Across the coil or in-line with the positive side?

Across the coil (in parallel) with cathode to positive side of coil.

A diode in series does nothing for transients since the transient voltage from the coil is in the direction as to forward bias the diode.

 

FlyNavy,

I took the liberty of redrawing your diagram.

A couple of things ...

(1) What model number is on your wireless control?
(2) On Relay CR7, the changeover relay, you do not indicate what your changing over from, normally the NC contacts. You certainly aren't parallelling the L1/L2 input lines from both commercial power and generator power.

 

The switch is on the Generator. It's function is to manually start and stop the generator. It's a non-locking switch in one position it starts the generator, then released it returns to neutral position, in the other position it shuts down/stops the generator.

 

One thing I noticed on your drawing was both A and B were providing grounds to their respective relays which already had a ground but needed 12V to energize.

 

Thanks for your help Joe.
On your 1st reply you had 2 questions...
1st answer, The remote I purchased from the internet came from China and has no model number here's a link..http://www.ebay.com/itm/RF-Wireless...091?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cef69e92b
2nd answer, I'm using L1 to load 1 and L2 to load 2, reason this way I can leave the Generator connected to the landline service panel, and once I start the gen. I can then activate A3 to cut thru the gen's power to the service panel.
Your second reply question..
If you look at the 4 channel receiver block I've placed Gnd to all comm blocks for each of the 4 relays. AND Batt to each of the three slave coils, so when the operating relay closes it pushes gnd thru to the respective slave relay.
Thanks for redrawing my sch, yours is much cleaner and easier to read.

 

Ok, I'll revise the drawing according to what you told me ...

what country are you located in? I don't think the power company would like you to parallel your generator to their power ... every ATS switch I've seen disconnects commercial power and applies generator power. paralleling the two sources could land you into trouble.

 

FlyNavy,

I must tell you that you have no protection preventing A and B being energized simultaneously.

Accordingly, you also stated the commercial power is not disconnected when the genereator is running and providing power to the load. This does not allow you to test the generator while commercial power is working normally.

Are the contacts with the switchover relay (FS7/FS8) rated high enough to provide the necessary current you need to operate your essential equipment?

I also must tell you that you are fast approaching the point where this topic will be closed ... mostly for safety concerns when one is working on the main power source.

Attached is the revised drawing

 

In the Great USA!

My generator is in the garage, and aprox. 40' behind our home. The garage is fed from the house thru #4 stranded copper (in pvc) to the garage. Which consists of Li/L2 Common and Isol'd Ground, so as not to cause a ground fault.

This generator is not permanently connected to the Land line, nor is it on a commercial transfer switch. As I'm sure your aware that would be an auto start sequence when power fails, which would be a break before make contact set.

As I said I physically have to operate relay C to bring power onto MY system.
When power fails I physically shut off the main breaker ( to comm. power) before starting the generator and engaging relay C.

I hope this eases your mind somewhat.

 

Joe your redesign CD does nothing to address my original question...

Why does slave relay A not release when pushed a 2nd time?
Without the release of the start portion of this ckt., either the starter or the flywheel would be damaged by the starter motor not backing off the flywheel once the generator is in operation..

 

Disconnect slave A wiring. Use an ohmmeter and make sure the Com/NO contacts close then open. You could have a defective component in the remote receiver.

Can you post a picture of the remote receiver ... or tell us there are four relays in the remote receiver?

Once you verify that the remote receiver is indeed switching, then reconnect the wires. If it is wired as you stated ... there should be 12V on the NO contact when the circuit is de-energized and 0V when it it energized ... and the relay should change state.

On edit ...

I will refer to rev(c) for any remaining troubleshooting hints. Rev(c) and a cutout of an EATON Power distribution file is posted below

 

Here's a link to the receiver w/ the 4 relays mounted.

 

Sorry....Here's a link to the remote receiver w/the 4 relays mounted

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RF-Wireless-...item4cef69e92b

 

Sorry again here's the link....http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...ontroller+4+channel+Module&_sacat=0&_from=R40

 

Did you do the tests I mentioned in the previous posting?

You may have to look at your remote receiver from the solder side of the board to do future measurements. Can you take a picture of the solder side of the board?

 

Here is a copy of the schematic. It is attached.

Just out of curiousity, are you using solid state relays? The markings you have drawn on them (coil voltage and switched voltage) are typically used on solid state relays.
The contacts you have drawn show 24-380 volts ac and you are switching dc. They will latch like a SCR and not drop out.

 

Here are two pics I snagged off ebay.... from his link above

 

Here are two pics I snagged off ebay.... from his link above

The rcvr has mechanical relays, but looking back at his drawing I'm not really sure what he's switching with relays "A" and "B", and those are the relays drawn up like SSR's.

 

To Gerty....
tow of the relays yes are solid state and 1 relay is wire spring.

I'm not having a problem with the wire spring that cuts thru 220vac to the service panel.

It's just the two solid state relays. I just figured it's a dry set of contacts and didn't make a difference? However these two solid state relays don't release when the A relay is pushed a second time.

I'm gonna try using 2 smaller w/s relays and see if that makes a difference, Thanks So much for your input.

 

Let us know how it turns out.

 

Gerty YOUR THE BEST!!!!!

I replaced those 2 SSR's with 2 standard run-of-mill 12vdc Horn relays from the local auto parts store, at half the price............everything works great now!!!!!

Once I removed those SSR's re-connected with the spring relays PERFECTION!!!!

Now I can plug in the generator, knowing it works flawlessly. I won't have to run out to the garage in inclement weather to fire-up the genny.....I can now stay warm and dry this winter.

Again Gerty THANNNNnnnnnnnKS Sooooo much!