amps * the 120 VAC we get a power draw of about 780 Watts which is way below your inverter's max power rating of 1500 watts. Motors like what you have typically have a high "inrush current" . While inrush current has a peak current value, the term “Inrush Current” is commonly used to describe the current that is required to energize an AC powered device or product when first applying voltage and power to it. This is especially true for inductive loads such as transformers, Inductors and electric motors. While only lasting for a split second that inrush current for a motor starting under load that current can be many times the motors normal run current.Yes, the door can run easily by Line power. even manually.
"The PROwatt SW Series feature True Sine-Wave AC output with 540, 900 and 1800 continuous watts respectively. With high surge capability, the PROwatt SW Series provides the necessary current to startup demanding electrical loads such as variable speed power tools, advanced electrical appliances, microwaves and much more. In addition to dual GFCI AC receptacles, the PROwatt SW Series include an innovative USB connection for providing power to most USB chargeable devices. The PROwatt SW Series offers many safety features not found in similar inverters. When equipped with a remote control, the PROwatt SW Series has the ability to provide automatic ignition lockout shutting down the inverter’s output when the vehicle’s ignition is not engaged".I've used this inverter to run motors and AC units with great success for years.
http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-inverters/prowatt-sw.aspx
It's works great but it won't give that great surge capacity without some huge DC wiring running 12vdc @ 300A+. I've got 4/0 gauge copper cables with 10-ton hydraulic crimped lugs for the DC feed connections to the battery bank, bank selector switch and inverter."The PROwatt SW Series feature True Sine-Wave AC output with 540, 900 and 1800 continuous watts respectively. With high surge capability, the PROwatt SW Series provides the necessary current to startup demanding electrical loads such as variable speed power tools, advanced electrical appliances, microwaves and much more. In addition to dual GFCI AC receptacles, the PROwatt SW Series include an innovative USB connection for providing power to most USB chargeable devices. The PROwatt SW Series offers many safety features not found in similar inverters. When equipped with a remote control, the PROwatt SW Series has the ability to provide automatic ignition lockout shutting down the inverter’s output when the vehicle’s ignition is not engaged".
Very nice inverter and a TSW output.
Ron
Good stuff never is cheap or I guess it would be cheap stuff. But the right good stuff you can rely upon.It's works great but it won't give that great surge capacity without some huge DC wiring running 12vdc @ 300A+. I've got 4/0 gauge copper cables with 10-ton hydraulic crimped lugs for the DC feed connections to the battery bank, bank selector switch and inverter.
Example: Not cheap.
https://www.batterycablesusa.com/0000-gauge-battery-cable-with-ends-4-0-awg
I've dumpster dived lots of heavy copper wire over the years but it's hard to find today.Good stuff never is cheap or I guess it would be cheap stuff. But the right good stuff you can rely upon.
Ron
So, you were out in my garage and took a picture? I tend to overkill with wire gauge. Watched a guy set his car on fire using zip cord (18 AWG lamp cord) to connect a 500 watt audio amp. Ran it through the firewall and under carpeting to the trunk. Was like det cord.I've dumpster dived lots of heavy copper wire over the years but it's hard to find today.
Wrong wire size is the #1 mistake when installing something like a 12vdc inverter for large surge loads. Almost any measurable wire resistance can drop the voltage at the inverter below the under-volt cutout point on 12vdc systems running AC induction motors causing a shutdown in milliseconds.
I see people using 10 gauge wire for 5 foot one-way distance DC cables. Yes, it will usually work for smaller resistive loads. Going overkill on wire gauge eliminates the voltage drop issue and going to a higher DC source voltage inverter reduces the peak current wiring gauge requirements.
https://www.calculator.net/voltage-...nce=5&distanceunit=feet&eres=300&x=71&y=15
So, you were out in my garage and took a picture? I tend to overkill with wire gauge. Watched a guy set his car on fire using zip cord (18 AWG lamp cord) to connect a 500 watt audio amp. Ran it through the firewall and under carpeting to the trunk. Was like det cord.
Ron
See post #9NO, you need to know if the inverter outputs a MSW or TSW out
Those are 12 volt batteries and placing two 12 volt lead acid batteries in parallel will yield about 12 volts, closer to 12.6 volts on charged batteries. Your inverter is designed for a 12 volt input. so where did this come from?I used two MTP-78 batteries in parallel, each of them has 800 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA).
RonMy two almost new batteries got bad, they was ~28 V drop to ~21V after hooked to the inverter. and they can't be charged now, I mean just got to ~23V after more than 11 hours charging.