Do this.
Print the diagram of ZG schema.
Measure all the voltage and note them down on the diagram.
Scan it or do what ever u can to show me the voltage levels.

I have to see it to tell u anything.

I believe there is a shorted transistor in that board

 

I will do that right away

 

See the attached....mark on it..all the voltage
Have the ground tightly connected. Beware of loose & jumping voltages
If in doubt, do it again..Be sure.

 

Ok, well now all the voltages are normal.. i have no clue why, i havent changed anything.. but the voltages are normal, here is the voltages... but the green is still pincushioning

 

I figured tht would happen. It always does
Check the cable connections as per the schematic, make sure that no cable has inter changed.

 

Ok, will do, i believe they are all connected properly though, i checked all the ones i was unsure of while i was reconnecting everything, so i think that is correct, but i will check them again

 

Here is another thought.
It could be one of the convergence driver is faulty.

This measurement is quite difficult. See page 126, I have attached the pdf to show you what I am refering to.

The Convergence amps are STK's. 2 of them are there. It could be one is faulty as I have seen faulty STK's. It might have faulted during the sparking, I cannot say for sure.

IC5005 & IC5006.

What I would do is first try to measure the voltages as per the schema, but to make sure you need a scope to see the signal. DC might be OK, but without a scope AC cannot be confirmed.

I am not asking you to do this as I dunno your soldering level.

But the trick I use is to swap the STK's and check the picture for a difference. By this I can guarantee that If the Picture is as before, The STK's are fine. IF not, one is definitely faulty.

From the schema, you can see the internal OPAMPS used to drive the respective coil. Study it and be careful..U will be probing a very difficult area if you plan to go ahead.

{ED}
One more thing, make sure to check the low value resistors around the STK's. All the 4.7 ohm ones & the 3.15A fuses. .
Fuses are connected to pin 20,21 & 22 of both the STK's

 

I am pretty good at soldering, been soldering for 6 years, and i can solder SMD components too, as long as i have some soldering resin of corse

But i currently dont have a desoldering iron to remove the STKs, my old one broke, so i would have to purchase a new desoldering iron first (i prefer using a desoldering iron instead of desoldering braid or even a desoldering pump, it works best in my oppion, a lot of times i will just use a soldering iron to unsolder things, but it really depends on the part that i am soldering and its temperature tolerances)


Also i replaced the STKs about a year ago when the tv had major convergence issues, also when the tv is running, i can feel the heat coming from them, which of course doesnt mean they are good, but it means they are recieving power

(yes, when i replaced the ICs i did put new thermal paste on it, i also replaced the 4.7 ohm resistors too)

so i am hopeing the STKs arnt dead because they were hard to find...


And i have a old CRT tv, its a 12 inch tv, that i converted into a diy oscilloscope a while back, by modifying the deflection coil (i believe i cut the vertical and horizontal cables, then connected the horizontal from the mobo to the vertical on the deflection coil, then i connected wire up to the horizontal coil so i have control over what is fed into the coil, i tried it with my laptop by playing back a sawtooth tone, the laptop was connected to a simple audio amp, and the output of the amp was connected to the leads of the coil, the tv showed the sawtooth tone without a problem.

quick and simple DIY oscilloscope, may not be nearly as fancy as actual oscilloscopes, but it works great

 

Good.
Then U know what to do ?

 

yep, check voltages, or try to swap the two STKs and see if the picture improves or gets worse on the green tube

am i correct?

 

yup.........

 

i swapped the two STKs, no change...

it was a pain swapping them without a desoldering iron, it would of made it much easier if i could of removed the heatsink.. but it wouldnt come out.. so i didnt force it (i heated up the solder pads for the heatsink, melted the solder, but the pins that hold the heatsink on wouldnt come up..

but after 2 hours of careful removal of the STKs, cleaning and prepping the solder pads, putting new thermal paste on, and carefully aligning the pins and soldering them back in place.. the green tube is still pincushioning, so the STKs are fine...

I checked all the resistors in that area, and the fuses, all are good.

i checked for any visible burn marks on any of the boards, there was on on the power supply board (K board?) but thats been there for years, and there arnt any damaged components there..

