Single Phase Double Capacitation Induction Motor, YL90L-4, CT043 Craftex Lathe - Motor Wiring and Control

sparky 1

Joined Nov 3, 2018
755
Leshan Electric Motor YL90L-4
single phase 220 V 60 Hz 1720 RPM 2HP 1.5kW double capacitor start
looks something like Vevor electric motor Model: F145T2S4C

The not so mini lathes need more than 700W. The 48VDC 4300 RPM 2kW like electric bike motor 2.38:1 gear reduction and 220Vac to 48Vd converter.
The newer motor systems improve lathe's ability to quickly adjust speed and torque
https://www.vevor.com/products/rush...e-woodworking-tool-drilling-motorized-machine

Working on understanding the motor wiring diagram.
 
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Thread Starter

elissquires

Joined Dec 26, 2021
27
Weeeeell. Now I'm at a loss. The attached photo is the results of the latest hookup and testing. Wired everything as per the dual capacitor motor diagram. Switched Winding 1 and Winding 2 as the running/starting capacitor with the same results. Maybe the centrifugal switch is not dis-engaging?...
 

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MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,520
Weeeeell. Now I'm at a loss. The attached photo is the results of the latest hookup and testing. Wired everything as per the dual capacitor motor diagram. Switched Winding 1 and Winding 2 as the running/starting capacitor with the same results. Maybe the centrifugal switch is not dis-engaging?...
Are you sure the switch is closed when the motor is stopped?
You can lift the start (large) cap off when it starts to run to simulate the switch.
Also try giving the motor a spin as you apply power and see if it takes off.
 

LesJones

Joined Jan 8, 2017
4,174
I don't understand your notes in post #23. Reading back through the posts I think you are missing a neutral from the input side of the reversing switch. My understanding is that PCB3 is the switched live from the reversing switch. (It is connected to live in forward and reverse positions.) PCB1 and PCB2 are live and neutral whose polarity is switched between forward and reverse.
From your connection labels in post #10 this is how I think you need to connect things.
PCB3 to MBR2
PCB1 to MTR1
PCB2 to MB Blue
MBR1 to MT Black
MTR2 to neutral picked up from output side of the neutral thermal overload heater that connects to the reversing switch. (This is the wire that appears to be missing.)

This is a rough schematic.
301221.jpg

Les.
 

Thread Starter

elissquires

Joined Dec 26, 2021
27
Hi Les. Thanks for looking at this. Looking at your drawing above, this would mean that each winding (and associated capacitors) would have 110v across. Does that make sense? May Dad (an electronic technologist) and his friend (also an electronic technologist - immigrated from China) have been looking at this as well. They are primarily radio and tv techs, so this is a little out of their comfort zone. The friend said the following, " In China, residential hydro is 220V, that is neutral and line is 220V, but in Canada we use two lines to get 220V ". He also sent me the following link (the second attachment is from that article).

https://ee-paper.com/double-capacit...se-double-value-capacitor-asynchronous-motor/

I've also attached the configuration that I tried on the 28th with everything labelled. This is the config that runs the lathe in forward for about 5 seconds before tripping the overload. I'll figure out reversing once I've solved the overload problem.
 

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MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,520
A normal 1ph induction motor has a winding directly connected across the line, i,e. no capacitor, the other winding deemed the start winding can have two capacitors in parallel, the high value one is switched out by the centrifugal switch, the other is left permanently connected, if your windings are equal, they can both perform the job of start or run.

PS edited, capacitors should be in parallel.
 
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LesJones

Joined Jan 8, 2017
4,174
If you had connected your motor as in either of the diagrams in post #26 it should have worked. I has assumed that you were located somewhere in Europe where there is 220 - 240 volts between neutral and live. we don't have the final distribution transformer with the center tap being neutral and two live wires 180 degrees out of phase with each other. Our single phase supply is one phase of a three phase supply. It is helpful if you if you give some idea of your location in your profile. For your location in Canada change my L & N notation to L1 and L2.
I agree with Max's suspicion in post #24 that the centrifugal switch may not be opening when the motor is up to speed and that it would be worth adding a switch in series with the centrifugal switch so you can try manually breaking the circuit to the 150 uF capacitor.

