Synchronous motor

Thread Starter

jimmyplumb

Joined Nov 20, 2013
15
My daughter has given me a project as her husband seems to have messed things up. The project is a Christmas tree! stand. ie:- one that the light on it continually turn colour by means of. A 12v light, A 12v 6a synchronous motor with a coloured disk on top that spins & changes the light's colouring
The problem is her husband has been messing with the wiring & I need to
reconnect every thing but using copper strip board but I need a diagram to work to. On The original board there is 4 x 400 diodes 1 x 740 capacitor in the circuit. the power is 12v DC the contents are 1 x 12v led light ,1 x 12v d fan for cooling & 1 x TYC-40 12v 6a 1-2w 50/60 Hz synchronous motor

Any help would be very welcome

Jim
 

BillB3857

Joined Feb 28, 2009
2,570
You don't mention a transformer. Is one a part of the system? If so, the motor would be wired to the transformer secondary. They are probably the same points the bridge rectifier tie to.
On the other hand, do you just have a box of parts and need to know how they all go together? You talk about using copper strip board. That is why I ask.
 

Thread Starter

jimmyplumb

Joined Nov 20, 2013
15
Many thanks for your prompt reply. There is no transformer in the circuit. basically you are nearly right when you say a box of components. I have a pc type board with all the components mention on it but the wiring has been messed about so I thought it best to start from scratch, Also in the circuit is a 6amp thermal fuse

jim
 

BillB3857

Joined Feb 28, 2009
2,570
I looked up the motor. Ebay has a bunch of them and they are 12VAC synch motors. Without a transformer, I don't see how you go from 120VAC down to 12, unless they are using the series string of lights to drop the voltage.
If so, this thread will probably be closed as a line-operated project.
One other possibility is that there WAS a wal-wart type transformer that simply didn't make it with the rest of the parts.
 

BillB3857

Joined Feb 28, 2009
2,570
The motor is a 1.5W 6RPM motor, per the various listings on eBay with that part number.
Looks like we need further clarifications from the OP.
 

BillB3857

Joined Feb 28, 2009
2,570
The main question remains.... Everything I see, and you have listed in post #1, says 12V. Where does the 12V come from. Show us a picture of where the power comes in to the unit.
 

djsfantasi

Joined Apr 11, 2010
9,156
The third picture appears to have a jack for a wall wart at 8pm of the base. This appears to connect to a power switch at 6pm. I believe this answers the power question. Perhaps you are missing a wall wart.

As far as the light, can anyone trace how power is getting to it? It doesn't look as if will work wired as diagrammed. I don't see a path to ground.

Is this disassembled? Have / can you breadboard it, and check with a DMM that the correct voltages are reaching the connections for the motor, fan, and light? Also, at each of the connections for each load, unpowered, are there any shorts?
 

shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
10,045
I'm a total amateur so this may be wrong.

The schematic makes no sense.
1. the 'light' connections have one side to a 12V dc positive source and the other to a 12V ac source. They should be to either AC or DC, not mixed.

2. The thermal fuse is connected between 12V dc positive and 12V dc negative. This makes the fuse a dead short.

You still haven't said what the real problem your having with the circuit. Or what the 12V supply is coming from.
 

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BillB3857

Joined Feb 28, 2009
2,570
My bet is that the board is only a filtered bridge to run the fan, as well as being a tie point for the incoming AC from a wal wart that will supply AC to the lamp. If it happened to be a DC wal wart, the bridge wild correct any improper polarity connection and protect the fan. Hook the light to incoming power, fan red lead to the point that has the two diode banded ends together, fan black lead to the point that has the two diode unbanded leads together. Incoming power leads will go, lead 1 to one pad that has one banded and one unbanded diode connection. The other incoming lead goes to the other connection that has one unbanded and one banded diode connection. Make sure that any wal wart is capable of supplying the wattage needed. The fan won't take much but if you divide the wattage of the lamp by 12, that should give you the minimum current required. Get a wal wart that has more capacity to help keep it cool.
 

bertz

Joined Nov 11, 2013
327
Looks like a full wave bridge. I'll bet dollars to donuts that there is a step-down transformer buried somewhere in that base.

Does the base have a cord that plugs into a 120 VAC outlet?
 

Thread Starter

jimmyplumb

Joined Nov 20, 2013
15
forget the drawing it is wrong I will have to redo it myself as he has done it wrong

Sorry guys I will reopen when I get the drawing amended

Jim
 
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