(i couldnt find my DIY scope, i may of put it in storage, but if i have to, i can put together another one because i have a spare portable tv that i could most likely hack into a oscope)

i know for a fact that all the settings in the service menu are correct (i have the settings written down)

its not anything with the circuitry (unless something else could cause it)

all cables are properly connected

purity magnents havent been moved/changed

deflection coil is properly aligned

could it posibly be something with the tube itself or maybe with the lens? the only adjustment i have found on the lens is the focus adjustment...


the green started pincushioning after i removed the tube try (the metal frame where all three tubes mount. but i didnt move the tube tray very far, and it didnt hit anything, i did, however, remove the tubes one by one, to inspect and clean them, when i removed them, i made sure the focus nut was tight and i set the tube lens down on my living room table (i first put a blanket on the table to keep the tube's lens, or the table from getting scratched) then i cleaned the tubes neck, removed the bolts holding the tube to the black frame part (only on one side, i did it to the side where the grounding bracket is) and cleaned the tube there so there isnt any dust between the tube and the grounding bracket, then i put the bracket back on and bolted it down.

i repeated this for all three tubes...

i got the instructions on how to clean them from my uncle.. he lives on the other side of the USA, but i talk to him on the phone a lot, he used to repair tv sets, but he never had to align or diagnois a distortion problem with a rear projection crt tv.. only a rear projection LCD tv, and he said that was just some settings that got lost because of a eeprom getting fried..

he did, although, say it may possibly be the coolant in the tube (well not in the tube, but in the black part mounted to the tube) but he said that could only be the cause if the coolant dried up or became gunky..


any ideas on what to do next?

also i am unable to clear the error codes from the error recording screen...
pressing (display) (8) (+) (power) takes me to the service menu, then i press (8) (enter)
and it does it normal reset thing, but it will not clear the error codes...
unless the manual is lieing to me, im doing it right..

 

Any ideas on what to do next?

 

To remove the codes I think is it mute then 8. I am have to recheck those.

Try taking out the tube again and check for movement. From what U said this is my next move. Go thru the whole re-ensemble once again. I still believe it is mount adjustment.

Ur Uncle is correct about everything. And like him I did not have to meddle with alignment too much, so I have very little idea on how to get going without practically being at the set.


I have to see the schema again. My work schedule has changed since yesterday. I am a bit bzy. I can get online at night for a few days.
Sorry abt tht.

I suggest you remove the tubes and look for suspicious dissimilarity between the tubes.
One more thing, try to reset the screen and focus. Be careful not to turn too much as it might spark. Have a pattern signal and keep a look out for the picture change when u rotate the adjust.

 

Ok, i will try that, Also, thank you for taking the time to come on here and help me, i understand you are busy, and i appreciate your help, Thank you very much

 

Ok, i tried something, i dissassembled the tv, and reassessembled it on my living room table (only the circuit board try and the tubes, i connected everything up, powered the tv on, and checked the green tube by looking at it through my webcam (because it hurt my eyes looking at it directly (obviously...), still pincushioning, so i tried adjusting the purity magnets and it had NO CHANGE at all on the pincushioning, or anything else for that matter...

so i reassembled it all, and the green is still pincushioning, all three tubes look fine physically... the red and blue tube are perfectly clear, but the green is still pincushioning..

im begining to suspect that it may be a failing tube, or it is some circuitry somewhere... or maybe settings

I will try adjusting the focus and screen block in the morning

 

Hmm...A severe one, the purity will have very little effect. This means the set might need be aligned as per the manual. See the schema. There is alignment guide. Follow it and report back. I am giving this a thorough thought, as I have a trick that I do for gun testing.
I used in plain ones. Not sure how it would do for a rear projector.
Nevertheless it shouldn't damage anything.

First follow the alignment guide lines in the manual

 

Ok, i will do that

 

I still don't believe I am dealing with a 16 year old.

 

Heh, well i am 16, born in 94, my brother sparked my intrest in electronics at a early age, my brother and my dad did most of the repairs around the house, but then my dad passed away, and my brother got a job, leaveing me to do the repairs, which taught me a lot, and over the past few years i have been learning more and more a intrest turned into a hobby, and hopefully this hobby will turn into a career