OK, so I got a multimeter. I had a look at one that had continuity mode but they didn't have it in stock, so I got one without for now under the impression I can still test the continuity using resistance mode (without the beep albeit).
So I guess that means I'll be testing resistance and continuity at the same time. I've done a quick little test and the positive (inside pins) on the end of each cable does indeed have a current, whereas the negative (outer barrels) don't. On the switch, you get a current through it as long as the switch is set to the right position (as it should, I guess)
I'm not quite sure about the female 3.3/5.5mm jack as the female hole for the 1mm pin is so small that the MM contact won't fit in and touch any of the metal that I'm assuming is inside. However, I unscrewed the barrel on the connector and just touched the red contact to where the red wire is actually soldered into the connector instead, which got a current. Putting the red contact onto the outside contacts of the plug momentarily gives me a -1, which I guess is right, but then it changes to bigger numbers then slowly goes down 0.04, not sure if this is meant to happen?
A couple of questions though:
1) How many ohms should the positive pins on each end of the cable be reading - if they're working properly that is?
2) Is there a way to check for shorts or reversals?
Thanks
So I guess that means I'll be testing resistance and continuity at the same time. I've done a quick little test and the positive (inside pins) on the end of each cable does indeed have a current, whereas the negative (outer barrels) don't. On the switch, you get a current through it as long as the switch is set to the right position (as it should, I guess)
I'm not quite sure about the female 3.3/5.5mm jack as the female hole for the 1mm pin is so small that the MM contact won't fit in and touch any of the metal that I'm assuming is inside. However, I unscrewed the barrel on the connector and just touched the red contact to where the red wire is actually soldered into the connector instead, which got a current. Putting the red contact onto the outside contacts of the plug momentarily gives me a -1, which I guess is right, but then it changes to bigger numbers then slowly goes down 0.04, not sure if this is meant to happen?
A couple of questions though:
1) How many ohms should the positive pins on each end of the cable be reading - if they're working properly that is?
2) Is there a way to check for shorts or reversals?
Thanks