Les.
 

Thread Starter

elissquires

Joined Dec 26, 2021
27
Thanks Max and Les. I think that you're right. The centrifugal switch is not working. I'm going to take the motor apart and check it out. I'm way more comfortable with the mechanical stuff.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,520
Thanks Max and Les. I think that you're right. The centrifugal switch is not working. I'm going to take the motor apart and check it out. I'm way more comfortable with the mechanical stuff.
I did not see whether you actually checked to see if the centrifugal switch was closed initially?
This is often one reason for no start and high initial current, they tend to go open, rather than permanently closed.
 

Thread Starter

elissquires

Joined Dec 26, 2021
27
I am totally stumped. Stripped, cleaned and reassembled the motor. Switch works perfectly. Starting capacitor is around 17 micro farads high (167) but other than that, all was exactly as advertised. Hooked up as per photo DSC_0088. Capacitor circuit powered by 220v across PC-B1 and PC-B2 (activated in fwd and rev). Winding 1 (RB) across PC-B1 and PC-B3 (fwd only). Winding 2 (RR) across PC-B2 and PC-B3 (rev only). Basically the capacitor circuit is hooked up in fwd and rev, Winding 1 in forward, and Winding 2 in reverse. Only 1 winding is powered at a time, along with the capacitor circuit. Starts perfectly in fwd and rev and then trips after 5 seconds of running. I'm pretty close to just giving up and finding another motor.
 

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Thread Starter

elissquires

Joined Dec 26, 2021
27
I don't have a way to measure the RPM of the motor, but what I can say is that it behaves in exactly the same way as when I wired it previously as per the diagram in, "Lathe Motor Wiring - 28 Dec Config.jpg". Both windings were powered in that config, but there was no difference in behaviour.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,520
Both windings Have to be power, albeit, one winding via the start/run capacitors.
IOW there has to be continuous current in both windings for the motor to run.
 

LesJones

Joined Jan 8, 2017
4,174
I am finding it very confusing that you are using two different labeling conventions for the winding ends.
you started with
MT-R1
MB-R1
MT-R2
MB-R2
you then changed to
MT-RB
MB-RB
MT-RR
MB-RR

This is my interpretation of the last picture in post #32
010122.jpgYou have the capacitors directly between L1 and L2. (Via the polarity switching in the control box.)
You have not picked off the the unswitched Neutral that comes from the connection between the output of the neutral thermal trip heater to the input of the reversing switch. (As I told you to do in post #25) (Consider neutral as L2 and L as L1 in your wiring system.) As a result you can't supply one winding with fixed polarity. If you have not done that then you can't have wired it as in the schematic in post #25.

Les.
 

Thread Starter

elissquires

Joined Dec 26, 2021
27
You're right Les, I did change the nomenclature as you said. As well, I haven't added the extra wire. The reason that I haven't done that yet is because this machine and motor are in factory configuration. There should be a way to wire it with factory supplied power/control wires. In the attached photo, I further translated my RR and RB nomenclature to the motor plate. I then wired the motor and power/control wires exactly as depicted on the left side of the plate. Lathe started in reverse (with a little help spinning the chuck, ran for a few seconds, and then tripped the 8.5 A overload. I ignored the somewhat confusing right side of the plate (reverse direction). I've got a query in to the tech department of Busy Bee Tools, so we'll see what that turns up.
 

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Thread Starter

elissquires

Joined Dec 26, 2021
27
First drawing shows power/control wires and relationships with motor wires and relationships. Second drawing shows configuration that resulted in the motor working forward and reverse for a few seconds before tripping the 8.5A overload.
 

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LesJones

Joined Jan 8, 2017
4,174
In your schematic in post #37 you have the windings connected in series with the capacitors in parallel with one winding.
With just the three wires from the control box it is NOT possible for the reversing switch to work. There is no way to reverse the polarity to one winding an keep the polarity the same on the other winding. (In this sentence when I say "winding" it includes the capacitors and centrifugal switch in series with one of the windings.)

Les.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,520
I would not bother with the reversing arrangement for the moment, concentrate on wiring it up for one direction correctly, Once working, move on to the reversing sequence.
IOW wire directly to either FWD or REV condition.
.
 
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